Headers, worth it?
#1
Headers, worth it?
I was reading the Green Giant thread and saw quite a few posts pertaining to headers and being against them. I didnt want to hijack that thread so I will ask my questions here.
I know there was talk about headers leaking and that is very well known for them, but I thought about cutting off the flange and welding up a flowmaster ball flange for a better seal over the old paper gaskets. So for me leaks isnt going to be that big of a deal.
The thing that has me concerned is the fit, I was looking at the hooker super comps as full length headers from my research over the years are known to improve low rpm power, which a truck with 2.75:1 gears out back with 31" tires, low rpm power is really needed.
I just wanted to hear from people with different brand of headers and what they noticed was issues with them. I know I dont want my exhaust below the frame rail, when I gutted my exhaust and straight piped it to a thrush glasspack I tucked the pipe up above the bottom of the frame rail so its not viewable from a distance. I wouldnt want headers that had the collector below the frame rails let alone low enough to be snagged if going off road.
I know there was talk about headers leaking and that is very well known for them, but I thought about cutting off the flange and welding up a flowmaster ball flange for a better seal over the old paper gaskets. So for me leaks isnt going to be that big of a deal.
The thing that has me concerned is the fit, I was looking at the hooker super comps as full length headers from my research over the years are known to improve low rpm power, which a truck with 2.75:1 gears out back with 31" tires, low rpm power is really needed.
I just wanted to hear from people with different brand of headers and what they noticed was issues with them. I know I dont want my exhaust below the frame rail, when I gutted my exhaust and straight piped it to a thrush glasspack I tucked the pipe up above the bottom of the frame rail so its not viewable from a distance. I wouldnt want headers that had the collector below the frame rails let alone low enough to be snagged if going off road.
#2
I don't know if it is proper terminology or not, but I always refer to the flange as the part the connects to the head. Sort of like phalanges meaning fingers or toes in medical terms. Then the collector is where they all come together to go into the exhaust pipe. Using that reference, the flange is where the leaks occur up by the heads because the bolts back off. They sell parts that are supposed to stop that from happening too. However, they do burn out the collector gasket too. Some of the header companies like Headman make ball collectors on their headers, but that wont keep them from leaking at the flange which connect to the heads.
#3
#4
I had headers on a truck once. That broke me of ever wanting to do it again.
Between fitment issues and starter problems that required the pass header to be removed in order to drop the starter, they weren't worth the trouble. Then there were the leaks that popped up frequently.
30 years later, and I still hate those headers.......
Between fitment issues and starter problems that required the pass header to be removed in order to drop the starter, they weren't worth the trouble. Then there were the leaks that popped up frequently.
30 years later, and I still hate those headers.......
#5
Stay away from Hooker long tubes on these trucks. In fact, stay away from long tubes period on these trucks! if I were to ever do it over again. I'd have gone shorties all the way. Never had any starter problems with mine though, as there's like 6-8" of clearance. Either shorties or manifolds. Only reason I went to headers is because my manifolds were junk. If you want a real power gainer, change the gears in the rear differential.
#6
#7
Thanks for the responses, looks like I will be sticking with exhaust manifolds, I checked on summit and Jegs but didnt see any shorty headers listed for theses trucks.
I also dont think shorties would be much of a improvement over cast iron manifolds.
I do know I will be most likely going with aftermarket heads with better breathing and either a oem ford 4bbl intake and a motorcraft 4bbl carb, or a edelbrock performer manifold with a edelbrock 600cfm 4bbl. All this would be topped off with a RV/Truck cam and if aluminum heads are used I will most likely bump compression up to between 9:1 to 9.5:1.
So I was looking at headers to really complete the package. I also might be changing the rear end gearing so I will be back at 2.75:1 with 31" tires. More like 2.50:1 now.
But anyways I had my questions answered though, I didnt know the headers on theses trucks stuck that far below the frame rails.
I also dont think shorties would be much of a improvement over cast iron manifolds.
I do know I will be most likely going with aftermarket heads with better breathing and either a oem ford 4bbl intake and a motorcraft 4bbl carb, or a edelbrock performer manifold with a edelbrock 600cfm 4bbl. All this would be topped off with a RV/Truck cam and if aluminum heads are used I will most likely bump compression up to between 9:1 to 9.5:1.
So I was looking at headers to really complete the package. I also might be changing the rear end gearing so I will be back at 2.75:1 with 31" tires. More like 2.50:1 now.
But anyways I had my questions answered though, I didnt know the headers on theses trucks stuck that far below the frame rails.
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#8
#9
They work that much better? I know Edelbrock carbs tend to be a little leaner than Holley`s so they tend to get better fuel mileage but if Summit`s carb is better fuel wise than Edelbrock I will have to keep that in mind.
#10
All of the tuning parts are standard Holley. It's actually a remake of the Holley 4010, with all of the issues they had fixed. They make this, one just like it but a 750, and a 750 DP manual choke. The annular boosters help with throttle response a lot. Holley makes these with Summit's name on them. Not to mention they are priced a lot cheaper than an Edelbrock.
#11
#12
I have Flowtech long tubes on my 400, but since you have a 302, you could get away with Mustang shorties. Then you could build off those. There is lots of room for short headers. Mine is a street/tow rig, so I am not worried about snagging off road. I only worry about speed bumps, but they only hang down 1/2-3/4" below the trans pan on mine.
#13
I posted in that original thread your talking about - in regards to headers. Not going to re-list all my thoughts on the matter, but in summary.... Headman Headers (long tubes) on 86' 460 - put them on without major issues, sure a little tricky to wiggle in there, but not life altering. Fitment and sound are great! I do recommend locking header bolts on any header install. They solve the leaking issue once and for all. I don't have them on in the picture below, but have them now.
-BlueBruiser
-BlueBruiser
#15
I have Flowtech long tubes on my 400, but since you have a 302, you could get away with Mustang shorties. Then you could build off those. There is lots of room for short headers. Mine is a street/tow rig, so I am not worried about snagging off road. I only worry about speed bumps, but they only hang down 1/2-3/4" below the trans pan on mine.