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  #16  
Old 06-17-2014, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordpride View Post
Do you have any mods?

For stock to basic mods I like the LUK clutch with SMF
Quote:
Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch View Post
IIRC, it should be around 85 ft lbs on the flywheel and 25 ft lbs on the pressure plate and use loctite on all the flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

Torquing the flywheel bolts is not as important as the pressure plate bolts. Good and tight on the flywheel is fine. The pressure plate bolts all need to be exactly the same torque.

For future reference, my choice for a stock replacement clutch is the LUK SMF kit.
I'll be the third to put my vote down for the LUK kit. I put one in my truck to replace the clutch kit that came apart and I really like the way the LUK kit has been working so far.

I'd also recommend the SMF conversion. Rock Auto is a good place to source the parts if you can afford to wait a few days.
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2014, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
I'll be the third to put my vote down for the LUK kit. I put one in my truck to replace the clutch kit that came apart and I really like the way the LUK kit has been working so far.

I'd also recommend the SMF conversion. Rock Auto is a good place to source the parts if you can afford to wait a few days.
Allready bought the napa smf, just have to find the time to install it. Tranny is on the ground, so all I have to do is reassemble.

Question? While I have it down, should I put in an aftermarket down pipe?
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  #18  
Old 06-17-2014, 11:03 AM
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You don't have to do the pipe now. But it would be a good time to bend the seam out of the way.
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  #19  
Old 06-17-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordpride View Post
You don't have to do the pipe now. But it would be a good time to bend the seam out of the way.
can I get the stock pipe out and the new one in, with the transmission in? Seemed like it wouldn't come out for me, until I dropped the tranny? Or is that because of the seam?
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  #20  
Old 06-17-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royson12 View Post
can I get the stock pipe out and the new one in, with the transmission in? Seemed like it wouldn't come out for me, until I dropped the tranny? Or is that because of the seam?
You will have to cut the top section off the stock pipe to get it out, but yes you can get it out with the transmission in place.

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  #21  
Old 06-17-2014, 02:29 PM
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If I go with a complete exaust system, will it still pass inspection with no cat? Thinking about a complete turbo back 4" with a muffler. I don't like a lot of racket. What kind of benifits would I see from changing my exaust out? Any brand suggestions? Supplier suggestions?
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  #22  
Old 06-17-2014, 02:54 PM
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Just from changing the exhaust, you won't notice a ton of difference. Slightly better response, maybe a touch more boost, and slightly cooler EGTs. Exhaust and intake modifications are just things that need to be done in order to support more power later such as tuning, larger fuel injectors, larger turbos, etc.

A good Diamond Eye 4" system wouldn't be a terrible idea. While you're looking at upgrading things, you should look into the 6637 air filter setup from Riff Raff. It's cheap enough and gets rid of the junky stock air box.
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  #23  
Old 06-17-2014, 03:47 PM
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Also check for up pipe leaks while the trans is out.
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  #24  
Old 06-18-2014, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FI460 View Post
Also check for up pipe leaks while the trans is out.
+1 on this ^^

Check those up-pipes over thoroughly while the transmission is out. If there is soot around the joints, it will be TONS easier to fix them while the trans is out than to do it later on. I suggest bellowed up-pipes as a fix, but you can get away with just replacing the seals as well.
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2014, 08:22 AM
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ok, got trans back in! It was the LUK kit that napa carries. It said on the paperwork inside the box that was branded NAPA. Every thing is back together, but I have one problem. My clutch almost hits the floor, before it feels like it releases? Dumb question, should I have but that little plastic cup back on the end of the rod? The one that comes on the shipping strap, originally? Or, do I just need to bleed the system somehow?
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  #26  
Old 06-27-2014, 08:41 AM
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When you pulled the slave off the transmission did you let the rod push its way out of the slave cylinder? If you did then, you'll need to bleed both the master and the slave, which can be a real pain. That's my best guess. When I did mine, I had been warned not to let the rod come out of the slave so I made a little tool to hold the end of the rod and then zip tied it to the slave cylinder bracket to hold everything together.
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  #27  
Old 06-27-2014, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
When you pulled the slave off the transmission did you let the rod push its way out of the slave cylinder? If you did then, you'll need to bleed both the master and the slave, which can be a real pain. That's my best guess. When I did mine, I had been warned not to let the rod come out of the slave so I made a little tool to hold the end of the rod and then zip tied it to the slave cylinder bracket to hold everything together.
I did not know that! Ha! I had to push the rod all the way back in to get it behind the clutch lever. How can I bleed it? just like brakes? pump, loosen line, repeat?
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  #28  
Old 06-27-2014, 08:56 AM
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That's one way to do it (if your slave has a bleeder screw on it -- some don't). The other thing you can do (whether you have the bleeder screw or not) is to have someone help you bleed it. What you want to do is to remove the cap from the clutch reservoir and then have someone watch in the res while you very slowly push in on the clutch fork (compressing the slave cylinder) and your helper watches for bubbles coming up into the res. Do that until you don't get any more bubbles and you should be good to go.
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  #29  
Old 06-27-2014, 09:13 AM
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The stock replacement LUK kit is good.



DIY, I've never had to bleed the slave from pulling it and letting it release.

if yours is getting air in it from that, it means its got a leak inside.
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  #30  
Old 06-27-2014, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
That's one way to do it (if your slave has a bleeder screw on it -- some don't). The other thing you can do (whether you have the bleeder screw or not) is to have someone help you bleed it. What you want to do is to remove the cap from the clutch reservoir and then have someone watch in the res while you very slowly push in on the clutch fork (compressing the slave cylinder) and your helper watches for bubbles coming up into the res. Do that until you don't get any more bubbles and you should be good to go.
ill give that a try! Thanks
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:17 AM
 
 
 
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