well got that whole distro/ mis fire issues resolved i threw in the towl and took it to a shop.

new issues is as follows. i replaced the starter and now the starter sticks when it actually starts up( meaning after the truck it running i still hear the starter whining away as if trying trying to start) and secondly now my battery amp light is coming on and i put it on a battery tester and it says no charge from alt. are these 2 related( lemme add i did check the connecting to the al and it was all greena and corded in the plug i grabbed a soft brush and clean all the gunk out...need new cables?)


now with a discription of the issues i can assure you the starter is installed properly but ive been told to throw a a washer or two on the mounting bolts and that will fix it from sticking. or getting a shim kit( and the quickly told fords dont have shims kits) and for the alt "just buy anew one" thats a complete fesable option but i dont wanna throw money at it and hope it sticks and waste money on a alt if i could have just retruned a defective starter( or added a washer or 2)

as alwasy thanks in advance guys. oh and happy fathers day to all the other dads out there

 

the starter relay, mounted on the passenger side fender, is known to fail in the "on" position. it's less likely that the starter itself is refusing to disengage. these relays are also known to be faulty right out of the box, so if you buy one, don't get the cheapest one there is.

i don't understand what you have done with the "battery tester" ... check the battery voltage at rest (engine off), should be over 12 volts, then again with the engine running ... you should get a reading somewhere around 14 volts with engine running.

 

im sorry i should have mentioned that i also just replaced(as in 3 days ago) the stater relay on the sidewall.

 

Fairly simple circuit to troubleshoot:

(1) Use test light on "S" terminal of solenoid ---observe light while turning ignition switch on / off ..............if light remains on when switch is turned off you have a ignition switch, other sw (neutral safety) or wiring short.....

(2) If (1) tests ok............then hook test lamp to the large starter side of solenoid to observe solenoid windings/plunger operation..........light on only when voltage applied to "S" terminal...........if the light stays on you have a failure meaning the "plunger" inside the solenoid is hanging and allowing voltage to pass thru the circuit after 12v is removed from the "S" terminal........

 

Issues resolved. New alternator.

After getting home and pulling the connections on the alt both were corroded so I bit the bhai bullet and went ahead and grabbed a new one installed and both the battery light as well as the over spinning of the starter have been resolved. Thanks everyone for all the help .