I would like to replace all the u joints on both front shaft and rear. Is this a job that I could do at home or is there some specialized equipment that is needed. I gone to 3 shops and have been told that the front shaft has to be done by a driveshaft specialist. Any info would be appreciated

 

Hmm I did the front driveshaft myself and I'm no specialist. Unfortunately it was a few years ago and I don't have any pics. A good bench vice and the right size sockets and you can press them out. The center one is kinda tricky cause it's a double u-joint but definitely doable. I think there's a ball and spring or some such between the two crosses. I got them from O'Reillys and they were included. If you're used to figuring stuff out it shouldn't be too hard...

 

The double cardon joint can be a problem. I had to replace my driveshaft because of it. But mine was worn beyond repair. The u joints are simple with basic tools but pull it apart and inspect the ball socket before you replace the joints. If the socket is worn the joint needs to be replaced. Most driveline shops can do it. I found a new driveshaft cheaper at a shop in town than it would cost to replace the worn parts

 

Just to chime in, I am mechanical and have fought with an unnerving vibration since I bought my truck 13 years ago. 99 late used 1 owner.

I replaced and replaced and did it all myself every time with a self reach around.

The last time.......I had a driveline company do it (I snowplow). They inspected and tested everything. What they found, was my rear pinion yoke was worn out of spec and even tho I went high dollar every interval on self repairs. (they are easy with the right tools). That yoke was just a hair out of tolerance and it would be fine for a couple thou miles and start wobbling like a puppy ****ting razor blades. The joint was fine, it would just slide transversely an 1/8th inch. They tried to pean and make the yoke work but new yoke served the cause and I would never have found a decade old *** rattle without taking it to them. They found me a used yoke for 72 bucks. I have all zerked joints as I am a regular gun pumper. Total bill from that shop was 212.00

I can go down the road at 10 or 80 with a cold busch light in my drink thrower and never foam up.

Take it in! But be there to see the exploit.

my bits.

Denny

 

The double joint is the main problem. On 4x4 I get clinking noise from the joint. I will try and post a pic

 

I took mine to a driveline shop and they let me watch the process - bringing a jar of peanut butter pretzels to share didn't hurt. There was a lot of pressing going on, to get the old crusty hardware apart. Even if you replace everything, you have no way to true the assembly - mine was off-balance on both ends, and had a 20-thousandths bend on the rear shaft.

 

Thanks everyone . I appreciate all the info. I found a very good 'how to' on this site. I just did a search for cardan joint. With all your input and the how to I think I will attempt to do it my self. I'll keep u posted .

 

Just as a reminder, from the posts sent from members I know that have the wherewithal to DIY............

Take it in and just be happy.

Other than the plant and the trans, trying to true up a problem like this on your back with hand tools could be a little overwhelming. Drivelines are critical to the performance of..and longevity of other components.

Last word of advise, take it to the guys that can spin it up in the shop.

If you nail this on your own, please share.

Denny

 

If you do this work with all four wheels on the ground, MAKE SURE to USE WHEEL CHOCKS so you can BE SAFE while you're removing drive line components!!

You do NOT want the tee-shirt that comes with the mistake of forgetting!!

 

Update, just to let y'all know, I removed all the u joints and when I disassembled the double joint everything came out in pieces so I could not tell how to put back together, no problem will figure it out. I bought all the parts from napa everything looked right except the double joint bearing. Napa swore I had all the right parts. As I looked it over the napa parts and the few pieces I had did not look right. So I took to a driveshaft shop and sure enough the the double joint bearing from napa was not even close. So I decided to let the pros handle it. Cost me 120.00. I would of like to do it my self but I'm glad it will be done right and not waste my time. Thanks for all the advise. Gilbert

 

Good thinking. When you watch the guys in the driveline shop, you realize they are the best ones to do the job. They got the tools and the right price. They also told me that the rubber balancer on the back driveshaft is very problematic due to rubber rot. They replaced that last piece of the shaft eliminating the balancer for an extra $50. Very interesting to watch them balance the whole thing. I got a good education in ring and pinion gears watching them rebuild rock truck rear ends. It's WORTH going to a good driveline shop.