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1975 f100 7.5L 460 start issue!!

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Old 06-09-2014, 08:04 PM
Dammnicetruck Dammnicetruck is offline
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1975 f100 7.5L 460 start issue!!

Got a 1975 f100 7.5L with a 6 inch lift fun truck to drive...when it starts. In the morning (when it's cooled off) I can start it up fine and drive it to work. Usually, I can even start it after work because again the engine cooled off. However if I go to the gas station turn it off and try to start it after that it won't! Just makes a little grunting noise (just barely turning over) and then quits, turn the key again a little grunting then quits. Replaced the alternator battery and starter and primed the carborator after I had to wait a couple weeks for all those parts to come in. After putting in those 3 parts and pouring some gas in the carb. It started right up, drove around town for awhile then came back home and I let it sit for a couple minutes with out shutting it off but when I finally did turn it off, I tried to start it again after another 5 minutes and there it was..the dreaded little grunting noise. I think it may be a timing issue with the distributor. It does wobble a little and feels more loose then normal and I know that means it could be worn out but I'm not to familiar with that part. Does anybody know why it grunts like that and won't start after it's warmed up?
P.s. I'm only 18 and kinda new at this so any suggestions will help!
Thank you for reading if you got this far like I said any reply will help!
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:06 PM
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I assume when you say "grunting noise" that it will not turn over? If so, that sounds like an over heated starter. How is your exhaust routed? If it does turn over, that could be a number of things from vapor lock to too much initial timing.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by march View Post
I assume when you say "grunting noise" that it will not turn over? If so, that sounds like an over heated starter. How is your exhaust routed? If it does turn over, that could be a number of things from vapor lock to too much initial timing.
I have agree with this.
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:19 AM
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It's also possible that your carb is draining excess fuel into the engine when it's warm. Once all of this fuel drains it makes the engine difficult to turn over. If it sits for a while, the fuel evaporates and it's easy to start again.
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:10 PM
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what carb is on the motor ? Is there still an egr plate between the carb and intake? and is there some sort of thermal break gasket between the carb and whatever is underneath ? 460's are notorious for heat soak issues after you turn the motor off causing fuel to boil in fuel bowls and with a worn needles and seats this fuel ends up sitting in the intake creating a flooding condition .. Solution thermal break gaskets and or 1" phenolic spacer ..
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:42 PM
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I'm Having The Same Issue - 1975 F250 460

I don't have 1000 miles yet on this truck after putting it back on the road 3 years ago. Let me list the particulars and then you all can let me know where I went wrong;

Engine had a 4350 Motorcraft Spreadbore, went bad, friend recommended Holly Squarebore;

I bought the Spreadbore-Squarebore adapter from Summit Racing, thing was as thick a paver brick, had machine shop mill it down to half of its thickness;

Holley carb and this adapter plate allows the truck to start perfectly, idles nice, acceleration is a dream;

When I run it up to where the t-stat opens, you can forget about starting this truck a second time in one day. Just as the previous poster stated, it acts as though the battery is almost near dead, yet the battery is a Group-31 Truck-Tractor battery, starter is new with only 5 starts on it after install.

I have set the timing to 14 BTDC, I have blocked off the exhaust ports that travel through the intake to provide heat to the bottom of the carb because of boiling the gas out, I have only the Summit Racing adapter between the carb and the intake, there are no intake leaks, no gas running back to the tank (last filter is see-through so I can see the gas remaining there), I am at my wits end. I cannot think of anything more to do except to possibly purchase some godzilla-like starter that could probably move the truck down the road at 45 just on its own.

Anyone else ever figure out what could cause this?
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:11 PM
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This is for both of you that are having this problem - when truck won't turn over, pull the ignition coil wire out of the distributor and ground it. If this will allow the engine to turn over normally (it's not going to start), then you have too much initial timing advance in it.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:53 PM
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I have an auxiliary starter button that I can use as there is no one here to help me, i.e; sit in the truck and turn the key for me etc, so since the engine is now cold, and I go out there and get it up to t-stat-opening temp, I should then be using this button to turn the truck over while I perform the task as you have stated, but also might adjust the distributor while it's warm to see if it will actually turn over?

I'm willing to try anything, as I have far too much money invested in this truck now to not be able to drive it.
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Old 06-11-2015, 10:41 PM
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I think this is problematic for this motor. I've had several 429/460 that have done this exact thing to me. Its a little embarrassing when your sweet machine won't want to start back up until its cooled off a bit.


It is the timing and on a hot motor it can be stubborn as heck to want to start or not even turn over. You can back off the initial timing at the expense of loosing the optimal tune but you can also try upgrading your starter wire to some heavy welding cable and ensure your ground connections are real clean. It just wanting to draw a lot of amps. The over sized starter wire will help some but the main problem is with the timing. I am assuming you do have a good battery and full charge and there are no other issues than what you've described. Its easy enough to try and put back if it does not work. Retard timing about 2 degrees, try it, then go a bit more if you need to. You're full timing might suffer a little but then that can be corrected with re-curving.

The best fix is a re-curved distributor.
Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index
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