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First Project Truck 1987 F350

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  #16  
Old 06-10-2014, 11:49 AM
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not sure on the 87 460, but the earlier ones did not have electric fuel pumps. just a mechanical pump on the side of the engine.
 
  #17  
Old 06-10-2014, 11:56 AM
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correct Tom. You have the lift pump in each tank which lifts the fuel and sends it to the mechanical pump which sends it into the engine.

I am pretty sure the lift pumps are electric pumps.
Trav
 
  #18  
Old 06-10-2014, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Moundainner
Lastly, Whats a good air intake system for the 460? My stock air cleaner assembly didn't come with all the pieces and I would rather just purchase a new one. Are there any downsides to not having the cold start actuator on the snorkel/air intake? Thanks, Adam
If you can find all of the parts you don't have at a JY, you will be best off having the stock intake with a "clean filter." You could put a K&N in and it will flow better, BUT, you have to keep it clean. I wash mine at least every oil change, but I drive a lot of gravel. The stock system works very well as long as the ribbed hose from the snorkel to the fender is intact. This pulls cooler air from outside the engine bay. I would recommend throwing a regular filter in, blowing it out at least every 3k, and replacing it about every 10k for as cheap as they are. This system will flow plenty even for a 650, and a performer intake.

Not having the actuator won't hurt, unless you live where I do. Under 40 degrees F, it just wont warm up as fast.
 
  #19  
Old 06-10-2014, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by cbakker
If you can find all of the parts you don't have at a JY, you will be best off having the stock intake with a "clean filter." You could put a K&N in and it will flow better, BUT, you have to keep it clean. I wash mine at least every oil change, but I drive a lot of gravel. The stock system works very well as long as the ribbed hose from the snorkel to the fender is intact. This pulls cooler air from outside the engine bay. I would recommend throwing a regular filter in, blowing it out at least every 3k, and replacing it about every 10k for as cheap as they are. This system will flow plenty even for a 650, and a performer intake.

Not having the actuator won't hurt, unless you live where I do. Under 40 degrees F, it just wont warm up as fast.
My system only came with the lower pan and the snorkel for the intake, however its in quite rough shape and I'm missing the top cover and the stud. It sat in the bed of the truck for 8 years
Where in MN are you? I go to school in Mankato
Yea those winter starts wont be fun...
 
  #20  
Old 06-10-2014, 06:55 PM
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So on the tanks I have a sender unit in each, and then a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the motor? I haven't had time to look. I'm debating which route to go, whether to pull the tanks and clean them thoroughly or just purchase new ones. I wish gas tanks were cheaper lol
 
  #21  
Old 06-10-2014, 07:00 PM
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That's part of why I got rid of the stock intake on mine. The accordion section was hangin on by a thread. I could literally put my fist through one side of it. On my dads 79 460 he had a 4 barrel Holley 750 that was modified to dump more fuel at lower rpm. Pair that with an alluminum intake manifold and you've got a beast
 
  #22  
Old 06-10-2014, 08:47 PM
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Good looking truck and a heck of a deal too.
 
  #23  
Old 06-11-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Moundainner
So on the tanks I have a sender unit in each, and then a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the motor? I haven't had time to look. I'm debating which route to go, whether to pull the tanks and clean them thoroughly or just purchase new ones. I wish gas tanks were cheaper lol
Correct.

Pulling the tanks and looking at them will determine weather it is a good idea to buy ones or clean it. Don't turn down junkyards you may be able to get some in great shape there.
Trav
 
  #24  
Old 06-11-2014, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Moundainner
My system only came with the lower pan and the snorkel for the intake, however its in quite rough shape and I'm missing the top cover and the stud. It sat in the bed of the truck for 8 years
Where in MN are you? I go to school in Mankato
Yea those winter starts wont be fun...
I would still hit up the JY and try to find that stuff for the reasons I listed before.

I'm an 1 1/2 hours northwest of Kato in Renville. If you can find an intake with a working actuator you will be better off in the winter. The "accordion" hose is easily replaceable if you are the least bit handy, and mildly resourceful.

Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
Pulling the tanks and looking at them will determine weather it is a good idea to buy ones or clean it. Don't turn down junkyards you may be able to get some in great shape there.
Trav
Agreed, as I have used a couple JY tanks in the past with no issues.
 
  #25  
Old 06-11-2014, 12:39 PM
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I got the front and rear tanks for my 88 F150 for free at the local junkyard (I know the guy) and they are in great shape.

I still have been looking for a rear for my dad's 89 F250.
Trav
 
  #26  
Old 06-12-2014, 04:55 AM
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Just for the shear aggravation factor I would spend $100 for each tank NEW and be done
 
  #27  
Old 06-15-2014, 08:06 PM
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Well guys I finally got around to working on the truck, been packing in lots of hours at work. I got around to pulling the side mounted tank for now, so I have at least 1 tank to drive around on. I guess the fuel sender in the tank seems to be working because when I disconnected the lines there was fuel pressure in them . However, It doesn't seem that they have been replaced since the vehicle was new.



The tank seemed to be solid. Rocking the typical surface rust and crumblies all over the top. After pumping out all the bad gas inside I found some deposits and dirt that I rinsed and pumped out. So I'm thinking of keeping the tank for now.



Today I picked up new gas tank straps, oil, filter and a Haynes manual for the truck. Asking the parts guy to poke around in the computer I wanted to see the pricing for a sender assembly in the tank, however the issue I ran into is that all of the ones they carried were for 4 prong plugs on the top
Does anyone suggest a good brand to replace it with? Or should I keep the the motto "Dont fix it if it aint broke"?

Thanks
 
  #28  
Old 06-15-2014, 08:18 PM
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Really? You are going to put that rusty tank back in?!?
 
  #29  
Old 06-15-2014, 09:04 PM
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Your truck has a mechanical pump only, the 4 pin sending units are for e-pump equipped trucks. The proper ones for a mech pump truck may be made of unobtanium at this point.
You could add a rubber hose to replace the pump and swap your plug to a 4 pin one and just use the sender wiring alone if push comes to shove.
That tank looks quite crusty around the seam, it isn't a matter of if it leaks at this point, it will be a matter of when.
 
  #30  
Old 06-16-2014, 05:59 PM
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Looking at prices, its only about 115$ for a new tank so I'm going to go with that. I haven't pulled the assembly out yet. So basically the unit inside the tank is just a float with the fuel lever sensor in it and a pickup tube? I figured there were sending units in each tank that fed the mechanical pump, but It seems to just solely be the mechanical pump moving the fuel.
 


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