What makes BTS and Monster Trannies Special?
#1
06-06-2014, 06:55 PM
#2
06-06-2014, 08:26 PM
Fleet Owner
#3
06-06-2014, 09:27 PM
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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im seeing a 2 year warranty.
"Brian's Truck Shop guarantees the highest quality standards for custom-built E40D, 4R100, and 5R110 Ford transmissions for two years."
E4OD | 4R100 | 5R110 Ford Diesel Powerstroke Transmissions
you need to be careful though.not everyone needs a $5,000 transmission.a lot of those hard parts installed would be overkill for a stock first gen psd and an average turbo kited idi.he builds those top end trans to withstand "real" engines with hundreds and hundreds of hp and ft lbs of torque.
i found a good local builder who has been remaning the e40d's (and helped transgo study different mods for their kits over the years) for a real long time.he built me one the same way he builds the e40d/4r100's for the 2nd gen psd trucks who haul,tow,plow heavy around here and they hold up great.
he did the good stuff too.it's not like mine was cheap lol.mine still set me back over 3k installed.
"Brian's Truck Shop guarantees the highest quality standards for custom-built E40D, 4R100, and 5R110 Ford transmissions for two years."
E4OD | 4R100 | 5R110 Ford Diesel Powerstroke Transmissions
you need to be careful though.not everyone needs a $5,000 transmission.a lot of those hard parts installed would be overkill for a stock first gen psd and an average turbo kited idi.he builds those top end trans to withstand "real" engines with hundreds and hundreds of hp and ft lbs of torque.
i found a good local builder who has been remaning the e40d's (and helped transgo study different mods for their kits over the years) for a real long time.he built me one the same way he builds the e40d/4r100's for the 2nd gen psd trucks who haul,tow,plow heavy around here and they hold up great.
he did the good stuff too.it's not like mine was cheap lol.mine still set me back over 3k installed.
#4
06-06-2014, 09:35 PM
#5
06-06-2014, 09:55 PM
Cool. I knew about the steel planetaries, but not about his warranty. I might be making a phone call. Thanks Brad.
#6
06-06-2014, 10:28 PM
I have a hard time condoning a $5k price for any transmission. Even though I'm sure they are built well and with quality parts, I have rebuilt and modified my own E4OD to handle copious amounts of torque and has for quite some time now. About 60K miles to be exact nearly all of it towing 12,000 lbs. with 3.55 gears and a modified 7.3L. I haven't had a single problem since.
It all starts with a little research and some time spent making a plan. Most will say the E4OD is a problematic transmission plagued with cooling, slippage and shifting issues. This may be true in most cases, but the fact of the matter is, everything can be made better with a little planning and some effort. Lets focus on these problems one at a time, shall we?
Cooling
One day while trying to figure out why my truck's transmission was failing, I decided to install a glowshift transmission temp gauge. I installed the sensor into the test port of the side of the transmission and went for a drive. What I found next was insane. After about three miles of 45 mph driving, the temp climbed to 230 degrees. I then decided to push it a bit and see what I could get it up to, since a rebuild was imminent. Within blocks of heavy acceleration, the gauge pegged at 300 degrees. This was alarming. I can remember thinking to myself "No wonder why so many people had problems with this thing. It's like it was designed to fail, right out of the gate". I know what you're thinking, I have a blockage of some sort or damage. This is not the case. The radiator was about 3 months old, filled with fleet charge and the aux cooler had already been replaced with a hayden unit that I currently am no longer using.
The E4OD has a very poor, undersized, inadequate cooling system consisting of a small 5/16" line that has a restrictive 90 degree bend, connected to a very efficient oil to water cooler incorporated into the radiator, though another too thin 5/16" line into a cooler that looks to be more at home connected to a power steering pump and back to the transmission via yet another sorry 5/16" line though a 5/16" check valve and into the pan. This would be the primary cause for transmission failure in my eyes. The maximum temperature the E4OD should see is somewhere around 225-230F. Much more than that and you can half life your fluid, after that (250-275) you're looking at torque converter clutch friction material disbonding and finally to clutch failure. So, keeping this in mind, and through multiple hours of searching websites and forums and TSBs, I found a little blurb in a Jasper warranty booklet that said that "Your re-manufactured Jasper E4OD transmission's warranty will become void if transmission cooling kit ######## is not installed prior to use." I became curious as to what kit this kit contained and the reasoning behind it. As I understand, the diameter of the fittings, lines and check valve are inadequate for use in a heavy duty transmission, and an upgrade is a necessity. Since this kit comes at a price to the tune of $150, I began my search elsewhere. As it turns out, the 3/8" check-valve at the rear of the transmission is a discontinued part and can only be had at specialty stores. I found it, to the tune of $45 and made a flare fitting to fit 3/8" high pressure rubber hose. I then replaced the radiator's 5/16 fittings with 3/8 ones and installed a Tru-cool MAX cooler (40,000 gvwr) in the bumper along with it's 3/8 fittings. Post rebuild, the maximum temp I see while climbing 6% grades whilst towing 12,000 lbs. is 186 degrees. I have recently installed two 7" electric fans on the cooler to alleviate a stale air cooling issue, as when the truck is in reverse, the cooling system allowed the temp to climb to 225 once. This is ok, but I wanted it cool all of the time. I am currently building a lightweight sheet metal duct that directs the air coming through the bumper directly into the cooler as hot air could be recycling around the sides and bottom of the cooler. I'm not saying that this is 100% what my problem was, but read on.
Torque Converter Issues.
So, many people here have converter issues. From shuddering, no lockup conditions to just what seems to be excessive unlocked time, most of us have experienced some form of converter issue. I too had issues with two separate converters, and I'll elaborate. At about 213k miles, I encountered what I can only explain as excessive rpm when the converter was unlocked. It was like the transmission was slipping, but it wasn't the transmission. The converter would lock and a 7-800 rpm drop would occur. I was convinced that the converter had an issue since the fluid was new and the pump pressure was good. I pulled the trans and removed the converter. I was curious as to if there was something in the converter so I cut it open. What I found inside was surprising. The turbine blades were eroded and some were cracked and bent. This was most definitely the problem. I ordered a Super Capacity re-manufactured converter from Florida Torque Converter and installed it, post rebuild. After a couple of tows, it seemed all was well, until one day while towing, the converter refused to lock. I have a switch wired into the system so that I can manually lock the converter when I use my exhaust brake. I flipped the switch and......nothing. Needless to say, out it came again. I sent the converter into floridatorque for inspection and a few days later, they called claiming the converter is entirely covered under warranty due to the converter clutch material disbonding from the clutch itself. They offered a new converter and I asked to upgrade to the billet triple disk with welded and heat treated turbine they offer. They obliged and sent the triple disk billet unit to me. It's been in there now for 58K, still locking up hard as ever and pulling like no tomorrow. Although some may think that this may have been my overheating problem all along, I must disagree. I still believe the cooling system is the major fault of all E4ODs, the rest is left for discussion.
Slippage.
Everyone that has a stock transmission has slippage, every time a shift occurs. This was Ford's answer to a smooth shift. Although this has negative effects on the clutches and steels, Ford's customers wanted a smooth shifting heavy duty truck. I think this is absolutely stupid. Do you want your transmission to last as long as possible? Lose the slip shifting. Think about it this way, a manual transmission's wear is focused on the clutch disk wear material, correct? The automatic transmission has a torque converter in place of the clutch that uses fluid viscosity instead of mechanical friction to create the slip for a smoother shift, why allow the expensive internal clutches take the wear? If you can put up with a little bit firmer shift, I advise you to do so. Your transmission will last much longer. Superior makes a kit called an KE4OD-V shift kit. You must remove the transmission to install it as you need to remove and disassemble the pump. This may seem like its too much, but it's not. Just make sure you can locate a 12" diameter hose clamp before you break apart the pump as you'll need to perfectly align the pump halves before re-installation. In my case, I had a stuck pressure regulating valve in the pump, two broken valve body springs and a leaking front seal. KE4OD-V alleviates all of these problems. You'll also find that it doesn't take 3 seconds to shift into reverse anymore.
My rebuild consisted of the Sun Coast Extreme Duty Master Kit. It increases clutch count in forward, direct, intermediate, coast, and overdrive clutch packs, resulting in a transmission that can handle higher amounts of load without slippage. Many would think that rebuilding an automatic transmission is a task beyond their skill, but I must say, it was quite easy. If you have access to a hardware store, mig welder, feeler gauges, a press and can you can read a manual, you can MAKE the tools and rebuild an E4OD. It took me about three weekends, about 4 hours each day with waits consisting of parts delays and illness to finish. It was more messy than anything. The hardest part was aligning the planetary and final clutches prior to installing the pump, and that all took about 30 minutes.
The entire ordeal cost me a total of $1200 and I strongly agree that my rebuild is nearly as good as a BDS or Monster re-manufactured unit, but for a whole lot less.
I personally think that if you have a good E4OD that you could install the shift kit and upgrade that damned inadequate cooling system, you could avoid costly repairs in the long run.
It all starts with a little research and some time spent making a plan. Most will say the E4OD is a problematic transmission plagued with cooling, slippage and shifting issues. This may be true in most cases, but the fact of the matter is, everything can be made better with a little planning and some effort. Lets focus on these problems one at a time, shall we?
Cooling
One day while trying to figure out why my truck's transmission was failing, I decided to install a glowshift transmission temp gauge. I installed the sensor into the test port of the side of the transmission and went for a drive. What I found next was insane. After about three miles of 45 mph driving, the temp climbed to 230 degrees. I then decided to push it a bit and see what I could get it up to, since a rebuild was imminent. Within blocks of heavy acceleration, the gauge pegged at 300 degrees. This was alarming. I can remember thinking to myself "No wonder why so many people had problems with this thing. It's like it was designed to fail, right out of the gate". I know what you're thinking, I have a blockage of some sort or damage. This is not the case. The radiator was about 3 months old, filled with fleet charge and the aux cooler had already been replaced with a hayden unit that I currently am no longer using.
The E4OD has a very poor, undersized, inadequate cooling system consisting of a small 5/16" line that has a restrictive 90 degree bend, connected to a very efficient oil to water cooler incorporated into the radiator, though another too thin 5/16" line into a cooler that looks to be more at home connected to a power steering pump and back to the transmission via yet another sorry 5/16" line though a 5/16" check valve and into the pan. This would be the primary cause for transmission failure in my eyes. The maximum temperature the E4OD should see is somewhere around 225-230F. Much more than that and you can half life your fluid, after that (250-275) you're looking at torque converter clutch friction material disbonding and finally to clutch failure. So, keeping this in mind, and through multiple hours of searching websites and forums and TSBs, I found a little blurb in a Jasper warranty booklet that said that "Your re-manufactured Jasper E4OD transmission's warranty will become void if transmission cooling kit ######## is not installed prior to use." I became curious as to what kit this kit contained and the reasoning behind it. As I understand, the diameter of the fittings, lines and check valve are inadequate for use in a heavy duty transmission, and an upgrade is a necessity. Since this kit comes at a price to the tune of $150, I began my search elsewhere. As it turns out, the 3/8" check-valve at the rear of the transmission is a discontinued part and can only be had at specialty stores. I found it, to the tune of $45 and made a flare fitting to fit 3/8" high pressure rubber hose. I then replaced the radiator's 5/16 fittings with 3/8 ones and installed a Tru-cool MAX cooler (40,000 gvwr) in the bumper along with it's 3/8 fittings. Post rebuild, the maximum temp I see while climbing 6% grades whilst towing 12,000 lbs. is 186 degrees. I have recently installed two 7" electric fans on the cooler to alleviate a stale air cooling issue, as when the truck is in reverse, the cooling system allowed the temp to climb to 225 once. This is ok, but I wanted it cool all of the time. I am currently building a lightweight sheet metal duct that directs the air coming through the bumper directly into the cooler as hot air could be recycling around the sides and bottom of the cooler. I'm not saying that this is 100% what my problem was, but read on.
Torque Converter Issues.
So, many people here have converter issues. From shuddering, no lockup conditions to just what seems to be excessive unlocked time, most of us have experienced some form of converter issue. I too had issues with two separate converters, and I'll elaborate. At about 213k miles, I encountered what I can only explain as excessive rpm when the converter was unlocked. It was like the transmission was slipping, but it wasn't the transmission. The converter would lock and a 7-800 rpm drop would occur. I was convinced that the converter had an issue since the fluid was new and the pump pressure was good. I pulled the trans and removed the converter. I was curious as to if there was something in the converter so I cut it open. What I found inside was surprising. The turbine blades were eroded and some were cracked and bent. This was most definitely the problem. I ordered a Super Capacity re-manufactured converter from Florida Torque Converter and installed it, post rebuild. After a couple of tows, it seemed all was well, until one day while towing, the converter refused to lock. I have a switch wired into the system so that I can manually lock the converter when I use my exhaust brake. I flipped the switch and......nothing. Needless to say, out it came again. I sent the converter into floridatorque for inspection and a few days later, they called claiming the converter is entirely covered under warranty due to the converter clutch material disbonding from the clutch itself. They offered a new converter and I asked to upgrade to the billet triple disk with welded and heat treated turbine they offer. They obliged and sent the triple disk billet unit to me. It's been in there now for 58K, still locking up hard as ever and pulling like no tomorrow. Although some may think that this may have been my overheating problem all along, I must disagree. I still believe the cooling system is the major fault of all E4ODs, the rest is left for discussion.
Slippage.
Everyone that has a stock transmission has slippage, every time a shift occurs. This was Ford's answer to a smooth shift. Although this has negative effects on the clutches and steels, Ford's customers wanted a smooth shifting heavy duty truck. I think this is absolutely stupid. Do you want your transmission to last as long as possible? Lose the slip shifting. Think about it this way, a manual transmission's wear is focused on the clutch disk wear material, correct? The automatic transmission has a torque converter in place of the clutch that uses fluid viscosity instead of mechanical friction to create the slip for a smoother shift, why allow the expensive internal clutches take the wear? If you can put up with a little bit firmer shift, I advise you to do so. Your transmission will last much longer. Superior makes a kit called an KE4OD-V shift kit. You must remove the transmission to install it as you need to remove and disassemble the pump. This may seem like its too much, but it's not. Just make sure you can locate a 12" diameter hose clamp before you break apart the pump as you'll need to perfectly align the pump halves before re-installation. In my case, I had a stuck pressure regulating valve in the pump, two broken valve body springs and a leaking front seal. KE4OD-V alleviates all of these problems. You'll also find that it doesn't take 3 seconds to shift into reverse anymore.
My rebuild consisted of the Sun Coast Extreme Duty Master Kit. It increases clutch count in forward, direct, intermediate, coast, and overdrive clutch packs, resulting in a transmission that can handle higher amounts of load without slippage. Many would think that rebuilding an automatic transmission is a task beyond their skill, but I must say, it was quite easy. If you have access to a hardware store, mig welder, feeler gauges, a press and can you can read a manual, you can MAKE the tools and rebuild an E4OD. It took me about three weekends, about 4 hours each day with waits consisting of parts delays and illness to finish. It was more messy than anything. The hardest part was aligning the planetary and final clutches prior to installing the pump, and that all took about 30 minutes.
The entire ordeal cost me a total of $1200 and I strongly agree that my rebuild is nearly as good as a BDS or Monster re-manufactured unit, but for a whole lot less.
I personally think that if you have a good E4OD that you could install the shift kit and upgrade that damned inadequate cooling system, you could avoid costly repairs in the long run.
Last edited by Thor'sHammer; 06-06-2014 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Finishing.....
The following users liked this post:
#7
06-06-2014, 10:45 PM
More Turbo
If they find that you had the trans in OD while towing they will void the warranty however.
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#8
06-06-2014, 11:02 PM
The only way they would know that is if they literally saw you towing in overdrive, and even then I'd have to question them on how they would know.
I've seen OD clutches burned and welded together on trucks that had never towed in their lifetime. I've seen the teeth on the coast clutch drum worn completely through on E4ODs that were connected to 4.9L I-6 engines that barely have enough power to pull themselves. That statement means that they aren't standing behind their product.
I ALWAYS tow in overdrive. I have never turned it off. If the transmission needs to downshift, it does. I believe the improved cooling system and the shift kit have a lot to do with this on my truck.
#9
06-06-2014, 11:13 PM
BTW:
Here's some links to help you understand how complicated or uncomplicated a rebuild can be.
Rebuild with lots of pics:
E4OD rebuild
The last place I can find the 3/8 check valve:
http://www.nospartswarehouse.com/Ite...OTZ7D174C.html
Low cost parts for the E4OD:
E4OD, 4R100 Transmission Parts Ford Transmission Parts RWD
Here's some links to help you understand how complicated or uncomplicated a rebuild can be.
Rebuild with lots of pics:
E4OD rebuild
The last place I can find the 3/8 check valve:
http://www.nospartswarehouse.com/Ite...OTZ7D174C.html
Low cost parts for the E4OD:
E4OD, 4R100 Transmission Parts Ford Transmission Parts RWD
The following users liked this post:
#10
05-31-2021, 11:50 PM
I have a hard time condoning a $5k price for any transmission. Even though I'm sure they are built well and with quality parts, I have rebuilt and modified my own E4OD to handle copious amounts of torque and has for quite some time now. About 60K miles to be exact nearly all of it towing 12,000 lbs. with 3.55 gears and a modified 7.3L. I haven't had a single problem since.
It all starts with a little research and some time spent making a plan. Most will say the E4OD is a problematic transmission plagued with cooling, slippage and shifting issues. This may be true in most cases, but the fact of the matter is, everything can be made better with a little planning and some effort. Lets focus on these problems one at a time, shall we?
Cooling
One day while trying to figure out why my truck's transmission was failing, I decided to install a glowshift transmission temp gauge. I installed the sensor into the test port of the side of the transmission and went for a drive. What I found next was insane. After about three miles of 45 mph driving, the temp climbed to 230 degrees. I then decided to push it a bit and see what I could get it up to, since a rebuild was imminent. Within blocks of heavy acceleration, the gauge pegged at 300 degrees. This was alarming. I can remember thinking to myself "No wonder why so many people had problems with this thing. It's like it was designed to fail, right out of the gate". I know what you're thinking, I have a blockage of some sort or damage. This is not the case. The radiator was about 3 months old, filled with fleet charge and the aux cooler had already been replaced with a hayden unit that I currently am no longer using.
The E4OD has a very poor, undersized, inadequate cooling system consisting of a small 5/16" line that has a restrictive 90 degree bend, connected to a very efficient oil to water cooler incorporated into the radiator, though another too thin 5/16" line into a cooler that looks to be more at home connected to a power steering pump and back to the transmission via yet another sorry 5/16" line though a 5/16" check valve and into the pan. This would be the primary cause for transmission failure in my eyes. The maximum temperature the E4OD should see is somewhere around 225-230F. Much more than that and you can half life your fluid, after that (250-275) you're looking at torque converter clutch friction material disbonding and finally to clutch failure. So, keeping this in mind, and through multiple hours of searching websites and forums and TSBs, I found a little blurb in a Jasper warranty booklet that said that "Your re-manufactured Jasper E4OD transmission's warranty will become void if transmission cooling kit ######## is not installed prior to use." I became curious as to what kit this kit contained and the reasoning behind it. As I understand, the diameter of the fittings, lines and check valve are inadequate for use in a heavy duty transmission, and an upgrade is a necessity. Since this kit comes at a price to the tune of $150, I began my search elsewhere. As it turns out, the 3/8" check-valve at the rear of the transmission is a discontinued part and can only be had at specialty stores. I found it, to the tune of $45 and made a flare fitting to fit 3/8" high pressure rubber hose. I then replaced the radiator's 5/16 fittings with 3/8 ones and installed a Tru-cool MAX cooler (40,000 gvwr) in the bumper along with it's 3/8 fittings. Post rebuild, the maximum temp I see while climbing 6% grades whilst towing 12,000 lbs. is 186 degrees. I have recently installed two 7" electric fans on the cooler to alleviate a stale air cooling issue, as when the truck is in reverse, the cooling system allowed the temp to climb to 225 once. This is ok, but I wanted it cool all of the time. I am currently building a lightweight sheet metal duct that directs the air coming through the bumper directly into the cooler as hot air could be recycling around the sides and bottom of the cooler. I'm not saying that this is 100% what my problem was, but read on.
Torque Converter Issues.
So, many people here have converter issues. From shuddering, no lockup conditions to just what seems to be excessive unlocked time, most of us have experienced some form of converter issue. I too had issues with two separate converters, and I'll elaborate. At about 213k miles, I encountered what I can only explain as excessive rpm when the converter was unlocked. It was like the transmission was slipping, but it wasn't the transmission. The converter would lock and a 7-800 rpm drop would occur. I was convinced that the converter had an issue since the fluid was new and the pump pressure was good. I pulled the trans and removed the converter. I was curious as to if there was something in the converter so I cut it open. What I found inside was surprising. The turbine blades were eroded and some were cracked and bent. This was most definitely the problem. I ordered a Super Capacity re-manufactured converter from Florida Torque Converter and installed it, post rebuild. After a couple of tows, it seemed all was well, until one day while towing, the converter refused to lock. I have a switch wired into the system so that I can manually lock the converter when I use my exhaust brake. I flipped the switch and......nothing. Needless to say, out it came again. I sent the converter into floridatorque for inspection and a few days later, they called claiming the converter is entirely covered under warranty due to the converter clutch material disbonding from the clutch itself. They offered a new converter and I asked to upgrade to the billet triple disk with welded and heat treated turbine they offer. They obliged and sent the triple disk billet unit to me. It's been in there now for 58K, still locking up hard as ever and pulling like no tomorrow. Although some may think that this may have been my overheating problem all along, I must disagree. I still believe the cooling system is the major fault of all E4ODs, the rest is left for discussion.
Slippage.
Everyone that has a stock transmission has slippage, every time a shift occurs. This was Ford's answer to a smooth shift. Although this has negative effects on the clutches and steels, Ford's customers wanted a smooth shifting heavy duty truck. I think this is absolutely stupid. Do you want your transmission to last as long as possible? Lose the slip shifting. Think about it this way, a manual transmission's wear is focused on the clutch disk wear material, correct? The automatic transmission has a torque converter in place of the clutch that uses fluid viscosity instead of mechanical friction to create the slip for a smoother shift, why allow the expensive internal clutches take the wear? If you can put up with a little bit firmer shift, I advise you to do so. Your transmission will last much longer. Superior makes a kit called an KE4OD-V shift kit. You must remove the transmission to install it as you need to remove and disassemble the pump. This may seem like its too much, but it's not. Just make sure you can locate a 12" diameter hose clamp before you break apart the pump as you'll need to perfectly align the pump halves before re-installation. In my case, I had a stuck pressure regulating valve in the pump, two broken valve body springs and a leaking front seal. KE4OD-V alleviates all of these problems. You'll also find that it doesn't take 3 seconds to shift into reverse anymore.
My rebuild consisted of the Sun Coast Extreme Duty Master Kit. It increases clutch count in forward, direct, intermediate, coast, and overdrive clutch packs, resulting in a transmission that can handle higher amounts of load without slippage. Many would think that rebuilding an automatic transmission is a task beyond their skill, but I must say, it was quite easy. If you have access to a hardware store, mig welder, feeler gauges, a press and can you can read a manual, you can MAKE the tools and rebuild an E4OD. It took me about three weekends, about 4 hours each day with waits consisting of parts delays and illness to finish. It was more messy than anything. The hardest part was aligning the planetary and final clutches prior to installing the pump, and that all took about 30 minutes.
The entire ordeal cost me a total of $1200 and I strongly agree that my rebuild is nearly as good as a BDS or Monster re-manufactured unit, but for a whole lot less.
I personally think that if you have a good E4OD that you could install the shift kit and upgrade that damned inadequate cooling system, you could avoid costly repairs in the long run.
It all starts with a little research and some time spent making a plan. Most will say the E4OD is a problematic transmission plagued with cooling, slippage and shifting issues. This may be true in most cases, but the fact of the matter is, everything can be made better with a little planning and some effort. Lets focus on these problems one at a time, shall we?
Cooling
One day while trying to figure out why my truck's transmission was failing, I decided to install a glowshift transmission temp gauge. I installed the sensor into the test port of the side of the transmission and went for a drive. What I found next was insane. After about three miles of 45 mph driving, the temp climbed to 230 degrees. I then decided to push it a bit and see what I could get it up to, since a rebuild was imminent. Within blocks of heavy acceleration, the gauge pegged at 300 degrees. This was alarming. I can remember thinking to myself "No wonder why so many people had problems with this thing. It's like it was designed to fail, right out of the gate". I know what you're thinking, I have a blockage of some sort or damage. This is not the case. The radiator was about 3 months old, filled with fleet charge and the aux cooler had already been replaced with a hayden unit that I currently am no longer using.
The E4OD has a very poor, undersized, inadequate cooling system consisting of a small 5/16" line that has a restrictive 90 degree bend, connected to a very efficient oil to water cooler incorporated into the radiator, though another too thin 5/16" line into a cooler that looks to be more at home connected to a power steering pump and back to the transmission via yet another sorry 5/16" line though a 5/16" check valve and into the pan. This would be the primary cause for transmission failure in my eyes. The maximum temperature the E4OD should see is somewhere around 225-230F. Much more than that and you can half life your fluid, after that (250-275) you're looking at torque converter clutch friction material disbonding and finally to clutch failure. So, keeping this in mind, and through multiple hours of searching websites and forums and TSBs, I found a little blurb in a Jasper warranty booklet that said that "Your re-manufactured Jasper E4OD transmission's warranty will become void if transmission cooling kit ######## is not installed prior to use." I became curious as to what kit this kit contained and the reasoning behind it. As I understand, the diameter of the fittings, lines and check valve are inadequate for use in a heavy duty transmission, and an upgrade is a necessity. Since this kit comes at a price to the tune of $150, I began my search elsewhere. As it turns out, the 3/8" check-valve at the rear of the transmission is a discontinued part and can only be had at specialty stores. I found it, to the tune of $45 and made a flare fitting to fit 3/8" high pressure rubber hose. I then replaced the radiator's 5/16 fittings with 3/8 ones and installed a Tru-cool MAX cooler (40,000 gvwr) in the bumper along with it's 3/8 fittings. Post rebuild, the maximum temp I see while climbing 6% grades whilst towing 12,000 lbs. is 186 degrees. I have recently installed two 7" electric fans on the cooler to alleviate a stale air cooling issue, as when the truck is in reverse, the cooling system allowed the temp to climb to 225 once. This is ok, but I wanted it cool all of the time. I am currently building a lightweight sheet metal duct that directs the air coming through the bumper directly into the cooler as hot air could be recycling around the sides and bottom of the cooler. I'm not saying that this is 100% what my problem was, but read on.
Torque Converter Issues.
So, many people here have converter issues. From shuddering, no lockup conditions to just what seems to be excessive unlocked time, most of us have experienced some form of converter issue. I too had issues with two separate converters, and I'll elaborate. At about 213k miles, I encountered what I can only explain as excessive rpm when the converter was unlocked. It was like the transmission was slipping, but it wasn't the transmission. The converter would lock and a 7-800 rpm drop would occur. I was convinced that the converter had an issue since the fluid was new and the pump pressure was good. I pulled the trans and removed the converter. I was curious as to if there was something in the converter so I cut it open. What I found inside was surprising. The turbine blades were eroded and some were cracked and bent. This was most definitely the problem. I ordered a Super Capacity re-manufactured converter from Florida Torque Converter and installed it, post rebuild. After a couple of tows, it seemed all was well, until one day while towing, the converter refused to lock. I have a switch wired into the system so that I can manually lock the converter when I use my exhaust brake. I flipped the switch and......nothing. Needless to say, out it came again. I sent the converter into floridatorque for inspection and a few days later, they called claiming the converter is entirely covered under warranty due to the converter clutch material disbonding from the clutch itself. They offered a new converter and I asked to upgrade to the billet triple disk with welded and heat treated turbine they offer. They obliged and sent the triple disk billet unit to me. It's been in there now for 58K, still locking up hard as ever and pulling like no tomorrow. Although some may think that this may have been my overheating problem all along, I must disagree. I still believe the cooling system is the major fault of all E4ODs, the rest is left for discussion.
Slippage.
Everyone that has a stock transmission has slippage, every time a shift occurs. This was Ford's answer to a smooth shift. Although this has negative effects on the clutches and steels, Ford's customers wanted a smooth shifting heavy duty truck. I think this is absolutely stupid. Do you want your transmission to last as long as possible? Lose the slip shifting. Think about it this way, a manual transmission's wear is focused on the clutch disk wear material, correct? The automatic transmission has a torque converter in place of the clutch that uses fluid viscosity instead of mechanical friction to create the slip for a smoother shift, why allow the expensive internal clutches take the wear? If you can put up with a little bit firmer shift, I advise you to do so. Your transmission will last much longer. Superior makes a kit called an KE4OD-V shift kit. You must remove the transmission to install it as you need to remove and disassemble the pump. This may seem like its too much, but it's not. Just make sure you can locate a 12" diameter hose clamp before you break apart the pump as you'll need to perfectly align the pump halves before re-installation. In my case, I had a stuck pressure regulating valve in the pump, two broken valve body springs and a leaking front seal. KE4OD-V alleviates all of these problems. You'll also find that it doesn't take 3 seconds to shift into reverse anymore.
My rebuild consisted of the Sun Coast Extreme Duty Master Kit. It increases clutch count in forward, direct, intermediate, coast, and overdrive clutch packs, resulting in a transmission that can handle higher amounts of load without slippage. Many would think that rebuilding an automatic transmission is a task beyond their skill, but I must say, it was quite easy. If you have access to a hardware store, mig welder, feeler gauges, a press and can you can read a manual, you can MAKE the tools and rebuild an E4OD. It took me about three weekends, about 4 hours each day with waits consisting of parts delays and illness to finish. It was more messy than anything. The hardest part was aligning the planetary and final clutches prior to installing the pump, and that all took about 30 minutes.
The entire ordeal cost me a total of $1200 and I strongly agree that my rebuild is nearly as good as a BDS or Monster re-manufactured unit, but for a whole lot less.
I personally think that if you have a good E4OD that you could install the shift kit and upgrade that damned inadequate cooling system, you could avoid costly repairs in the long run.
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