Another Dana 60 swap.
#16
#18
Reverse shackle kit
Some reading here with pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-fab-rsk.html
Some reading here with pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-fab-rsk.html
#19
Just putting the D60 under it lifts it a little. You need the original 4" blocks in the back to make it set like a F350. If you don't go with the RSK, DEFINITELY change to the F350 springs. Did you notice the springs in my pic? DON'T do that! The ride sucks! They will get you by in a pinch, but that's it. I will be changing them real soon before my kidneys completely fail!
#20
#21
#25
Ok, the thicker of the two are diesel springs. You don't want them. Rough ride. Go here and prowl around. It will show you some stuff about springs.
Ford Truck F Series Light Duty Truck Leaf Spring Hangers,Ford Truck F Series Light Duty Truck Leaf Spring Shackles, Complete Suspension Kits-AutoandTruckSprings.com
Ford Truck F Series Light Duty Truck Leaf Spring Hangers,Ford Truck F Series Light Duty Truck Leaf Spring Shackles, Complete Suspension Kits-AutoandTruckSprings.com
#26
Well the 60's in. I know with the 250 pitman arm I'll have reduced stering radius. My problem is I think I put it tyrod on arm when clocked wrong turns great to right. Not so good to left. Can I drop tie rod at arm and rotate wheel one turn to the left?
Is there a procedure for doing this in the dirt ?
Thanks.
Is there a procedure for doing this in the dirt ?
Thanks.
#27
I haven't done this myself yet, but this is what i think I would do:
The pitman arm can only be clocked on the steering box shaft at one angle. I'd disconnect the steering linkage, and center the steering box by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then half ways between those two points, regardless if the steering wheel is straight or not.
Then I'd make sure by tires were parallel to eachother and then also facing straight ahead.
I'd adjust the steering linkage (not the piece connecting the two wheels) lengthwise to fit the pitman arm. And if necessary, loosen and reclock the steering wheel on its shaft.
The pitman arm can only be clocked on the steering box shaft at one angle. I'd disconnect the steering linkage, and center the steering box by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then half ways between those two points, regardless if the steering wheel is straight or not.
Then I'd make sure by tires were parallel to eachother and then also facing straight ahead.
I'd adjust the steering linkage (not the piece connecting the two wheels) lengthwise to fit the pitman arm. And if necessary, loosen and reclock the steering wheel on its shaft.
#28
I haven't done this myself yet, but this is what i think I would do:
The pitman arm can only be clocked on the steering box shaft at one angle. I'd disconnect the steering linkage, and center the steering box by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then half ways between those two points, regardless if the steering wheel is straight or not.
Then I'd make sure by tires were parallel to eachother and then also facing straight ahead.
I'd adjust the steering linkage (not the piece connecting the two wheels) lengthwise to fit the pitman arm. And if necessary, loosen and reclock the steering wheel on its shaft.
The pitman arm can only be clocked on the steering box shaft at one angle. I'd disconnect the steering linkage, and center the steering box by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then half ways between those two points, regardless if the steering wheel is straight or not.
Then I'd make sure by tires were parallel to eachother and then also facing straight ahead.
I'd adjust the steering linkage (not the piece connecting the two wheels) lengthwise to fit the pitman arm. And if necessary, loosen and reclock the steering wheel on its shaft.