2003 Ex 6.0L limited 2WD 120k miles.

Hello,

I have a question concerning my alternator. I replaced my alternator about a year and a half ago. Then in the last 2 months I noticed when parked with the engine running, I would get a clicking noise like every 30 seconds. (I now believe that to be the alternator engaging and disengaging). About two weeks ago, I began to experience the battery light coming on in the dash while driving. Then it went to flickering on and off. Now its back on steady. I went to advance auto and my batteries were under warranty. Guy checked batts and said they were good, but then I said wait, lets unhook them from each other...then they turned up bad on his gauge. I had him check alternator at the same time unfortunately while the batteries were still connected and he said alternator was fine. So with new batteries I still get battery light coming on steady. So I had one of those cigarette lighter charging indicator devices and plug it in and it shows 12.05 volts with a red light on (system isn't charging). I checked terminals, cleaned terminals/posts everything ...still not charging.....then I went to the alternator while trunk running and pushed down on the charging post on rear passenger side of alternator. Suddenly I hear the click like the alternator engaged and the meter in the cigarette lighter shows 13.20-13.50. It stayed on for a while then after 10 min. it clicked off again. So I went back and pushed down on the alt. charging post connection again.....and wah la click, engagement and its charging again.

My question is: Is it normal that the alternator engages and disengages while parked with the engine in idle? What I heard in the beginning? Or should alternator stay on continuously with out that clicking? Next.... I read that the voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator itself and the whole unit must be changed (its a Tough One alternator bought at Advance with a limited lifetime warranty...if connector is bad does that mean alternator is bad or is it maybe my wires and not the alternator)... I don't even know how I would claim the warranty. Is there a part number for the connector? Its the charging post connector that I'm pushing down on and not the voltage regulator black plug. The charging post connector has a grey rubber housing sleeve. I tried pulling on it to unplug it and it wouldn't budge..I didn't want to break it off....should it just pull off or do I have to squeeze and release or some other trick?
I noticed while I had my finger down on it in the charging mode..the connector got hot real quick (when it was charging) when it wasn't charging it was cool to the touch. So much heat might have melted or degraded the connection point on the alt charging post itself or the internal part of the wire side connector? Any advice? Should I just buy a new alt or is there a way to test the wire side of the charging post connector? I hope this helps some of you out there.....press down on the connector and see if your system starts charging..mine did. BTW...two months before this I have been getting at times a no start when trying to crank up. Batteries seemed fine (lights and all worked) but absolutely no electrical to the starter (glow plugs came on, but go to crank and nothing). Also the clue to my batteries being weak was that the truck started to have slow start conditions when it would start.... it would engage starter but take a while to crank over. I'd shut off all electrical (AC, radio etc) to crank it up and noticed this helped a bit.

 

The alternator should charge until the battery comes up to at least 12.5 volts and your running voltage should be 13+ volts. Take the alternator back to the retailer and get another under warranty. Wiggling the terminal connection a bit shouldn't effect your output.

Although it is not popular on this site, the way to really tell if a battery is shot is to measure the specific gravity in each cell with a hydrometer which can be bought from your retailer as well with a load and voltage test. The test should be done after you charge the battery with a battery charger to 12.5 volts. Good luck.

 

????? That's all Benny touts in the specific gravity test. And several more do it as well.

Why isn't it more popular? Because most modern batteries are sealed and the test cannot even be performed.

Josh

 

Just went through this with Autozone....

If the alternator replacement you got was a reman, consider getting a "new" alternator instead. I went through 2 of them before I had enough and got a new one. Haven't had a problem since....

While the Ford one would be awesome, I had a warranty and the dealer was closed.

 

the only true way to test batteries is an actual individual load test of each battery with a resistive load. Failing that, Specific Gravity. Are you going for a bigger alternator this round, or the 140 amp upgraded ford unit? Depending on your use, short trips, cold weather an alternator over 180 ams is probably warrented....

 

My view on this subject is not popular but popular or not it is still true.
Mhoefer hit on my point, your electrical system needs to be sized to your normaly expected demand plus a little for exspansion.

If all you will use/draw is 120amps then 140 is more than big enough.
180 amps is simply wasted actually to thin air. A natural by-product of current flowing thru a conducter is heat and the air normally dissapates that heat.

 

An alternator only outputs what is required. It isn't like a 1000 amp alternator always puts out 1000 amps.

Josh

 

Are you sure it's the alternator? That sounds more like the A/C compressor - you might turn-off the A/C (if it was on) and see if the clicking stops. the Alternator is (almost) "always" on - just varies it's output… You might want to get one of those fancy 'meters' which clamp around a wire and read current..

Load testing the batteries (most auto parts stores do it for free) only requires you to remove ONE ground wire from ONE battery so they can individually load test them ON the vehicle..



EDIT: IF you batteries are weak because of a bad alternator - you risk destroying your FICM - if you have a ODB GAUGE reader (sg2, or smartphone ap) you can monitor your FICM volts - and your batt volts as well. A bad battery can ruin an alternator and the reverse too, so be systematic and don't let this go on too long..

 

I agree with Misky, low voltage can overheat the FICM and increase your expenses! I suggest charge the batteries on a charger and re-test and pull the wire off the back of the alt and check for corrosion. Replace the eyelet on the wire if it's shot and clean up the stud on the alternator. Check it for looseness also, it shouldn't wiggle in the back of the housing. A poor connection will create heat and if it's been getting hot enough, long enough, the insulator may be shot and a new alt will be the fix.

Once it's all back together, it shouldn't make any clicking noises.

If you live near a larger town, a local repair shop may be an economical option for alt repair or replacement.

 

If the backing nut will tighten and the charge stay steady your good to go. If not take it back and get a replacement. Tighten the backing nut on the new unit before installing the charge wire. Been there done that but not on the 6.0.

 

Ok my example of the wasted energy wasn't the best, but your post actually confirms my main points.
The alternator is only going to put out as much as is drawn up to the physical ability of the alternator.

Buying a 180 amp alternator if all your gonna draw is 120amps is just a waste of a lot of money.

 

To get at least 13.5+ volts cold idle while the glow plugs are operating is going to take about a 230 amp alternator to do so.

Peak amperage is one thing, cold and hot idle performance is another which is more important for the 6.0 considering the normal running amps with no accessories of 50+ amps, and then the 70-100 amps of the glow plugs.

Josh

 

Couldn't of said it any better myself,I hope that clears up any questions!