After hunting around for a while, the only complete kit I saw was that $400+ from that cruise control store. I started looking for just the steering wheel/controls and the clock spring. I found them individually from the same ebay seller and after I ordered them, I found that he had the brake interrupt switch for sale too.

The three parts shipping included was 156.54. All together, it's the factory kit that is 'no longer available'. Even comes with Ford instructions.

(You could probably find the steering wheel and clock spring from a junkyard but when I removed my old clock spring, it came apart and could have been damaged. Maybe not worth the risk. The brake pedal switch is the only other part you'd need and it's 19.80 shipped from this guy.)

So, here's what I got from him. (and it's all in ford packaging BTW)

First you need the steering wheel with buttons:

Ford F350 1999 2003 Steering Wheel with Cruise Switches | eBay

A clock spring:

Ford F350 1999 01 Clock Spring with Cruise Control Connections Brand New | eBay

and a brake switch disconnect switch:

Ford F150 1999 03 Cruise Control Brake Switch Release Brand New | eBay

These are the directions you will get with the kit:

















Here is the excerpt from the owners manual describing use of the speed control: (note that you need to be 30+ mph for it to activate)











This is the connector on the fender and the wires you will have to splice into to get the brake switch disconnect to work. There are two two wire connectors in the area, this one and another rounder connector that is above the master cylinder in the cross cowl harness. These photos should make it more clear as to which connector you're dealing with. The system will NOT work if you don't do this. It sends power from the PCM fuse/relay/diode and interrupts it when the brake pedal is depressed. As the connector sits, that path is open and no current flows. My only problem with the install was being hesitant to cut into this connector and short the two wires with the switch until I was sure it was the correct one. Picture shows connector wires cut and spliced into the brake interrupt switch wiring:





The clutch interrupt and parking brake interrupt switches are already integral to the stock harness so you don't have to do anything with them for the install.

Having done it once, I could probably do it in 20 minutes now.

Oh, it comes with a new steering wheel bolt and two new bolts for the brake switch as well as 2 heat shrink connectors. Also, the new clock spring comes with what was for me an additional wire that goes to the lock cylinder housing and gave me key in ignition warning chime functionality.

Even though I have a late 99 motor, my chassis is a early 99 so I don't have a cruise control light in my cluster. If you really wanted it you could install the bulb and a late PCM.

I wish I had done this before my last few long trips. Works just as it should!

 

Great info. Pop should probably add this to his 7.3 mods link page.

 

You did some awesome looking and finding things. Let us know how it all works out.

I like the description for the wheel the seller has:

"They will also fit non cruise vehicles, but naturally the switches will not provide cruise control on non-cruise vehicles. "

 

That IS pretty darn funny...LOL.

REPS sent for the write-up, and for the laugh! OOOOOOPS...accidental REPS to Chris. But since he's the one that pointed me to FTE from another website years ago, he deserves REPS anyway. Plus his help has been awesome through the years.

 

For sure it will be added to the tech folder.

Stewart

 

Reviving an old thread. Seems all the links posted are now dead. I've located the correct wheel and clock spring but am having problems with the brake switch. Can anyone post up a part number for it. All I am finding on eBay is a repair kit. Thanks and my right leg is going to love this.

 

It's worked flawlessly from day one. Love it! Plus the fact that it uses a brake pedal mounted microswitch for the brake cut instead of the master cylinder mounted pressure switch, it doesn't run the risk of the cruise control fires that have happened in the past.

This is the seller I got everything from:

qdmauto on eBay

If I remember right, I had to contact him to get the microswitch and bracket, but he had everything I needed. Have fun with it when you get it installed!

 

Thanks, I sent him an eBay message. Hopefully he can tell me the parts and where to find them. I'll keep you updated. My right leg needs this bad ;-)

 

You don't technically need the extra switch, its a backup switch just incase the main switch fails(brake light switch). Connect the two wires under the hood together and you are done.

In fact you can buy 2 toggle switches and 3 resistors from a radio shack and build your own cruise control set up, if you dont want to buy the wheel and switches.

 

I THINK I tested that. If I remember right, it didn't switch off hitting the brake unless it saw a change at that plug, hence the need for the brake pedal switch. I could be wrong and the circuitry looks at the OEM brake light switch too, but I don't think so. If if did, why isn't there a redundant switch on the clutch as well in an OEM setup?

 

I cant speak for a zf6 truck but i have done a few autos and that is a redundant switch. If you have a good brake light switch it will cancel the cruise. I've done it on 99-03 7.3's and 94-97 7.3's all autos of course.