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  #31  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:30 PM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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Oh well, I'm glad I learned. May end up putting a clear inline secondary before just so I do not repeat this again. Replaced the coil, wires, spark plug, cap/rotor and now it seems to be running pretty swell. I painted the valve covers and they came out even worse than before, but a lot less oily.

-Quick question though, I do understand that the vehicle is 41 years old, but it seems to shake a lot. I looked at the rpm with my electronic timing light and it's running 650-700 rpm. Not sure if you guys are familiar with the engine but was curious if my idle air or fuel mixture could cause this vibration. If not, what could I do to cushion the vibration or at least not make the truck rattle as bad.

-I plan on doing a rebuild on the drive train. Starting with the engine, and then once school starts up again, the NP435 transmission, following by the driveline, then the differential.

ENGINE:
- I would like to, but most likely will not be able to do, is do the 428 Crankshaft swap, get improved flow heads, intake/exhaust with stock internals. To create some more power, but not excessive.
- Opinions?

Transmission:
-Just want to service it, may drop forged gears and a towing clutch to withstand the stroked engine.


Driveline/Differential:
-Replace all the U-Joints with above average equipment but possibly switching the gear ratio from the stock 3.54 ratio to a bit longer of ratio for high way driving.
-Opinions?
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  #32  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
-Quick question though, I do understand that the vehicle is 41 years old, but it seems to shake a lot. I looked at the rpm with my electronic timing light and it's running 650-700 rpm. Not sure if you guys are familiar with the engine but was curious if my idle air or fuel mixture could cause this vibration. If not, what could I do to cushion the vibration or at least not make the truck rattle as bad.
Using a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold dial in the adjustment screws on the carb so that each reaches ma vacuum .. The vacuum needle should be steady in one position not jumpy .. Also check motor mounts for tears or separation in the rubber ..

I would fix other stuff first before the 428 upgrade ..

Stay with the 3:54s until you have the motor and trans the way you want it and then decide ..
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  #33  
Old 07-15-2014, 10:34 PM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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While doing the vacuum max, should I worry about the RPM (Adjusting fuel-mixture screws?) or should I focus the max, then adjust the idle with the idle air (By the way I have the Autolite 2,100.)
Thank you for your input Redroad, you're right I shouldn't jump the gun, I just have to service the heads, and figured if I'm doing that already, I thought I should just get it done, instead of doing a teardown twice.
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  #34  
Old 07-15-2014, 10:46 PM
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You can just start with this adjustment you wil be adjusting them many times until you get everything all dialed in and working together .. This should smooth out the idle and if it does not or only partial improvement then we will need to look elsewhere ..

More carb info .. It's a 2150 but a lot of it will pertain to you ..
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  #35  
Old 07-15-2014, 11:38 PM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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Thanks once more, Redroad! Greatly appreciated.
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  #36  
Old 07-16-2014, 12:36 AM
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Welcome Tony and Nikki!

I've just read your thread and congrats on the new truck. Sounds like she's getting some attention from you but given enough, I'm sure she'll (or he will) reward you with many miles of smiles and stories.

It sounds like its been sitting a while so you'll find lots of things that will need attention. I'll share my experience with you about valve stem seals. I hoped you check them when you pulled your valve covers off to paint them. If the old motor has been sitting a while the rubber valve stem seals will get hard and eventually fall apart and go into your oil pan, then into your oil pump and then into your oil system and bearings so if you catch it in time you can replace the seals pretty cheap without removing the heads but if you wait then you might find what I did and that lead to a full rebuild.

Good luck and I look forward to reading your adventures.
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  #37  
Old 07-16-2014, 12:41 AM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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Shoot, I wish I knew that last night.
-Oh well, I'm going to have to do the heads soon regardless. Thank you, though. :P Thanks for the welcome!
-Quick question, the guys at my work are trying to convince me to run 15-40 Diesel oil just until my build. Opinions? I am burning a LOT. (5-30)
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  #38  
Old 07-26-2014, 05:00 AM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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Hello gentlemen, just posting an update. Fixed my exhaust leak on my second bank, and I did not break a single bolt! Also fixed a valve cover gasket leak as well. Everything is coming together slowly, but surely. I have a been trying to put together a list of items to get done and the best way of hitting multiple targets with less shots.

To Do: (Always increasing in size.)

A/C Unit - Stopped working one day, need to diagnosis. Seems to not be responding with control unit almost if not getting power.

Bearings - Simply out of caution, felt some grinding when spinning front rotors.

Bed Work - AND I MEAN FREAKING BED WORK UGH. Sorry. Have to chisel out the dried and painted concrete out of the back and try to straighten some major damaged areas.

Belts - Squealing in the morning, easy fix.

Bench Seat - Need to look into restoring the seat or replacing with bucket seats. May buy a two footed sewing machine to start practicing with.

Brake Hoses - Not leaking yet, but outer layer damaged.

Brake Pressure Switch - Found out someone removed the bulb in the cluster once I pulled it out. I replaced it and the light has yet to turn on. Going to check voltage and see if short or switch is damaged.

Body work - Body work, body work, body work. Paint, dents, light rust.

Coolant Overflow - Trying to locate a tank to install to catch access fluid instead of spilling on the floor and staining the concrete.

Degrease - Oil caked undercarriage, want to clean it up on the account that I'm done going to blind when slightly tapping something while underneath.

Differential Gasket - Serviced differential roughly four months ago, but must not have done the correct torque since it's leaking. May replace cover with a styled one.

Disc Brakes - Replaced pads, need to rebuild calipers and replace rotor assembly. (Along with new bearings obviously.)

Drag Link - Boot Damaged, have the new part, nervous to replace due to alignment issues.

Drum Brakes - Need to purchase rear drums, or possible convert to disc. Have shoes and hardware kit along with wheel cylinders.

Engine build - Varying ideas on what to do. What I am sure is that my #1 cylinder's exhaust valve is not seating well. (Possible 410 Stroker Build?) Also rear main seal is leaking quite a bit.

Exhaust work - Got separate routed glasspacks and they're cool and all but would prefer something a bit more classy. Looking into Magnaflows.

Gas Filler Neck - Leaking when filling up, at the point where I have to bring a funnel and a collector pan.. May Drop Auxiliary tank and clean it while at it.

Heater Hose Fitting - As I always do, I half-assed. Replaced water pump, forgot to get new fitting and shrugged it off. Major seepage and constantly filling coolant tank. (D'OH!)

Oil Dipstick - Current one is 'kustom.' Can't tell if the scratched mark is Full or Quart low. Would prefer a billet one.

Oil Pressure Switch - Gauge needle is almost always near 'L' or a notch over.

Power Steering Pump - Squealing and leaking from what appears to be the hoses.

Power Steering Gear Box - Excessive steering play, may be a cause, not sure the proper way of diagnosing.

Rear Window Seal - Cracking but not compromised, more of a cosmetic reason of replacement.

Shocks - A must ASACA (As soon as I can afford.) Excessive bump steer in what I believe is stock height.

Sound Proofing - Looking into sound matting the cabin. One of my biggest pet peeves, but the pricing is the issue.

Tachometer - Shifting by ear is cool and I've got it down to the point I can match shifts without clutch but would be useful to diagnosis problems when I don't have my timing light handy. Looking at either column mount, or possible matched saw drilled and dash installed.

Tailgate - Most likely not salvageable(thanks to my pal in a lifted Ranger push starting me up a drive way.. embarrassing story if interested.), going to look into prices and options.

Voltage Gauge - I have absolutely not idea on where to start, may just follow wires and try to follow with a DMM.

Most likely will edit and add more, if any input or suggestions. Please post. Thanks once more guys, you guys are awesome!
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  #39  
Old 07-26-2014, 09:46 AM
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Good morning Tony, thoughts on a few of the items on your list.

The brake warning light. Unless there is something wrong with the brakes, it should only illuminate when the key is in the "start" position, this is a self-test. If it doesn't light up then either the bulb (which you replaced) is bad or there is a wiring problem.

Coolant overflow. The "normal" level for the radiator in these trucks is about an 1˝" below the filler. That's because these trucks didn't come with a coolant recovery system. If you fill the radiator to the bottom of the filler, when the engine warms up and the coolant expands, it'll dump the excess on the floor.

Steering box. If you replace it, go with Red Head steering in Seattle, WA. They are completely rebuilt and are competitive with a "spray 'n pray" from the local chain store. They also correct some inherent design flaws. Red-Head Steering Gears - Custom Rebuilt Steering Gear Boxes in USA

Oil pressure. FE's (360-390) are noted for low oil pressure. My truck had a 360 (now 390) in it and I ran it for years with what I would call crtically low oil pressure. When cold, the gauge would move about a third of the way across the gauge. When hot it would just barely move. I put a high volume oil pump in it and ran SAE 50 oil in it and it didn't seem to make any difference. I put a mechanical gauge on it and that just made me more paranoid.
When I retired that engine, it had 300,000 miles on it and the engine was totally worn out but it never let me down.

Tailgate. If you replace, go for either an OEM quality reproduction (these will have the "FORD" lettering stamped on them) or look for a really good used one. The aftermarket cheapies that you can get (No FORD lettering) are real thin metal and will be nothing but a disappointment.

You're correct with your last statement, only what you should have said is, you WILL add more. Everyone who has one (or more) of these trucks seem to develop a serious, almost fatal (financially anyway) disease called "while I'm here I might as well..."
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  #40  
Old 08-23-2014, 03:19 AM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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Hahaha. I had a feeling, it was more in enthusiastic hope. I will have to look into that company, thank you!

Just received the rubber filler hose in the mail along with my emergency flasher.

Sorry for the lack of updates, bit of things came up. Destroyed the nerves in my finger with a knife and bought a new bike. We win some, we loose most, haha

Any suggestions on dropping the auxiliary tank and cleaning? I plan to do it when my fingernail grows back, or at least when my stitches are removed and want to make sure it's done correctly the first time.
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  #41  
Old 08-23-2014, 08:03 PM
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Sorry to hear that .. Wish you a speedy recovery .. Hope you can still laugh

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #42  
Old 08-24-2014, 02:14 AM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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Never a day not to enjoy and take a laugh at, Redroad! Love the photo, thanks!

Alright, so I've been doing some part searching for Cylinder Heads. First Cylinder exhaust valve is not seating well, and also realized that the exhaust stud holes are destroyed. Even past the point of Helicoils. What's your personal opinions gents?

What is the difference in Smog vs. Non? I know for a fact I have nothing related to smog on currently, but not sure if factory, or was removed. Is this very important when looking for replacement parts?(I figure yes, but doesn't hurt to ask?) Going to be my first engine rebuild so I apologize for future FNG questions.

RockAuto - $178.79 - $60.00 ( Core ) = $238.79
Is currently the cheapest I can find, even cheaper than the jobber discount at O'Reilly's.
(Since the stud holes are damaged, figure I will lose out on core? The store I work let these slide. Any personal experience with the situation?)

If I'm going to do the first bank, should I get the second one machined or replace as well?

I have the full gasket set for the engine so there's no worry there. Going to start pricing out bearings and such, might as well do the lower end while I'm at it.

Components recommended on replacing? I might as well do from top to bottom, but not sure if necessary?

Once more you guys are awesome, and thank you for any input, it is sincerely appreciated!
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  #43  
Old 09-25-2014, 03:44 AM
Anthony_Franco Anthony_Franco is offline
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Sorry for the lack of updates. My shock absorber locked up and sheered off my shock mount on my radius arm. Didn't want to deal with the riveted mount and trying to find a new one so I have it at a shop. Hopefully they do a decent job.
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:44 AM
 
 
 
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