is it all goop or is that a flake or 2 in the pic as well?

 

It didn't seem to be any flakes in it, no grit or anything. It looked like oil mixed with fuel or coolant to me, but I assumed it was just because the injector had backed out. The cup looked good to me, no scoring or anything that I saw. I just ordered 8 new sets of o-rings and a UVCH.

 

Question, could cranking the engine with the 42pin connector unhooked fry the IDM?

 

That's pretty unlikely. It wouldn't even get a signal from the PCM to fire the injectors with the harness disconnected because there'd be no signal from the CPS nor an ICP reading.

 

I put mine in no start when I did mine but I doubt it.

 

I've cranked mine over with the 42 pin disconnected a few times after installing injectors. Won't hurt a thing.

 

^^^Me too. Didn't hurt either one of my trucks.

 

That's what I thought, but I was just double checking. I am racking my brain trying to figure this pig out. Thanks you guys.

 

Jason, sorry if this has already been suggested... Years ago i had an intermittent injector problem. I checked the harness where it rubs on the valve cove and found nothing. After 3 more days work, I found I did have a chafed wire in that bundle. But it was IN the protective coating about 2' down from the 42 pin connector. The wires had actually chafed on the protective tubing itself and would cause an intermittent miss and shutting down of a whole bank of injectors. I just want to stress that it was in that bundle in a spot I would NEVER suspect of chafing because there was nothing there for it to rub on. I think snowplowing and the rocking and jarring of that may have contributed to it. If this has been covered already, I apologize. The thread is too long to read through the whole thing again. Good luck, I'm pulling for you my snowplow brother!

 

Hey guys, I will admit I haven't read all eleven pages at the same time so I might have missed several things in here. I know every situation is different but I think a couple of us are having close to the same issues.

I found oil seeping past the turbo seals when the rpms were around 1500 to 1800. See attached video.

http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vG2yCXKL-n0

After doing a compression check, I had 350ish on all cylinders but #4,#6,#8... #4 being the low at about 250ish. I double checked and tripled checked everything I could think of and even asked some questions on here. I pulled all injectors on the drivers side and put new o-rings on them again hoping to maybe get a little lucky and improve the compressions even if it was only just a little bit. I'm sad to report that I wasn't able to make a difference at all. I knew it was a long shot but it was one of the cheapest things I could try at the time. After putting it all back together I still had oil coming out the turbo with the valve covers off. I reinstalled everything to normal operating conditions except I hooked up a inches of water gauge to the 90 degree black hose on the CCV dog house. At idle, I had 5" to 6" of pressure on the gauge. Doesn't seem like a lot but I believe my theory is correct in that I have just enough back pressure that the oil in the turbo housing is not draining back to the sump and the oil is going through the engine. This same condition happened with my old turbo and on a brand new center cartridge. The funny thing is, other than the smoke and loss of oil, the engine seemed to be running really good.

I'm sure it's not what you want to here right now with everything going on but maybe it will help you and others with similar issues. I only have 165K on this engine. I'm pretty surprised my self because I have always taken pretty good care of it and figured I would get a lot miles out it before I had these types of issues.

Hopes it helps.

Keep your head up and stay strong. Remember, it might not seem like it now but God has a plan for us all. If you need to, put the truck aside and focus on saving your marriage. Do what ever it takes. If in the end it doesn't work out at least you won't regret it later.

My family will pray for your family.

Brice.

 

Got a chance to fool around with the truck a few times. It was still running poorly and AE showing all 4 passenger side injectors high side open with IDM code on injector buzz test. Pulled the IDM and ohm'd out the passenger side harness. It ohm'd out fine. Took my IDM and hooked it to my fathers truck trying to confirm that the IDM is bad. My fathers truck ran fine with my IDM

I have no idea what to do at this point. I am just trying to get it back to running and eating oil...

What could be causing the high side open and IDM code even though the IDM is checking out and the harness Ohm's out okay? Could the harness be breaking down because of the 120 volts but Ohm out okay?

Anyone know a great diagnostic diesel mechanic in the Baltimore area?

 

I too have not read the whole thread but scanned it for harness questions. Didn't see anything about disconnecting at the valve cover harness plug and looking for burnt pins. Might show ok with no load but not work once current starts flowing.

 

I bought a new one, just have not installed it yet. I will pull the connector and take a look next time i get a chance. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I've been doing a lot of reading on the injectors to figure out what could be going on with your truck. The solenoid on the injector opens the valve to let your ICP push the fuel out, and it closes the drain valve at the same time. If you have so much as one stick not closing the drain valve, I assume it would go back up to the drain spout. I don't know if you looked at the drain spouts to see if one injector was giving too much oil or too little.

This doesn't point directly to a possible cause, because the oil is returning to the pan. BUT... if the oil spout looks hinky in any way - like bubbles, fuel, too much oil, dead, or whatever - you have something to focus on.

As for the open IDM alarm, I've had that very thing happen on a member's Excursion while on a winter vacation. I popped up there to help out and his UVCH and VC gasket were both fried.

 

Marty's Diesel Performance
Elkton, MD
410-392-3262
if he can't fix it it ain't broke