Still having a cooling problem
#16
#17
#20
#22
Got word back from the radiator shop today and there are no flow issues so its not plugged up. Hoping to pull the inter-cooler today and see what that looks like.
#23
The only way I have been able to break the fan loose is with an F wrench big enough to hold the pulley mounting bolts or by renting the water pump wrench from autozone. I have heard of guys using an air chisel to break it loose but have never tried myself.
#24
#25
#27
There are a couple of ways that the hose can collapse:
Bad cap on the degas bottle. The cap has a vacuum release check valve. When the engine cools down and wants to pull in coolant from the degas bottle, the cap allows air to enter the degas bottle to replace the coolant pulled into the engine. The other very slim possibility is that the small hose out the bottom of the degas bottle is kinked, which prevents the engine from pulling coolant from the degas bottle. Either way, that upper radiator hose is cut deep enough that it needs to be replaced. Hoses are cheap, engines are not. I suggest an OEM degas bottle cap. There are some aftermarket caps that do not work properly. The odds are the cap is causing that hose to collapse. When under normal operating pressure (15 Psi) they should not collapse. Larry
Bad cap on the degas bottle. The cap has a vacuum release check valve. When the engine cools down and wants to pull in coolant from the degas bottle, the cap allows air to enter the degas bottle to replace the coolant pulled into the engine. The other very slim possibility is that the small hose out the bottom of the degas bottle is kinked, which prevents the engine from pulling coolant from the degas bottle. Either way, that upper radiator hose is cut deep enough that it needs to be replaced. Hoses are cheap, engines are not. I suggest an OEM degas bottle cap. There are some aftermarket caps that do not work properly. The odds are the cap is causing that hose to collapse. When under normal operating pressure (15 Psi) they should not collapse. Larry
#28
There are a couple of ways that the hose can collapse:
Bad cap on the degas bottle. The cap has a vacuum release check valve. When the engine cools down and wants to pull in coolant from the degas bottle, the cap allows air to enter the degas bottle to replace the coolant pulled into the engine. The other very slim possibility is that the small hose out the bottom of the degas bottle is kinked, which prevents the engine from pulling coolant from the degas bottle. Either way, that upper radiator hose is cut deep enough that it needs to be replaced. Hoses are cheap, engines are not. I suggest an OEM degas bottle cap. There are some aftermarket caps that do not work properly. The odds are the cap is causing that hose to collapse. When under normal operating pressure (15 Psi) they should not collapse. Larry
Bad cap on the degas bottle. The cap has a vacuum release check valve. When the engine cools down and wants to pull in coolant from the degas bottle, the cap allows air to enter the degas bottle to replace the coolant pulled into the engine. The other very slim possibility is that the small hose out the bottom of the degas bottle is kinked, which prevents the engine from pulling coolant from the degas bottle. Either way, that upper radiator hose is cut deep enough that it needs to be replaced. Hoses are cheap, engines are not. I suggest an OEM degas bottle cap. There are some aftermarket caps that do not work properly. The odds are the cap is causing that hose to collapse. When under normal operating pressure (15 Psi) they should not collapse. Larry
Larry thanks for the insight on that. I had ordered an OE cap which I swapped out this morning upon reassembly. Oh, the picture of the nicked hose is from Rich and not my truck although I will be sure and zip tie mine into place. .
I took another picture of the radiator after cleaning to so you could see the difference between the two. Now, admittedly this is a 'car wash' cleaning and not professional so be gentile with me here. The truck needs a new radiator due to some hair line cracks that I found around the lower hose area so doing a full on professional cleaning is a waste and a new radiator will be going in when finances permit.
In the process of all of that, I slipped with the strap wrench and busted the EBPS and had to tear out the tube and replace the sensor. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise being that the end of the tube and the sensor were completely blocked off.
#29
Ok here's whats been done so far.
1. New T-Stat that was boil tested for opening
2. New fan clutch installed
3. Radiator cleaned and flow tested
4. Coolant changed (againt, just done two years ago)
5. New upper and lower hoses
6. New recovery tank and OE cap
Here are the results of a 110 mile trip with A/C on full blast and 85 degree day with the cruise set at 65 and lots of change in grade.
The begining
Near the end
After changing speed and getting off of a grade.
I've made a dent in the problem but I just haven't gotten to the root of it yet.
1. New T-Stat that was boil tested for opening
2. New fan clutch installed
3. Radiator cleaned and flow tested
4. Coolant changed (againt, just done two years ago)
5. New upper and lower hoses
6. New recovery tank and OE cap
Here are the results of a 110 mile trip with A/C on full blast and 85 degree day with the cruise set at 65 and lots of change in grade.
The begining
Near the end
After changing speed and getting off of a grade.
I've made a dent in the problem but I just haven't gotten to the root of it yet.