Feel free to snitch it. Just a cell phone photo.
I just bought the missing piece for the hood trim the other day.
After doing a lot of reading it seems I should have either grabbed the intake from the 71 engine, as the heads will likely flow better anyway and match the intake, or go back and get the EFI intake and use one of these:
Fender width is the same F1-6 trucks. Fenders get wider on F7-8 and COE trucks. F2-6 fenders have a larger wheelwell opening than the F1. F7-8 and COE have an even larger wheelwell opening than the F1-6 trucks.
Step by step I am acquiring the items to make what I want. Yes, the fenders are not wide enough....or wide enough to run Mustang wheels anyway. Need a higher offset. So I can cut it down and weld it back shorter, but I am concerned about the weight on a weld like that. Engine is in the 1,200 pound range. Double what that front end was designed to carry. I think it would still hold the weight, but any hard use would result in failure at some point. I've considered getting the engine crossmember from the truck as well and weld that into the frame. I doubt it will fit easily. Almost better starting with a whole new homemade frame at that point. But at least I could drop the body to the ground if I wanted.
I am now wondering more about the Jag front end. I can get plenty of those. Cheap at the pick and pull.
I'd need to find out how wide they are though.
A 7.3 Powerstroke is a rather large engine....compared to my daughter who thought it was really neat.
Keeping the truck well watered for photos as it is used daily as a photo prop still. I now have the missing trim piece.... have a whole set I bought but only going to use the single piece. Just need to find clips to mount it and repair the weld on the hood skin so the sheet metal does not flex when closing it.
I am still going for a dually rear end but will put it right behind the cab. Junk the bed which has no value at this point.
Hope to yank motor soon and verify internal conditions of it. I'll sell it if I find no obvious cracks. Otherwise I'll make an art project or scrap it for a few bucks.
Just get the engine to run. Than drive her as is.
Busted windows and head light and green slime
and all. Definitely will prolly get the most original
trophy for sure. So cool just the way she is.
Than have a boom box on the seat playing
Billy Joel's rendition of " I Love You Just The way
You Are". Heck ya, I would do it for sure.
It's gonna kill ya when ya have to clean it up for
body work Bud.
Yeah, I would love if the moss and lichen would stay growing on it. Forever.
After much deep thinking on the issue I have decided to sell the Crown Vic front end I have been sitting on for it and will go with the old Jag set up.
The weight of the big motor will just be too great. I figure the steel will just be better and can be welded in. I have access to a few Jags right now so see no need to modify the CV to fit and it will be too weak anyway.
The original straight axle is just fine for the
interstate driving most do today. It will handle
speeds in excess of 100 MPH. Add power duel
res disk brakes and power steering and save a
years fab work. Ya would be driving her much
sooner. I and others see little advantage to an IFS.
If any. If ya weigh the cost of the IFS against any
advantage over the straight axle It just don't ad up.
This truck is getting dropped as low as I can get it without doing bags. Stock axle is not what I want. I can get the Jag set up for about $200. Maybe a little less. I own all the steel needed for fabrication, unless I build a 100% new frame. Roof is getting chopped down.
This is not a pretty build, but a rat rod. I may spend a lot of time after it is driving making the interior posh.
I am already frustrated at myself for taking this long getting it going. I could pull the engine and get it going now with a simple 302 swap, but have a desire to build a crazy jalopy.
I am not a guy who takes years to do a project.
I decided to turbo my car...... collected all the parts for a 100% conversion and spent a Saturday doing it.
I got bored with that and converted the old GEO Storm from turbo to an Oldsmobile motor with a homemade ECM (Megasquirt) using the stock transverse manual trans..... that took 2 weeks. Programmed the car and drove it. This includes custom made clutch, motor mounts, plumbing, adapters to make everything work.
The F100 with complete '04 Crown Vic swap took about 2 months of weekends because I live about 100 miles from the shop where I do my side projects. I was working 50+ hrs a week during that time. Crafted my own harness, fuel system, and have complete ABS, VAPS, emissions compliant, cruise, custom power brakes and all.
Current plans are to do this over the holidays. I'll tear it down on Thanksgiving, and return around Xmas time and New years to get busy. I am in no rush to get it done, but I have a very strong mind when it comes to knowing all the little things that will be needed before hand and working out the mechanics in my head before the build. We have breaks and rollers and shears for all the sheet metal. Drill presses, mill, lathe, welders, lifts and make anything happen.
Well as I said above, I would get some work done on this over the weekend. Sadly I had a crappy oil pan job on a Dodge to do that burned my Thanksgiving Day up...... wife was thrilled.
So only about 2 days work done. I was ill for Sunday and had to drive home (100 miles in the country) Short days at that..... maybe 10-12 hours total. Normally on projects of this nature I am working 10-16 hours each day.
I towed the truck with my '67 and got it in the shop. Step one was to yank the front end.
The old original engine turns smooth as butter and is for sale if anyone needs it.
Build date stamp says March of 1951.
Finally cleaned out the interior.... it was really nasty with decades of rat ****.
This is the yoke from a 1997 F350. I was mid-cut while doing this but it came apart pretty nicely.
Trimmed a bit and first guess on where it would fit:
Here is a closer idea of where the 7.3 will ride:
Close fit. Yes I know the harmonic balancer is coming apart. Also the water pump is not bolted down I was test fitting the assembly. That is the junk fan anyway. I have another that is straight.
Amount required for transmission fitment. I am using a ZF5. I have a solid flywheel for it. Going to get the clutch rebuilt.
Turbo clearance is not as bad as you might expect. Current plan is to use a tight radius elbow/V-band piece to bring the exhaust forward then around through the passenger fender and out the back side.
Very nice fit.
As I left it Saturday night.
I am aware of wrapping the turbo, and firewall protections, and overloading the front end, and the ****ty condition of my truck. I am building a rat, so looks are not important to me on this build. I have built a number of projects over the years and don't give a rats **** about certain things. Right now, very few hard changes were made to the truck itself to get this done. I was prepared to remove the whole original firewall, but it was not needed as it turns out.
As guys above said, the stock springs held the engine up really well. I was amazed that there about between a 1/2-3/4" drop total. (no transmission)
Stock steering linkage would work. Not sure if I wish to retain it though. I have a power steering pump on the motor.
I am looking into brakes, my rear end choice and tons of other factors. I have a mess of various aspects I need to detail in my mind before I can work on it again.
Inner fenders will be severely modified, mostly due to the radiator which is a monster. Front crossmember needs a window opened up for the fan blade. Front horns after the front springs will be removed, and new wider radiator frame will be fabricated. New mounting for the front end will be fabricated.
Currently I think I can make diskbrakes from a newer era truck fit. I still have tons of hours of thinking to get done. (75% of my builds are done in my head and all details are worked out on what will work, not work and how to make stuff not meant to be together fit together.)
Frame is getting boxed in. Bed is pretty much junk. I have little wrecker boom to install either in the bed or on a flatbed.
I am looking for a dually rear end with a speed sensor in it for a Ford. 94.5-1998 manual trans brake assembly. 95-97 accelerator pedal assembly. Alt, starter, fuel tank, seats, gauges that will work with my drivetrain.
I am selling all parts not being used. I cut the trans crossmember with a torch, but most parts are taken off nicer. Transmission is a 4 speed. (double clutchin')
Rear end should have a 4.86. Engine should be rebuilt. I have the stock heater box, and not sure if I'll use it or go with AC and fab up my own unit.
I hope over Xmas I'll have more time to apply to the build.
This post is more an update about parts rather than progress.
Got a pedal assembly for the manual trans with matching booster, and MC. I also got the accelerator pedal, starter and alt finally.
I traded the old flathead for a dually rear axle. Sterling 10.25 with a 4.10 out of a 97 F350. Came with wheels, lugs and usable tires. Sadly I cannot shorten the axle like I want. Shorter is easy on the housing, but the shafts taper down after the splined section. I cannot seem to find aftermarkets under $700 that can be chopped and cut to fit.
Also trying to find out the differences in the single and dual mass flywheels. I have a SMF, and the matching clutch..... but want new. Not sure why the single is so much more.
Currently the only parts needed to make the engine run is a serpentine belt, coolant and battery....and diesel fuel source. Exhaust is going to wrap forward of the firewall and into the fender area.
Must of the mechanical is figured out pretty quick.
I can use the stock steering wheel and gear box, but want to find a better solution still.
Thus far the only break in my preset rules for the build is buying a new glow plug relay off eBay. Everything else has been bartered or junkyarded.