The neat thing I learned about this NOS kit I got is that it will work with both 33 1/2" or 37 1/2" frames. I just want one from a highboy to be sure. I'll post you a pic when I find good one. Nothing special, just diamond plate on top and turns up at the bed to help cover the bed pan if you call it that.

 

Here are some pics, but not perfect examples. They both are bent some. 1976 Ford F-250 Highboy Story by david-Barney-Ephrem | Photobucket

 

Here's my convoluted thinking: When I ordered my bumper from BO, their info said "for mounting holes 36 1/2", so I mistakenly interpreted that to mean it was for the wider frame. But the factory mounts require a few extra inches of width between, so the holes are actually drilled 40" apart! The 36 1/2" is for a highboy frame. I should have made sure before I ever ordered, but it was the only size listed, so there was nothing to compare it to. 36 is closer to 37 than it is to 33, so I thought I was ordering the correct size. Plus, there are a whole lot more 37 1/2 framed Dents out there versus highboys, so with only one listed as being reproduced, I just figured it would be for the majority of trucks out there. WRONG!

David

 

I think their dimensions are hole widths, not frame widths. Some dealers list for the frame width, others not. We have to be smart enough to figure it out cause most of the people that work for these places can't.

 

(pic by david-Barney-Ephrem)
Interesting that the mounting holes on that style bumper are way out to the ends. What do your mounts look like?

David

 

And THAT is why I'm in the fix I'm in! D'oh!

David

 

Check out the last page in my build thread.

 

Those mounts look very stout! Cool find!

David

 

Now all I need is a fricken bumper. All the aftermarket stuff doesn't have holes in the bumper and you have to use their brackets which are suspect at best for strength.

 

I'm so excited! I just scored an almost perfect cruise control steering wheel on eBay!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261807844313?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I can't wait for it to arrive! The cruise control in my truck works great, but that old cracked up wheel was going to be very difficult to repair, and the retaining hardware for the switches is broken and missing.



Just yesterday, I ordered some POR-15 epoxy putty to repair the wheel, but knew it was going to be a stopgap measure (no pun intended) until I could find a nice replacement.
Never dreamed one would appear today!

I will probably use my original wood-grained horn pad on the new wheel, I think mine just might be better, but other than that, it appears to be super nice.

David

 

Nice score there David. It's fun when you find those hard to find items. Like a treasure hunt of sorts.

 

When I got my slots and new tires, I ordered the appropriate lug nuts, but I've had nothing but trouble with them since. Back when I was first installing them, I messed up the studs on the right rear, my fault. But I was able to chase the threads and clean them up. But the lugs have not been easy to screw down ever since. I just told myself it was due to the earlier issues. But when removing the LEFT rear wheel, the lug nuts of two of the studs were incredibly hard to turn. I used a breakover bar on my T-wrench and ended up actually shearing off one of the studs and breaking another in the hub, resulting in my having to grind off that lug and stud. How I didn't ruin my beautiful aluminum slot is a miracle.



I now have to install two new studs, order more lug nuts. I'm almost to the point of just installing some plain steel wheels and caps. I love these slots, but I'm not sure they are worth the trouble I've had so far.

My question (questions) is this: Why am I having such trouble with these lug nuts? Obviously, I wish I had used some sort of an anti-seizing compound on the studs, but was that something I should have known?

David

 

Are you sure they're the right thread pitch and you didn't cross-thread them on? Are they just cheap Chinese junk with poor tolerances?

 

I did mess up the threads on the right rear wheel months ago, but was able to fix up the threads, and though the lug nuts were stubborn to remove yesterday, they did come off. The left rear lug nuts were installed with no trouble, and I'm certain I didn't cross-thread them. The lugs aren't cheapies, they are Gorilla brand 9/16" X 18 2.4" chrome acorn mag seats.

I'm dreading removing the front wheels, because I never dreamed the left rear would give me trouble.

I just googled "using anti-seize on lug nuts". Seems to be a pretty common problem, and most of the input on the various search results are in favor of using it. After what I went through yesterday, I will definitely be using some.

David

 

I've previously mentioned the black widow spider, or spiders, up under my truck, but I figured it would most certainly be dead by now. There has been quite a few days this winter of days in the teens, and I couldn't imagine a spider would live through temps like that. Wrong! Yesterday, while messing with my left rear wheel, I saw the tell-tale messy webs in the slots. After hours of wrestling with and finally grinding the lugs off the studs, I managed to get the wheel off. I turned it over to clean it off, and found Elvira, the black widow spider that has been living under my truck since it arrived from California in April of last year. I actually touched it before I realized it was still alive.







David