1994 F-250, 5.8 L, 8 Lug Wheel

Finally put my first rotor, caliper and pads on the Rt. side today, but didn't finih up yet . Have to go back and re-connect the hydraulic hoses line to the Caliper. There's appear to be a copper washer on the hex nut I removed, but can't get it off. Two new copper washers come with the new caliper. Put one on the hex nut over the old washer and one on the bottom of the connection fitting (small rectangular block that attaches to the caliper?

Maybe there's also a copper washer in the caliper that I need to remove?

Ok, well I searched and looks like the copper washers go on top and bottom of the "banjo" fitting (the small rectangular block I mentioned). Still grateful for input as to whether I need to get that old washer off the hex nut, or not. I'll have to look closer at the banjo fitting to see if there's a washer on there also.

 

Always best to get the old washers off, to prevent leaks in the future.

 

Thx Bob - I just came in from taking off the old washer. I screwed the hex head bolt into the old caliper and used a small cold chisel to knock the washer loose. Screwdriver would've worked of course.

 

Yup. Good call. Stacking those copper washers is a recipe for a leak. They can be a bitch to get off once they're crushed.

 

Thx Steel~, The only torque wrench I have too big (begins at 30 ft.lbs) and I won't be able to get a smaller one tomorrow - not even a $20.00 one. Can you relate how I should fake it? I may not sound like it but I do a lot of mechanical-type work, so if you have a comparison that would give me an idea...

If not, I'll just use my own judgment on the lighter side and see if it works, then tighten it up a bit more if not, till leak stops. Someone called them Crush Washers so they must be kinda soft no doubt. Too little is better than too much at first, which would require another trip to the parts store.

Well actually, I should be asking you what the torque spec is if you know? Approximate would be OK, yepper.

Edit: I just thought of another way - Doing the left caliper tomorrow. I suppose I could take notice of how much torque is on that one.

 

Never torqued them, lol. Always did "GERMAN" tight. "GUUDNTIGHT" lol. You'll be able to "feel" when the washer starts to crush. Don't use taking the old one off as a judgement.

 

What I had in mind was something more like marking the position of the hex head, loosening it, the noticing the feel to get it back to its original position, but since they're crush washers, that wouldn't work. Wouldn't be crushing the washer as in the tightening of it during original installation. Just doing it according to experience and feeling the "crush" is better.