This might help you decide what you want to do.
A Buildup of Ford's Classic Inline Six | Horsepower | PowerBlockTV - Full Episodes

 

Thanks for the link. Not sure how hi-po I want to make this thing, if I do a rebuild. It's a tow vehicle and construction material hauler. That said, I'm definitely open to any improvements that can be done.

 

Hey f150xlt,

Good info. Question just to clarify

Are you saying the factory parts last approx 175K?

Reason I ask is I am running a new to me 95 300 six 5 speed and it has 172k miles now. All sounds good and running fine since I fixed the fuel pump ground problem that stopped the previous owner from driving it.

Thanks, Joe W

 

That was my experience with my 88 that I purchased new.

Here's a thread about a knocking sound at 198K but the gears didn't completely fail until 275K. I'd say he got his money's worth.

4.9L died on the interstate today. Help! - Ford F150 Forum

What's interesting is Ford used a fiber timing gear on the Model A that also made a knocking sound when it was close to failing. LOL.

 

I wish I could post my mileage. The truck itself has 196k miles, but the engine is on from a junkyard. It could have 40k or 200k. I simply don't know.

I still haven't decided if I'll rebuild. I think I'll put the truck in my bay today and start trying to get at the gears.

Any tips for how to get the old fiber gear off without turning the cam? I'd like to make it as easy as possible and also try to avoid having to re-time the engine

 

Thanks for the info. Now I know what to look/ listen for.

Funny, that the Ford was using fibre gears way back when. I didn't know that.
GM used them in many 70's engines. Not sure if/ when it changed.
Fibre is supposed to be much quieter than steel.

 

Before you try to remove the camshaft gear, note how far the gear is pressed onto the camshaft so you can reinstall the new one in the same position.

Below is a picture of the tools the factory techs use. My guess is the gear will crumble so break the rest of it off and grind and split the metal collar off. Just make sure no metal particles end up in the engine.

Using your hands rotate the camshaft gear to get the alignment dot in the proper position. To move the crankshaft gear, use a wrench on the crankshaft damper bolt to move the crank gear to the proper position. (Dot to Dot) as shown in one of the pictures below.

Taking the spark pugs out will make it easier to turn the engine over. As long as you don't pull the distributor, the timing should not change.

The nose of the camshaft is tapped for a bolt. To install the new camshaft gear you can can use a 7/16 inch NC 14 threaded bolt and use a stack of washers or shims to press the gear back on. The gear is keyed to the camshaft so you can hold the gear while you tighten the bolt to press the gear back on.

To install the crank gear, I used the metal pipe from a jack stand and tapped it back on.

The timing gears are a matched set so don't even think about taking a short cut and only replacing the camshaft gear.

 

All,

I got the cover off. All I had to remove was the harmonic balancer, fan and clutch and water pump. So far it's been pretty straight forward.

While the timing gear had not completely disintegrated, it is missing teeth from almost half of the entire gear. All in one patch, too.

My new gears are in. I'm hoping to install soon.

I just hope this solves my knocking issue, as well. If not, I'll pull it and rebuild her. But I'm hopeful that is not necessary.

 

I'm wondering how this job turned out. Were you able to get the gear off without it crumbling? Did it go back together and run without knocking? Run into any difficulties along the way? I have a 95 F150 I6 with about 192k miles, so I might have to do this job myself in the future.

 

I haven't had a chance to get the gear off yet. I've put a puller on it, but the steel collar that attaches the gear to the cam has not budged. The gear is starting to crumble.

I'll post back with results when she's back together.

 

F150xlt,

I have another question. I got the new timing gear on, no problem. However, my crankshaft gear has three cut outs for a keyway. I've got the crankshaft gear in place and the dots aligned.

However, how do I know for certain I've used the correct keyway on the timing gear? I want to ensure my #1 cylinder is TDC and the valves are doing what they're supposed to before I put all this back together.

I think I have it all on correctly. But I sure as hell don't want to discover that's not the case after I put everything back on. I don't believe I turned the crankshaft, but I want to make sure everything is copacetic while I still have her torn down.

 

Your aftermarket timing set allows you to advance the timing by using a different key way. Example if you used a different key way when the dots match cylinder one piston would be set at 3 degrees Before Top Dead Center
instead of zero degrees.

There should be instructions in the box explaining what the different key way positions do.

Change the oil and see if any fiber gear material drains out. Some larger chunks may be stuck to the oil pickup screen. Only way to clean them out is to drop the pan or just drive the vehicle and monitor the oil pressure.

Here's a picture of the key way you should use in relation to the dot on the gear.

 

All,

I have the truck back together and she purrs pretty well. No knocking noise

Well, at least until I came to a stop at a red light. The rpm kept dipping and rising, but finally evened out.

However, there's definitely a knock coming from the timing cover. My question is, was I supposed to run a bolt and washer into the cam shaft to hold the cam gear in place? I don't remember taking one out.

I ask because I got the gear back in place and closed her up. She runs well, but after coming to a stop after cruising a while, she idles at 1100 rpm (same as before timing gear replacement), but there's a knock from the timing gear. It sounds almost as if the timing gear is tapping the cover.

However, once I blip the throttle, it goes away. It's not a continuous knocking, by any means.

Any thoughts on what this could be? Do I need to pull her back down and press the cam gear on further?

 

Sounds like the gear is not pressed on all the way and it's giving excessive camshaft play.

 

I think you're correct. Any notion on how I can achieve the proper spacing when pressing it on further? I don't want to have to take it apart again to adjust again