1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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My 1978 F350 Build

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  #16  
Old 09-15-2014, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
Looks really good!

Couple questions: Any idea why the POR15 flaked off?

How do you plan to lower the truck? Hate to have you redo the frame for a 3rd time because of modifications for lowering.
The POR 15 flaked off from either bad prep on my end or the product. Mostly its bad prep, Ive never used, and never will again, but it was probably my fault.

The areas I modify can just be resprayed, no problem, its going to be suspension components anyway, not the frame itself.
 
  #17  
Old 09-16-2014, 01:02 AM
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Just wondering about the lowering because since you have an F-350 you can swap to the 1/2 ton I-beam pivot brackets that mount in the extra holes higher up and that will help with lowering. It does however require getting some and cutting out the rivets to bolt the new ones on.
 
  #18  
Old 09-16-2014, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
Just wondering about the lowering because since you have an F-350 you can swap to the 1/2 ton I-beam pivot brackets that mount in the extra holes higher up and that will help with lowering. It does however require getting some and cutting out the rivets to bolt the new ones on.
I never thought of that, sounds like a good idea. How much do you think it would it lower it? Thanks for the input.
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:09 AM
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Excellent! That blue looks great too. - Ed
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:48 PM
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I believe that that the DJM beams are for 1/2 ton trucks so you may need to do it for the alignment to be correct anyway. The lighter trucks sit a couple inches lower than the 3/4 ton and bigger trucks. You might have some difficulty with King Pin size if you go to the 1/2 ton pivots and beams and try to use your 3/4 ton spindles as there is 3 different King Pin sizes.

It's just an observation/idea that I've had and would require more research. My 2wd is currently lifted and will be getting bigger so my research concerns the opposite of what you're trying to achieve.
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
I believe that that the DJM beams are for 1/2 ton trucks so you may need to do it for the alignment to be correct anyway. The lighter trucks sit a couple inches lower than the 3/4 ton and bigger trucks. You might have some difficulty with King Pin size if you go to the 1/2 ton pivots and beams and try to use your 3/4 ton spindles as there is 3 different King Pin sizes.

It's just an observation/idea that I've had and would require more research. My 2wd is currently lifted and will be getting bigger so my research concerns the opposite of what you're trying to achieve.
Thats kind of what I have been trying to figure out, definitely need to do more research, but I appreciate the info. Thanks
 
  #22  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:43 PM
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Here is the frame redone. I had it sandblasted then it was coated with primer and top coated in gloss black













 
  #23  
Old 09-18-2014, 09:51 PM
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Frame looks good.... again.
 
  #24  
Old 09-18-2014, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
Frame looks good.... again.
Thanks, I hope this is the last again though. Don't want to redo it ever again.
 
  #25  
Old 09-18-2014, 10:45 PM
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I know there are people who have good luck with POR15, but I wasnt one of them. I do good prep, but mine still flaked off. To me, paint is easier. Your feame looks good. Keep it up
 
  #26  
Old 09-19-2014, 08:05 AM
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I wouldnt recommend them, except there degreaser works really good. Thats about the only thing I was happy with after it all.
 
  #27  
Old 09-20-2014, 09:39 PM
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I don't want to beat a dead horse and I'm sure you're plenty hot over having to re-do it. I just wanted to ask you about the flaking off part. Was it doing it down to bare metal or was just the second coat pealing off?

Thanks and you are doing a fantastic job!
 
  #28  
Old 09-22-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KIKKUP
I don't want to beat a dead horse and I'm sure you're plenty hot over having to re-do it. I just wanted to ask you about the flaking off part. Was it doing it down to bare metal or was just the second coat pealing off?

Thanks and you are doing a fantastic job!
I read an article not to long ago about POR 15 and another rust converter product (can't remember but I'll try to find the article) all they had to say about the POR 15 was to not use it because of the required prep work. They had a picture of where they had finished prepping the part and then set a pop or beer can on it for a little bit, put on the POR 15 and then shortly after it started to peel and bubble only over where the can had been.


I'll try and find the article I think I have it saved somewhere...
 
  #29  
Old 09-22-2014, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by KIKKUP
I don't want to beat a dead horse and I'm sure you're plenty hot over having to re-do it. I just wanted to ask you about the flaking off part. Was it doing it down to bare metal or was just the second coat pealing off?

Thanks and you are doing a fantastic job!
I didn't go to bare bare metal, I supposedly didn't have too. Both the second and first coat flaked off.
 
  #30  
Old 09-25-2014, 06:08 PM
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I'll be watching your build very closely. I've got a 77 f150 I'm thing about restoring. It's mostly has been a florida truck, but has some significant rust I would have to deal with. It really is probably not a truck worthy of a rebuild, but it has some sentimental value, so I think I'll give it a go, and if I mess it up, oh well.

I know I can get several patch panels, but my main concern is rust under the drip edge over the top of the door. I've got holes so big I can fit my fingers through them, so I guess Im going to try my hand at fabricating some parts. Luckily it is in an inconspicuous spot with the door closed.


By the way, I'm not far from you. I'm in Bonita Springs. I've bought many cars at Sam Galloway. Glad to see someone else way down here taking an interest in the best looking generation of trucks ever made. (IMO of course)
 


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