When I did the hutch mod this summer, I couldn't get rid of the air bubbles that were showing up when I ran the Wix #33007.

You can read more about the trial and error in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hutch-mod.html

Long story short, the glass Mr Gasket #9747 (5/16") is what I ended up using. No bubbles and no issues so far. Haven't even had a gelling issue that I've seen a couple people complain about in the 0F we've been having lately.

 

in relation to this topic i too am running the big spin on filter pre pump. It had a baldwin bf1212. I have been replacing them once a year. Baldwin is hard to find in my area so i had car quest cross reference it with there filters made by WIX. The filter is 14micron with a 12gpm flow rate paper filter media. Dose this sound normal ? I do not have a fuel pressure gauge and was curious if this is restricting or has a decent flow rate or what one would consider acceptable.

I did the hutch mod and all works great. Just do not want to pre maturely wear out my pump due to a filter thats too restricting. I know that folks say to get rid of them or switch to a rascor but if the spin on will filter like the stock screens and provide enough flow then i don't see anything wrong with them. But I'm not an expert and hope someone might have the info on it. Im not sure how restrictive microns of filtering can be along with gpm of flow

 

I believe I am running a 10 micron spin-on filter at the tank after doing the hutch mod, and it has worked fine for several years. No indication of fuel issues. I decided the spin-on was inexpensive and disposable and that a Racor setup was a bit of overkill for my uses of the truck. 12 GPM is a huge flow rate, so I don't see an issue there, even if the filter were somewhat plugged.

 

Disregard,thinking of wrong filter.

 

bbt running that filter should not be a problem in a warm environment, (or cold with that flow rating). I think that our fuel pumps flow 30 plus gallons per hour, any help from others that know precise flow ratings.

 

Cool thanks sgarder. I haven't studied much in this field which i should have before doing a mod LOL but i got an itchy trigger finger sometimes. I did the mod like 2 or 3 years back and was curious now as to how the flow of the filter would compare to the Racor ps120-02. The least restriction is optimal but filtration is good also. I visually see the screens in the tank are really corse trapping large particles. Same from what i can see on the Racor filter. Just don't want over kill to kill something else.

In turn i need to rig up a FP gauge. (Gotta find the time) but want to see if my pressure is in check. Just trying to rule out things so when i hook it up i know what could be a problem. Ive been getting a slight twitch every now and again and think it might be pressure related.

 

Speaking to the world in general (the internet is watching), without targeting any one person - my thoughts:

There's absolutely nothing wrong with the stock fuel filter housing with an OEM cartridge. It works for what it was intended - the fuel is clean and the water is blocked. Why filter fuel before filtering? With that approach, shouldn't there be a third filter? How about a fourth? Where exactly is the line drawn for overkill?

The job of the pre-pump screen is to keep chunks out of the pump inlet - that's it. No other duty is needed pre-pump. If you want water separation, just about any housing will let water fall to the bottom. When I dropped my tank after 13 years, there were two teeny-tiny droplets of water in there - the fuel filter can easily handle those.

Filtering restricts the fluid flow - period. It may be a little, it may be a lot, but it's a restriction. A restriction on the pressure side of the pump is no big deal, unless it's a big restriction. A restriction on the vacuum side of the pump is a disaster. Little restrictions become big restrictions. Firmly press a pillow to your face for a second. What's harder - inhaling or exhaling? The inlet side of the pump is where it inhales.

A mod is nothing more than an experiment until you know the results in a measurable way. SOTP will suffice for a dyno in many cases, but fuel mods need a fuel pressure gauge to verify the mod's validity. I did this. The spin-on filter sucked... or at least prevented the pump from sucking. You may have different results than I, but we'll never know without your fuel pressure gauge.

 

Lets not forget that, too, that inside the OEM pump housing inlet is a 72 mesh screen, and this is something which can neither be removed nor modified from the system unless you go to a completely different pump which has no inlet screen built into it.

 

Rich damn good point (I like the pillow concept!!!) I was just looking at flow ratings on the filters, but the PS 120 series Fuel Strainer/Prefilters installation manual states "Vacuum installations are recommended." So that tells me screens not filters before fuel pump. Especially since the factory used only screens. Hope I didn't open a can of worms. Sorry.

 

Baldwin BF1212 pre pump filter and Baldwin BF7633 post pump filter with a stock pump on my Super Duty running 160/100. Fuel pressure gauge twitches a tiny bit at WOT, but holds strong. Pressure is set at less than a needles width over 60psi and at WOT the needle doesn't drop below the 60psi mark.

The BF1212 has proven to me on multiple trucks to be just fine with a healthy stock pump. If you think you need less filtering pre pump, the Baldwin BF1252 filters at 9 micron @ 86% and 40 micron at 99%. I'm using that filter on the new fuel system setup on my OBS with a Fuelab pump.

 

Except for the Hutch mod with 3/8" fuel hose and the Racor, my fuel system is stock. I have the Fuel Pressure sensor installed post-filter on the bowl. The pressure is set to 60 PSI, and WOT takes the pressure down to 55 PSI. Talking with other owners of 160/100 sticks, they share the same numbers I have - but that's a limited sampling. I wonder if we have an issue with ours or if you have something different in your truck.

 

I run a complete Driven Diesel fuel system. In tank mods, pre-pump filter, post pump filter, regulated return feeding the front of both cylinder heads. Every fuel line from the tank to the heads was replaced. Fuel pressure sending unit is in the regulator.

 

I also have the Racor and fuel pressure gauge after fuel bowl filter. Pressure does not drop below 50-55. I was not fond of the little plastic in line filter and not fond of spin on filters which you cannot see inside. The Racor housing is clear so you can see what is going on inside and is a screen that does not restrict very much. For me it is peace of mind to catch any large sediment. Yes there is some "grime" (very little) in the bottom of the clear housing so it is doing something. It is a nice filter. BTW I use 5/16 hose. because it fits better and is still larger ID than stock rigid line. 3/8 is a little loose.

 

I was not able to get one like that to seal properly the ends just crushed.

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/ctg/Baldwin-...lter-/78956438

found this on ebay.. the Baldwin BF 7725 filter for 2.75 each.. shipping is a flat 2.50, On the guys website the shipping is 7.00 This is a Mercedes parts place in texas.

I got 2 on the way.. that way i have a spare one in the glove box, along with the spare CPS, the spare this, the spare that. etc..