see pic 20 for the CPP drag link lowerign block

I tried driving straight after installing by dropped beam and yes it was scary. Heating up the steering arm sort it right out and then the CPP lowering block also helps a lot.

 

I have a drop axle from PMT and it has some draglink 'raisers' that move the draglink up.

1953-1960 F100 CNC MACHINED TUBULAR DROPPED AXLE | pmtfabrication.com

You may want to call and see what PMT sells them for. I can't remember!

 

I also have a 3" drop from Sid, as well as reversed eye main leafs, and every other leaf removed. I installed 4 degree caster wedges when I assembled the front axle. Sits pretty low, but I have no problems at all with bump steer. The truck sits almost perfectly level, the rear may be 1/2 in higher than the front. When figuring caster, don't forget to allow for that. If the rear sits higher than the front you need to add that to your caster measurement.

 

How exactly do you calculate that? If you level the frame then set the caster, the raise in the rear causes the caster to increase (go positive), correct? So measuring the caster with all wheels on the ground is the correct approach?

 

I pretty much have the same setup! expect its a 56. I haven't drove the truck yet, but it sits great! this may be a bonehead question, but the shims you installed for the axle, the THICK part goes towards the cab, correct?

 

I calculated mine by setting it on all 4 wheels with the drivetrain and cab installed. If you raise the rear the caster will DECREASE. Think of it like the front of a bicycle... Caster angle is measured from the center of the spindle through the topmost mounting point of the spindle (top of the kingpin). You always want the spindle farther forward than the upper mounting point. More caster is better, it will increase stability, but will also make it harder to turn the steering wheel. 4-6 degrees total caster is what you're looking for.

 

Yes, thick part towards the cab.