Installed new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on all four corners and new front sway bar links/bushings. No more front end clunk and the ride is better.
By the way, if you get the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, don't try to tighten the front shock upper nut to the torque in the Ford shop manual. If you do, you'll strip the nut and then the shaft threads will get buggered up when you take the nut off. Then, you'll have to go to a couple hardware stores to find an M10X1.25 die and new nut (thicker) and chase the threads and hope that everything will be OK. Before you know it, you'll have wasted half the day. Don't ask how I know this. Rather than a shoulder where the threads end, the shaft tapers from the threads to the slightly larger shaft diameter. Just tighten the nut until you feel some resistance and stop.
I forgot to order the rear axle damper so that'll be for next weekend, along with the shifter repair kit and a parking brake adjustment. Once that's done, I'm hoping all I'll have to do is regular fluid changes. The end is in sight...
Well I changed the oil, filters etc.on my new to me 1995 Explorer Expedition ( Yes that's what was on the rear hatch.) And replaced the rear hatch because the prior owner did not index the replacement hinges correctly and the hatch peeled up like a banana. Some large application of hammers was to blame I have no doubt. This of course was 7/12/2014 and today I drove it home to Mobile AL from Pensacola FLA. No other problems except for resetting the rear door ajar switches .
Bought our Colorado Neighbor's 2004 Mountaineer. It's a honey with 71k miles.
It's parked in front of our camper on our land in the San Juan Mtns of SW Co.
Since my wife has an '04 Explorer.. I got the shop manuals too..
I was sure it was the "air inlet door" since I could see up through the vent as suggested in that link. I didn't both to remove the motor! I had 5 screws holding the seam together, the support bracket had a 8mm screw from underneath. Once I found it the seam opened right up, and I reached in with a long thin screw driver to snag a corner and then pulled it out.
Bolted it back together and magic, the A/C is like new again..
This was a "temp" repair - that'll last forever.. To replace the inlet box requires way more effort than I can justify.. But, here's a link showing how to slightly remove the pass side dash to replace it.
fixed an alternator issue, and my bro got a sweet short vid of the "honey badger" haha
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Explorer was towed to dealer on Monday for diagnosis..
Got a call today, reverse servo is bad (tear/crack) they are having a new one over-nighted and should be ready to go home tomorrow ($630).
Feel lucky it wasn't a new trans..
We bought it new, had it recalled within a year because factory put wrong trans fluid in it. They found the trans was "ok" since we don't put many miles on it, wonder if that had any influence on this repair.. It has 54k miles on it today.. (our 2000 TJ also bought it new, has 24k miles. )
My ex (bought it 4 years ago w/98k) it now has 139k miles - guess who does all the driving in my family.
Since the place that changed my trans fluid and filter said the trans was full of fluid
didn't know how to check the fluid.
I had someone that knows how check it and it was 2 qts low.
They filled it and now it changes and starts moveing as it should.
Misky, I too bought a 2004 Explorer new and went through the fluid recall and subsequent worry that caused. Ours ended up with 2 new valve bodies over the life of the 75K mile warranty we had, but knock on wood now has over 220K miles on the same engine and trans. My in laws have it now and they routinely load it with 1500 lbs of animal feed and treat it like a farm truck. It just wont die. Sorry yours gave up the ghost so soon.
This evening I silenced some squeaks in the interior...
It started last weekend when I finally decided to take care of the rattle that was coming from the plastic trim on the glass hatch bouncing against the glass. I got some sticky-backed velcro and used the fuzzy half of the velcro. I stuck those strips on the glass, positioned where the trim would be touching the glass. That seemed to take care of that.
But then I noticed a squeak coming from the rear somewhere. From the driver's seat, it sounded like it was toward the back on the driver's side, I was thinking some of the plastic trim rubbing up against another piece of trim. After I got home from work I climbed in the back seat to try and investigate...as soon as my knee pressed in the bench of the rear seat, I heard the squeak. I started messing around with the seat and ultimately determined that the noise was coming from the hinges underneath the bench. So I doused those with some silicone spray and now there's no more squeak.