Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator1991-1994, 1995-2001, 2002-2005, 2006-2010 Ford Explorer
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Installed new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on all four corners and new front sway bar links/bushings. No more front end clunk and the ride is better.
By the way, if you get the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, don't try to tighten the front shock upper nut to the torque in the Ford shop manual. If you do, you'll strip the nut and then the shaft threads will get buggered up when you take the nut off. Then, you'll have to go to a couple hardware stores to find an M10X1.25 die and new nut (thicker) and chase the threads and hope that everything will be OK. Before you know it, you'll have wasted half the day. Don't ask how I know this. Rather than a shoulder where the threads end, the shaft tapers from the threads to the slightly larger shaft diameter. Just tighten the nut until you feel some resistance and stop.
I forgot to order the rear axle damper so that'll be for next weekend, along with the shifter repair kit and a parking brake adjustment. Once that's done, I'm hoping all I'll have to do is regular fluid changes. The end is in sight...
Well I changed the oil, filters etc.on my new to me 1995 Explorer Expedition ( Yes that's what was on the rear hatch.) And replaced the rear hatch because the prior owner did not index the replacement hinges correctly and the hatch peeled up like a banana. Some large application of hammers was to blame I have no doubt. This of course was 7/12/2014 and today I drove it home to Mobile AL from Pensacola FLA. No other problems except for resetting the rear door ajar switches .
Bought our Colorado Neighbor's 2004 Mountaineer. It's a honey with 71k miles.
It's parked in front of our camper on our land in the San Juan Mtns of SW Co.
Since my wife has an '04 Explorer.. I got the shop manuals too..
'05 EB Excursion 2wd 6.0 3.73/LS Mich LTX M/S2, Diesel Kleen (gray bottle), FICM w/atlas40 from Ed, RAS, Read Head Steering, scangaugeII w/Blendmount, '08+ Tow Mirrors, Magnefine PS filter, SPAtechnique Dual-Gauge (FP & Volt), Blue Spring, Air Lift 1000, Interior Dome Override, DieselSite Coolant Filter, BPD Oil & EGR coolers, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig, Diehard Platinum x2
I was sure it was the "air inlet door" since I could see up through the vent as suggested in that link. I didn't both to remove the motor! I had 5 screws holding the seam together, the support bracket had a 8mm screw from underneath. Once I found it the seam opened right up, and I reached in with a long thin screw driver to snag a corner and then pulled it out.
Bolted it back together and magic, the A/C is like new again..
This was a "temp" repair - that'll last forever.. To replace the inlet box requires way more effort than I can justify.. But, here's a link showing how to slightly remove the pass side dash to replace it.
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