'89 Ford F-150 Ignition Coil Ques.

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05-18-2014, 01:46 PM

JeffMoore

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'89 Ford F-150 Ignition Coil Ques.

My truck ('89, F-150, 5.0 engine) died on the expressway a week ago. Had enough speed to pull over to the side, but ended up getting towed home.

The truck cranks, but doesn't start. Here's what I've done:

1. Due to how suddenly it stopped, I first checked the fuel pressure. Reading was 38 psi, within range of 35-40. Checked that off my list.

2. Went through the tests for checking on the ignition control module at this site since there was NO spark at the ignition coil:
Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Distributor Mounted Module (ICM).

3. Per test # 3 on the above site, I replaced the ignition coil since the LED light blinked on and off as the engine was cranked indicating a bad coil.

4. Bought a BWD ignition coil at Advance Auto and installed it. Still NO spark. Figured I had a bad coil and since reviews indicated others had problems with the BWD coil, I returned it. Decided to buy a Motorcraft ignition coil. Installed that and still NO spark.

5. During my troubleshooting above, the battery pretty much stopped. It was past its time, about 6 years old, and my testing just accelerated it. Purchased a new 72 mo. Bosch battery and installed it.

6. I'm stumped as to why the ignition coil does not spark. I hooked up the coil directly to the battery using wire and alligator clips. Still NO spark with the spark tester.

7. What am I missing here? I'm tending toward this ignition coil being defective, but with chasing my tail, I know I need to step away and get some input.

Any suggestions highly appreciated.
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05-18-2014, 03:24 PM

rla2005

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If your LED tester is still blinking that means you may have another bad coil. You can confirm that theory by momentarily grounding the negative side of the coil, if there is still no spark you have a bad coil. If you do get spark then start your testing again for PIP and ICM operation.

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05-18-2014, 10:40 PM

JeffMoore

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rla2005

Well, the mystery deepens. I was able to put the new ignition coil on a friend's Ford truck. There was spark. It's a good unit.

Still scratching my head. Tomorrow I will start anew.

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05-21-2014, 01:51 PM

JeffMoore

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Still struggling with diagnosing why my truck cranks, but doesn't start. I've determined the ignition coil, ignition control module and the PIP are working.

Based on reading I've done on this board I'm traveling backwards to troubleshoot. I pulled the ECM box out. Mine has one capacitor on the circuit board. Attached are two pictures, one of the board (E9TF-12A650-AR1A) and another of the one capacitor.

The capacitor has a bulge which I assume is NOT the way it should look. It's difficult to see in the pic, but there are small bubbles on the top of the capacitor, same side as the bulge. Otherwise, I notice nothing else wrong on the board.

If indeed the capacitor needs to be replaced, is there anything else on the board that should also be replaced?

Is there any way to test the overall board?

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05-21-2014, 02:38 PM

rla2005

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Leave the computer unplugged, see if you have spark when you crank the engine. That will confirm the computer (PCM) is bad.

That capacitor is the classic failure mode on these aging PCMs. Nothing else to try to replace other than the capacitor. No you cannot test a PCM without specialized equipment.

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05-21-2014, 07:02 PM

timbersteel

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Yea, that capacitor is failing. That epoxy like coating showed where the fluid is creating gas and as you saw, hence the little bubbles.

Rla2005 is right about disconnecting the PCM to check for spark.

Let us know what you find.

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05-21-2014, 07:15 PM

JeffMoore

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rla2005

Thanks rla2005 for what to do next. I'm at work (second shift), but that will be the first thing I do at midnight!

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05-21-2014, 07:17 PM

JeffMoore

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Quote:

Originally Posted by timbersteel

Well, I would have never thought to look at the computer if not for what was written on this board.

I'll post what happens for my spark check.

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05-21-2014, 10:57 PM

JeffMoore

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Just got home from work and first thing tried for spark. No go. Haven't known frustration like this in a long time. I bought this truck new, have done most all the work on it and this is the longest it's been off the highway.

Any idea on what to do next?

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05-21-2014, 11:08 PM

JWC 3

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Curious , subscribed ! Powers and GROUNDS ... Got them at the proper place and time ?

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05-22-2014, 08:48 AM

rla2005

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Your LED tester may be giving false positive readings. If it is blinking when placed on the negative side of the coil (and cranking the engine), but you are still not getting any spark that tells me the return path is weak. Could be a bad PIP or ICM.

As mentioned previously bad grounds can drive one to drinking too.

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05-22-2014, 09:52 AM

subford

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Check the small black wire with a green stripe at the NEG post of the battery. The engine will not run without this ground.
Also make sure the large battery NEG cable goes to the block and not just to the frame.

How are you checking for spark?

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05-22-2014, 11:04 PM

JeffMoore

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Here's my update:

1. Checked ground wires at battery and 2 small wires were indeed loose. Tightened and checked. Nothing different.

2. Checked capacitor with a guy at work and it registered 3.38, exactly what it's supposed to be. I don't think it's the root of the problem. Will probably change once I can find another capacitor. Putting that to the side for now.

3. Ignition control module appeared to be fine per my multi-meter testing, but I realized it was only testing resistance. I removed the distributor to have the ICM checked at Advance Auto. It's a goner. Bought another and since the PIP was only another $20, went ahead and got it, too.

4. Oops, big mistake. I broke the teeth on the distributor drive gear trying to remove it from the shaft. Looks like I will be returning the unused ICM and PIP and buying a complete distributor assembly. It's even cheaper than buying the parts individually, something I didn't realize earlier. It has to be ordered, so I will be in a waiting mode.

5. If there's something I've forgotten, let me know.

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05-23-2014, 07:57 AM

subford

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The capacitor is just for the radio.
You can leave it off for now.

If you ordered a distributor that was not new then keep the PIP sensor as you may need to put it in the replacement distributor as most are bad in the distributor when you buy them.

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05-23-2014, 08:44 AM

JeffMoore

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Quote:

Originally Posted by subford

So, the blue capacitor operates the radio and nothing more? I guess if it begins to leak further, there could be other problems with the circuit board.

Forgot to mention the distributor I will order today is new, so the PIP, the module and the rest of it should be in top shape.

I'll report back once I get everything back on the truck.

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