Thanks for the kind words AK,

it's been a long road, and I know I still have a lot to do, and I would not be where I am now without you guys on this forum sharing all the good stuff.
I have been inspired by some of you, I was not planning on doing a full Restoration, but then if I have to do something I like to do it right, and as I read somewhere you don't do a frame off restoration to butcher it..

 

Here is some more, I was able to tilt the cab and clean all that tar, I used some paint stripper remover, with several application it worked, hard to reach in those little corner, but seems ok to me.
Then I applied 2 coat epoxy and 2 coat urethane.
Looks good, waiting for the new Prothane mounting to arrive from summit and I will reinstall the cab on the chassis.
In the beginning on this thread I cleaned the radiator core support, and used some spray can, and some rust appeared behind! So I decided to strip it with a wire wheel and give the same paint treatment I did for the chassis and cab.
I also painted my old radiator with some Rustoleum engine enamel, I know some people are against that, but this will be a temporary solution until I replace it, but at least I might be able to fire the engine a little bit sooner using the old one and the original fan.

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0008_zpshahz1ul3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0008_zpshahz1ul3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0008_zpshahz1ul3.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0009_zpsf52qskaq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0009_zpsf52qskaq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0009_zpsf52qskaq.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0011_zpsccrav9xu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0011_zpsccrav9xu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0011_zpsccrav9xu.jpg"/></a>

 

HI all,
Happy 4th of July!!

So I was planning of starting my engine after a 3 years rebuilt, but I run thru some electrical problem, and I think I will definitely need your help on that.

Everything is like new on this truck, brand new optima battery, new starter, new starter solenoid. I replace the distributor with a MSD one.

I did ground everything, engine to firewall, engine to frame, frame to radiator support and starter to frame.

When I turn the key I can hear the solenoid clicking but nothing else. I can see the light in the cab dimming, same with the light on the dash board, they dim and then nothing, like a dead battery. As I said battery is an optima brand new from Summit, so to make sure it was not the battery I use the one from my 4Runner and it did the same thing with a lot of spark coming from the positif terminal on the battery.
I also did the 3g conversion and get rid of the regulator, and I will have more question for that since I have a connector which I don't know where to plug it

here is some picture to illustrate what I just said

Starter:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0410_zpsm2ko3nz5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0410_zpsm2ko3nz5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0410_zpsm2ko3nz5.jpg"/></a>

Engine ground:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0411_zpsdoqr2c98.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0411_zpsdoqr2c98.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0411_zpsdoqr2c98.jpg"/></a>

Engine to frame:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0412_zpsqhtptrmk.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0412_zpsqhtptrmk.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0412_zpsqhtptrmk.jpg"/></a>

Alternator 3G: (I did add a 175AMP FUSE)
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0413_zpsp6ccqxkx.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0413_zpsp6ccqxkx.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0413_zpsp6ccqxkx.jpg"/></a>

Solenoid: (I did ground the support of the solenoid)
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0415_zpsvpb9p9fv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0415_zpsvpb9p9fv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0415_zpsvpb9p9fv.jpg"/></a>

My little mess:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0416_zps9jfwehyf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0416_zps9jfwehyf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0416_zps9jfwehyf.jpg"/></a>

I will appreciate any input, I first tried with my original starter that I rebuilt, but it didn't work and thought it was bad, so I went to buy a brand new one this morning, and it does the same thing. It looks like it draw a lot of power when trying to crank, but does not move at all! I can't seem to find the problem, although it seem like a bad ground but, all my grounding have been check several time.

Any help will be much appreciated, thanks

 

From the pictures, it looks like all your grounds are on painted surfaces. Try scraping the paint off the where the grounding wires are and re-attach, try again.

I know you hate to mess up a nice, painted frame and all, I would too. Give it a try and see what happens.

 

Thank you Filthy Beast,
You are right on that, it hurt to scratch that nice paint!!!
But I just follow your advice, unbolt all ground and use some sand paper to bring direct to metal contact, put everything back and
it still does the same thing, turn the key, can hear the blower (vent) working, dash light and park light and when trying to crank one click and no more light!!!

 

So now does the distributor wiring or even the ignition module have an importance for the engine to crank, I mean do they have to be wired for the engine to crank??

 

No, the ICM just switches the coil for a spark, has no bearing on cranking - just starting and running, among other things.

Give the starter solenoid a few whacks with the handle end of a screwdriver. It could be the solenoid is froze. It also needs a good, clean ground.....Ouch again if you have to scrape the paint!

 

I can hear the solenoid click when I turn the key, and when I tried the solenoid by itself and use a screw driver between "Battery" and "Ignition" i can hear it triggering, and same thing with the old solenoid so I will think they are both good, the truck was starting before the rebuild, This is my second day going thru the electric system. I mean it seem like the starter should turn if I apply a positive from the battery right? and it does not!
I have no clue, and I am out of idea!!!

 

I know it's a fresh rebuild but does the engine turn freely?
Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and try to turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar.
That header tube isn't touching the stud on the starter is it?

 

HI Mike,
Thank you for your input.
I just try to turn the engine at the crank pulley and it seem to turn, I mean I have the original fan in the way so I can only move it a little in both way, but it seem it should turn freely.
No the header is pretty tight but there is enough clearance and it is not touching the starter.

 

Good eyes on that starter stud, Mike.

Do you still have 12+ solid volts at the battery?

Does the + connection still spark when removed/attached? If so, that means a + drain to ground somewhere. I can't help you with the 3g alternator setup - maybe that might be causing a drain, if you still have it.

 

I thought about some bad wiring when doing the 3g connection, but looking at it this pretty simple. But I also tried to remove the lead from the alternator, so it was not even plug to the solenoid, and it still do the same thing! I will have to make a video.
Thank you for your help guys much appreciated, I will continue to dig into that problem, can't wait to fire the beast!! :-)

 

You're welcome. There are other tests available, but first call is to find what's causing the sparks on the + connection. Maybe you could pull a fuse, one by one to check if the sparks are gone...

I'm sure Mike (and others) can point you in the right direction....

 

When I installed my rebuild motor it turned out the NEW starter relay was junk even though it clicked. Because its new doesn't always mean it's good. 😫

 

If the motor turns freely and the stud on the starter is clear of the header tube, I would then suspect either the new solenoid is bad or the starter is bad.
Use a voltmeter, hook it to the starter side of the solenoid and energize the solenoid. See if you get 12 volts on the output terminal. If you do then the solenoid should be good.
I would remove the starter and use jumper cables to see if the starter energizes with no load.