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  #106  
Old 08-03-2014, 10:55 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Thanks Mike,
I guess I was worry about that little difference between original length and reconditioned length. Well so if everything turn well, I will have those rods and I will bring the block next week to the machine shop...

And I will have to bring the flywheel and Harmonic balancer. I think my balancer is original, how do I know if it still good enough?
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  #107  
Old 08-03-2014, 11:10 AM
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Here is the flywheel and harmonic balancer



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  #108  
Old 08-03-2014, 04:43 PM
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Your balancer looks okay. Core shifts when it was cast account for the off center look. It was balanced when it was machined, so how it "looks" doesn't matter.
The only two things that can go bad on these balancers (unless you strip a threaded hole) is the rubber damper ring and the snout where the front seal rides.
The damper ring is that little rubber ring that bonds the inertia ring to the hub. As these get old they can crack, turn hard and de-bond. This will allow the ring to shift or come loose.
The snout can get a groove worn in it where the front crankshaft seal rides. They make a repair kit for this that consists of a thin walled stainless steel sleeve that slides over the snout and gets cemented in place.
New balancers are still available. I got mine from Rock Auto.
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  #109  
Old 08-03-2014, 06:52 PM
Chris Popanz Chris Popanz is offline
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ive built quite a few FE's and let me tell you they aren't known for getting good MPG. if you can get 12, that's great! ditto what bullitt said- spend the $ and get the good edelbrock heads, you'll be happy you did. if your not wanting to stick with a 390, ive put in a 5.0 H.O. long block with the roller cam, a good intake/carb and they run quite well. but if youre after power, 460 is the way to go.
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  #110  
Old 08-03-2014, 09:58 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Mike I have some of the rubber coming out of the balancer on one side. So replacement will be done. Thanks for the advice.

Chris, I understand what you are saying, we are all in the search of something really cool to drive, have fun without spending all our money in gas... I agree with that but I had a Bronco 1995 Eddie Bauer 5.8L, it was a FI, but it still had a bad mileage compare to actual car. I got rid of it! And since I wish I kept it! Now this truck is not going to be a daily driver, just a sunday drive, when the weather is nice and have some good time! But being able to hear and smell that old V8 purr is worth it! It is definitely worse the experience specially for someone who didn't grow with those big V8 engine...
Thanks for the input.
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  #111  
Old 08-16-2014, 02:02 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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A little update,
I drop the block and all my part to a machine shop. They are specialize in competition engine, and they worked on few FE engine which make me more confident. The owner Rich seems a really nice guy, he will contact me with a quote for every part and for the job who have to be done on the block.
He will blue print everything, and he told I will just have to torque everything to the spec.

Now I have some time to work on the transmission. this is a 3 speed manual.
the tag say:
RAT CH2
KB 017142

So it looks like it should be the original transmission or should I say the appropriate transmission.

Now I am looking to find a gasket kit and oil seal, the gears seem to be all in good shape, and I didn't have any gear slippage when I was driving the truck.

I have a hard time to find the proper oil seal.
It looks like the part number is 7052 looking at the explode view:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/images/3spd_303.jpg

Can someone confirm that this part will work:

Also I was wondering how do you recognize an overdrive transmission?

Thanks for your help.

Laurent
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  #112  
Old 08-16-2014, 06:02 PM
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According to the dimensions listed in their e-bay add it will fit.
Here's what the parts catalog says:
Seal, extension housing
1˝" ID X 2 3/8" OD X ˝" TH.
C4TZ-7052-A

As for how to ID an overdrive transmission.
If you're talking about the old school 3 speed overdrive used in cars since the 1930's there will be a solenoid on the side of the trans, between the rear of the case and the extension housing. The solenoid kinda looks like a blower motor.
If you're talking about the 4 speed OD tranny that was used in these trucks. It pretty much looks like your 3 speed but with an additional shift lever on the side (total of 3 shift levers).
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  #113  
Old 08-22-2014, 04:49 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Thanks again Mike, the transmission doesn't have overdrive, and I receive the oil seal and it fit perfectly, one happy man!
Alright after watching the different forums here, specially the "what have you done today to your truck?" I had to do something, I decided to take the lower trim of, I knew something was wrong since it was attached by 2 screws on each side. I was thinking it must be totally rotten behind thie trim, finally took it of and realize it was not that bad at all. It was a nice little project for the day.
I also put the hood back so the the rain doesn't go everywhere. A good day of work always end by an ice cold Belgium beer: Leffe....







And how she sit now. I still have a lot of adjustment to do to align the fender hood and cab, it is kind of a PITA! if anybody have some trick to make it easier feel free...

Thanks for watching
Cheers,

Laurent
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  #114  
Old 09-04-2014, 09:00 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Well I got some news from the machine shop!

Of course it is worth than I thought... Why did I think it will be cheap and easy!!!!

Here is the email from the machine shop:

" Here's what we found:

Block: 4.060 bore now, should clean up at 4.080, which will take .030 over 390 pistons. The decks fit a .003" feeler gauge under a straight edge, so we'll resurface them. The main bores are out of whack...#1 is below the low limit, #2 is above the high limit, etc. We will line hone it and straighten them out. The block is being cleaned right now.

Crank: M.020/R.020, good clean, round cut on the low limit, and is useable with a light polish job.

Rods: New pin bushings are on the tight side of the spec, may need fitting to whatever pins we use. Big ends also on the tight side but can be lightly honed if needed for rod bearing oil clearance.

Heads: All work described in the ad has been done, although not to our standards. We vacuum checked the valve job. The exhausts were good but not the intakes. The seats are wide on one side and narrow on the other, so we'd like to re-do the intake valve job. If you want to stop by, I'd be happy to point out the uneven valve seats to you.

They used the good Viton valve seals on the exhaust but used the old style Teflon seals on the intake, so we'll replace the intake seals with Vitons. The head surfaces are extremely rough, so we'd like to re-do those as well.

The valve springs are good doubles and should work fine with the hydraulic roller. Which, by the way, is worth every penny. There is always a chance of flat lifter cams going bad, no matter how careful the preparation/assembly/break-in. It could cost a lot more to have to rebuild the engine again after a cam failure, than the difference in price now.

The price difference between a flat cam & lifters and the roller cam & lifters is shown below...

Hydraulic roller cam $347.37 + lifters $563.15 = $910.52 (I can do a little better on this price if you decide to go with it)
Flat tappet cam $87.06 + lifters $186.15 = $273.21

"

Here is the list of what the block need and the price:

- Remove cam bearing, plug core and degrease: $100
- Parrallel / square deck: $150
- Align & hone mains: $175
- Bore & hone cylinder: $250
- Pin fit piston & rods: $80
- Hone con rod big end for rod bearing oil clearance: $80
- Polish crankshaft: $50
- Resurfaced heads: $100/pair
- Multi angle valve job (intake only) adjust valve spring height and assemble: $200
- Blue print main & rod bearings clearances: $150
-Final clean & prep block for assembly, install cam bearing: $145
- Balance rotating assembly: $250

So a total of $1730 for all of that! I didn't expect this high bill.....

On top of that he told me that the flywheel will have to be resurfaced.

Frankly I didn't expect having to do anything to the heads, rod and crank, since I bought them rebuild or refurbished. The crank coming from Survival need a polish??????

They start the work on the block yesterday, cleaning, degreasing.

Do you guys think I could avoid some of the work? I mean can I do the pin fit or is it something he will have to do to balance the rotating assembly?

So far I have already $1000 in part like, reconditioned crankshaft, reconditioned rods and the rebuild heads.
I know I will have an other $400 in pistons, rings and bearings.

Well I better have to stop counting
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  #115  
Old 09-04-2014, 10:02 AM
ford_pickup ford_pickup is offline
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that's almost exactly what it cost to rebuild my 390, and the machine shop said they quoted me way too low it should have cost more
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  #116  
Old 09-04-2014, 10:18 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Ford Pickup when you say rebuild, you talk about the machine work done on your part right?

I just looked on Ebay, and you can see some 390 crate engine with 400hp for $4000.
So far I am going to be close to $3180 and I will still have to get a bunch of part camshaft, lifters, oil pump and screen, etc....
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  #117  
Old 09-04-2014, 10:20 AM
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redroad redroad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckoloum View Post
Well I got some news from the machine shop!

Of course it is worth than I thought... Why did I think it will be cheap and easy!!!!

Here is the email from the machine shop:

" Here's what we found:

Block: 4.060 bore now, should clean up at 4.080, which will take .030 over 390 pistons. The decks fit a .003" feeler gauge under a straight edge, so we'll resurface them. The main bores are out of whack...#1 is below the low limit, #2 is above the high limit, etc. We will line hone it and straighten them out. The block is being cleaned right now.

Crank: M.020/R.020, good clean, round cut on the low limit, and is useable with a light polish job.

Rods: New pin bushings are on the tight side of the spec, may need fitting to whatever pins we use. Big ends also on the tight side but can be lightly honed if needed for rod bearing oil clearance.

Heads: All work described in the ad has been done, although not to our standards. We vacuum checked the valve job. The exhausts were good but not the intakes. The seats are wide on one side and narrow on the other, so we'd like to re-do the intake valve job. If you want to stop by, I'd be happy to point out the uneven valve seats to you.

They used the good Viton valve seals on the exhaust but used the old style Teflon seals on the intake, so we'll replace the intake seals with Vitons. The head surfaces are extremely rough, so we'd like to re-do those as well.

The valve springs are good doubles and should work fine with the hydraulic roller. Which, by the way, is worth every penny. There is always a chance of flat lifter cams going bad, no matter how careful the preparation/assembly/break-in. It could cost a lot more to have to rebuild the engine again after a cam failure, than the difference in price now.

The price difference between a flat cam & lifters and the roller cam & lifters is shown below...

Hydraulic roller cam $347.37 + lifters $563.15 = $910.52 (I can do a little better on this price if you decide to go with it)
Flat tappet cam $87.06 + lifters $186.15 = $273.21

"

Here is the list of what the block need and the price:

- Remove cam bearing, plug core and degrease: $100
- Parrallel / square deck: $150
- Align & hone mains: $175
- Bore & hone cylinder: $250
- Pin fit piston & rods: $80
- Hone con rod big end for rod bearing oil clearance: $80
- Polish crankshaft: $50
- Resurfaced heads: $100/pair
- Multi angle valve job (intake only) adjust valve spring height and assemble: $200
- Blue print main & rod bearings clearances: $150
-Final clean & prep block for assembly, install cam bearing: $145
- Balance rotating assembly: $250

So a total of $1730 for all of that! I didn't expect this high bill.....

On top of that he told me that the flywheel will have to be resurfaced.

Frankly I didn't expect having to do anything to the heads, rod and crank, since I bought them rebuild or refurbished. The crank coming from Survival need a polish??????

They start the work on the block yesterday, cleaning, degreasing.

Do you guys think I could avoid some of the work? I mean can I do the pin fit or is it something he will have to do to balance the rotating assembly?

So far I have already $1000 in part like, reconditioned crankshaft, reconditioned rods and the rebuild heads.
I know I will have an other $400 in pistons, rings and bearings.

Well I better have to stop counting
Sometimes people think they have a right to reach in your pockets ..
I would be asking for justification on the following
- Align & hone mains: $175
- Polish crankshaft: $50
- Resurfaced heads: $100/pair
- Multi angle valve job (intake only) adjust valve spring height and assemble: $200
- Blue print main & rod bearings clearances: $150

It sounds like someone who is good at seeing if there's any more money on the table to be had .. This kind of shxt really gets me going
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  #118  
Old 09-04-2014, 11:18 AM
ford_pickup ford_pickup is offline
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oh, wow, no I had a 390 complete, the block turned out to be bad and they sold me a good used one for 150, but all the machine work, camshaft, gaskets, freeze plugs, and cam bearings and assembly came to 1800
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  #119  
Old 09-04-2014, 11:21 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Ford pickup,
Holy cow!!!
Well should I think I am being rip by those guys????

Redroad, I received the email yesterday evening, and I can tell I had some hard time being able to sleep!
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  #120  
Old 09-20-2014, 09:50 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Hi all,
I thought it was time for a little update.
I am still cleaning part and I ca see this truck had some hard use. After seeing the steering column in bad shape, now this is the clutch release.



Also the engine is still in the machine shop. I went to see the progress yesterday, and bad news, the heads that I bought completely reconditioned need to be redonne, the valve job is not great, the valve are moving sideway in their guide, and the springs (inner and outer) have different height!...
Well, since I bought them a few month ago on Ebay, I am F_____...
In the end those heads will have cost me around $1200, the price of nice Edelbrock heads...
You can not imagine how happy I am right now and how stupid I feel! Never again I will buy reconditioned stuff thru the internet.
Live and learn...

Now maybe the job on those heads was fine to the standard of the guy who did the job, and the guys were my engine is have a higher standard? Who knows...

The good news is I got a brand new Performer RPM intake

I changed my mind on the kind of cam I will use, I was going for roller, but now I am going back to hydraulic. Cheaper...

I am going to use this cam from Lunati Voodoo 10330703:
RPM range: 1600-5800
Duration @ .50: In=227 Ex=233
Valve lift @ 1.73: In=.552 Ex=.564
LSA: 110

I choose this cam to match the rpm range of the intake which is 1500-6500 (that's what I read).

What do you guys think I should get, 600cfm or 750cfm carb?
RedRoad I remember you were talking about the 4160 if I remember correctly, would it work with this setup?
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Old 09-20-2014, 09:50 AM
 
 
 
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