Yeah that's way high .. Take the time and go meet the people and look over their shop .. Talk to customers .. It's a lot of money your laying out so be confident with your choice before you pull the trigger .. yes have the motor balanced with the complete rotating assembly in place .. A shop that also provides this service might be a better choice .. Ask about whether they clean the motor in-house and if you can be there when they measure the state of your block so you can make decisions on the machine work .. If they balk at the idea go elsewhere

 

When I rebuilt mine a couple of years ago, I had the machine shop bore the cylinders +.030" replace the cam bearings, clean the block and heads, surface the heads on both the deck and exhaust flanges, replace the exhaust valve seats with hard seats and install valve guides. I also had them check the block deck and main bearing bores for alignment. The deck and mains were okay and didn't need any machine work. I also had them balance the entire reciprocating assy. (Crank, rods, pistons, flex plate, harmonic balancer). I supplied all the parts except valve seats and guides. The crank and rods were already reconditioned. In my case the shop had to add weight to the crank to get everything balanced. I also wanted the heads to be good for unleaded and supplied new intake and stainless steel exhaust valves.
The total for machine work was, if I remember right, $985.00.

 

Mike I think the price seems reasonable for the work done, It looks like balancing the rotating assembly is not the cheapest thing!

Well, here is an other machine shop, is it me or it is getting worse!!:

"
[U]This price sheet applies to most American V8 non-modular engines:

Engines must be drained of ALL fluids. There will be a charge to dispose of any oil/coolant if left in the engine.

Note: All parts must be cleaned prior to machining. (We can clean them or you can clean them, your choice)
Marine engines: There may be additional costs in cleaning marine engine parts due to the inherent nature of marine engines and oxidation.

Engine disassembly and inspection $200 (This assumes a long block only, with NO exhaust manifolds, mounts, or accessories, and also that all fasteners can be removed without trouble. Accessories can be removed for an additional charge)


HEAD WORK:

Disassemble & clean cylinder head castings $125

Repair valve guides with bronze liners $160

Resurface heads $100/pair

Multi angle valve job, adjust valve spring heights and assemble heads $300

PISTON, ROD, & CRANK WORK:

Press pistons off rods $24

Recondition connecting rods $120

Pin fit pistons and rods $80

Flycut valve pockets $15/per pocket

Install pistons on rods $48

Balance rotating assembly $250 (Additional charge for Mallory metal, if needed)

Polish crankshaft $50, or regrind crankshaft $125

BLOCK WORK:

Remove cam bearings and core plugs, degrease block $100

Parallel/Square decks $150 (resurface block)

Align hone mains $175

Bore & hone cylinders with torque plate $250

Deglaze cylinders $80

Install cylinder sleeve $100

Clearance block for stroker $Per hour

Blueprint main and rod bearing clearances $150 (Comes with spec sheet. This is included in the short block and full engine assembly labor)

Final clean & prep block for assembly, install cam bearings and core plugs $145

Blueprint and assemble short block $500 (includes blueprint main and rod bearing clearances, gap rings, install rotating assembly and degree camshaft)

- OR -

Blueprint and assemble long block $950 (includes short block assembly, installing cylinder heads, valve train, timing cover, oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold, distributor, and priming of oil system) "

I will keep looking.

 

Here is a little update:

I receive my new heads




I realized that the 2 rocker shaft was bent. One more than the other one! And since I also had 4 springs who were broken. I found a good deal on Ebay for 4 complete set of rocker arm with tray and push rod, rocker shape are from good to excellent. Hopefully I will be able to make 2 good one.

I ordered the crankshaft from Survival last Friday, and still no news from them, I will give them a call today...

 

Good news .. Nice heads .. Any news on on condition of your block ? Sending you a PM on some other parts you may or may not need .. Thanks for the update

 

HI all,

I thought I will give some news on what is going on with my project.

I still have the block in my garage, I did the oil mod for the crank bearing, I am waiting for the gaskets to do the oil pump and oil filter adapter.

I cleaned some part using electrolysis! It was my first time doing this and it is easy and it worked like a charm! I had to put a battery otherwise the charger will not start. This is to me the best way to remove rust. Amazing how the part came out after let them soaked for 24h. a little cleaning after with a water hose, dry with compressed air and then metal brush, primer, paint and done.
Here is some pictures:









I also started to rebuild my starter, a good clean inside the rotor, all that copper dust from the brush was mixed with old oil, not a good thing. Waiting for the brush kit to arrive from the auto store. If I can minimize the cost, I am happy with that, also if it is not broken use it, that is true for some part that I could change easily but I will not take that risk with the oil pump.

 

Nice work How did you do on rocker arm shafts ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealed-Power-Rocker-Arm-Shaft-Ford-332-352-360-361-390-410-427-428-Each-RS621-/390863470312?hash=item5b01473ee8&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks John,

I found a set on Ebay it was like 4 complete rocker arms with the oil tray and a lot of push rod.
I was able to make 2 good one.

Here are the left over part:



If someone is interested PM me.

 

Excellent progress.

 

nice work so far, interested to see your progress

 

This is the hardest part of the build .. Finding or rebuilding quality parts , finding a worthy machine shop , and last but not least laying down the cash my least favorite BTW ..

 

Thanks guys,

Yes it is hard to find a cheap machine shop!.. And I agree with you John on laying down the cash.

I had to get a good air compressor to be able to use my cutting wheel. I have to replace the floor pan on the driver side. I got the air compressor, now I am planning to get a water and oil filter for the air delivery. And I decided I will try to do the paint job by myself, and I would love to use the House Of Kolor product, maybe some dark candy, I don't know yet but I like the idea on this corvette:
1963 Corvette Sting Ray - Split Window Coupe - Restoration
Nice build by the way.

And here are the last progress, Cleaning the headlight housing, Electrolysis-cleaning-primer.
Before


After


Also did the radiator core support:


And here with a coat of paint.


I am looking to rebuild the alternator-generator. But there is no information on it at all, I don't know what AMp it deliver? I will say it is maybe a 60 Amp, and it should be fine as long as I don't have AC or a big stereo system I guess. So do you think I should try to rebuild it or get a new one, they seems to be cheap, and I could maybe upgrade to a bigger one?

 

Real nice progress

I would do a 3g alternator conversion (130 amp) before I put any time or money into the stock alternator .. It's really pretty inexpensive .. With the 60 amp alternator at idle even the headlights dim .. Besides you'll probably want to put an electric cooling fan upgrade in it to protect that newly built motor especially at idle in Florida summer temps. ..

 

Hi all,
So I have been busy trying to set up my new air compressor. I started with PVC pipe and realize the hard way that it was a mistake, A fitting explode when I open the valve with 155 psi in the tank!...
Thankfully the debris didn't touch me. I learn also that black iron pipe should be use for air tool delivery, insurance could refuse to insure you if you use PVC or even copper...

Here is my new compressor:


Now I can use my cut off wheel and take care of that rusty floor pan:


Then I start tack welding the pan:



Going back and forth between the tack, and done:





Next will be grinding, prime and apply something similar than the sound deadener. I find something in Home Depot much cheaper, this is a duct insulation:
Frost King E/O 12 in. x 15 ft. Foil and Fiberglass Duct Insulation-SP55/6 at The Home Depot


Here I use it on the inside of the roof, it definitely absorb vibration:


That's it for now.

Cheers

 

By the way John, I will go for a 130 Amp alternator, I don't want to see anything dim at idle.
Also I have a question, do anybody know what is that switch on the left of the driver floor close to the wall?
On my picture it is unscrew and it hang just over the parking brake pedal.
There is that big switch who is attach by 2 screw,
Anybody???