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  #61  
Old 05-29-2014, 03:10 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Yes I did take the canister out for cleaning! I will keep it.
Sure, give me some info on those carb, they seem cheap, I like that!
Thanks for the link for those headers, I am going to look to make sure they can fit, It will be hard to beat $100, I need to look for the shipping cost now... ;-)
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  #62  
Old 05-29-2014, 03:16 PM
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Yes I did take the canister out for cleaning! I will keep it.
Sure, give me some info on those carb, they seem cheap, I like that!
Thanks for the link for those headers, I am going to look to make sure they can fit, It will be hard to beat $100, I need to look for the shipping cost now... ;-)
No problem on the link hope it works out .. That's $75 for good builder and $100 in parts to make it better than any 4160 .. You can't beat that for a Holley vacuum secondary carb ..
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  #63  
Old 05-29-2014, 05:22 PM
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Here is a 4180c in arlington for $75 where are you in florida ?
holly carb. if you inquire there is a number we need off it to see if it was made after 85


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  #64  
Old 05-29-2014, 07:30 PM
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I am in the West Palm area, kind of far from Jacksonville, I will get in touch with the seller, if he accept to ship it.
I am still looking to find a good machine shop for my engine.
Also I have to get the 390 crankshaft an the connecting rod. Do you think this is something I could buy before bringing the block to the shop? I know for the piston I will have to wait and see what bore I will have. I measured the piston chamber and I had like 4.049 with my digital caliper, that let me think the engine was never re bored. Maybe I could be good with just a honing!
I should receive my rebuilt heads next week.
I have to think about the transmission! I am planing to keep the 3 speed because of my budget, I didn't have problem shifting but since it is out of the car, is there anything I should do?
Thanks again for all the help.
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  #65  
Old 05-29-2014, 08:21 PM
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I would wait on the crank until you know the block is worth using because if you should have to get another one you may find a complete rebuildable 390 that will have a crank .. The rods that your looking at are a good value because even if you had a set of rods to be reconditioned it would probably cost you more to go that way .. Don't worry about the trans right now you can do a clutch kit fro m Luk probably for $80 from rock auto and that includes everything you'll need to redo it .. You can save some money by finding a good duraspark II distributor core for a 390 .. I might have one, I'll check tomorrow .. "Maybe I could be good with just a honing" that's good .. You just need to find out how far out of round the cylinders are to determine if a hone will get you by .. My 68 galaxie 500 motor had 80,000 miles on it and a hone was all it needed .. Take your time enjoy the process .. Wish you well and I will help any way I can .. BTW I'm french Canadian and Native American (Oneida) .. My people are from Quebec and central New York state
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  #66  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:04 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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I will follow your advice and wait until the block is at the machine shop. I know it is going to take me some time anyway.
Tabernacle! I had never heard about Oneida, you learn something new everyday!

By the way I was trying to take my steering rod to give it a good clean and paint it, and it is really hard to take it a part. I took all the castle nut, try to hit it with a mallet, nothing move!... Any advice?
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  #67  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:13 AM
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The harmonic balancer puller should work on the steering wheel with the right bolts .. A puller is the only way to get it off ..
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  #68  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:28 AM
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I also heard people was restricting the oil passage to the heads by tapping the hole and putting a jet from a carb! I guess I will have to do those mods for the oil passages!
Here I am, late to the party again! Guess I should stay current on the threads that I follow .
The Ford FE pumps a lot of oil to the top end and this isn't necessary. It's better to restrict the flow to the rocker arms and keep the oil in the pan.
The mod you're talking about is really easy. There is NO drilling or tapping required.
The Holley carb jets just sit in the galley, the OD of the jet is the perfect size for the ID of the galley. The bolt for the rocker arm stand keeps the jet from coming out. When I did my mod I used Holley #70 jets.
The first picture is the jet in place, the second picture shows there's more than enough oil flow. I'm using a cordless drill to spin the pump. The third and fourth pictures are my formerly 360 now 390 engine, yeah, I like to show it off .
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  #69  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:37 AM
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real nice Mike .. I needed to see the A/C bracket .. Do you have a link for the A/C pump conversion bracketry (york to sanderson) ?
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  #70  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:46 AM
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real nice Mike .. I needed to see the A/C bracket .. Do you have a link for the A/C pump conversion bracketry (york to sanderson) ?
Thanks.
Here's a link to the bracket. I had all the factory brackets so this is the one I used. They also have one that allows you to pivot the compressor to tighten the belt.
Nostalgic Air has probably anything you'll need to do the conversion, including the compressor.
Nostalgic AC - York Compressor Adapter Plate / Universal Mount - Misc Compressor Mounts - Mount Kits & Pulleys
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  #71  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0 View Post
Thanks.
Here's a link to the bracket. I had all the factory brackets so this is the one I used. They also have one that allows you to pivot the compressor to tighten the belt.
Nostalgic Air has probably anything you'll need to do the conversion, including the compressor.
Nostalgic AC - York Compressor Adapter Plate / Universal Mount - Misc Compressor Mounts - Mount Kits & Pulleys
Thanks Mike I appreciate it .. I hate to admit it but the older I get the more A/C is a necessity .. I remember driving my 73 F250 across the country with no A/C in the hottest part of Summer with a C-6 and no floor covering .. Stopped at every swimming hole between Colo. and Pa. .. You only do something like that when your young
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  #72  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:59 AM
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Thanks Mike I appreciate it .. I hate to admit it but the older I get the more A/C is a necessity .. I remember driving my 73 F250 across the country with no A/C in the hottest part of Summer with a C-6 and no floor covering .. Stopped at every swimming hole between Colo. and Pa. .. You only do something like that when your young
I know what you mean. When I got the Pumpkin in 1985, it had add on A/C that didn't work. I never got it fixed, drove it all over the country including CA, AZ and west Texas. Didn't bother me at all. Now, nearly thirty years later, adding factory air during the resto was at the top of my things to do list.
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  #73  
Old 05-31-2014, 01:41 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Mike,
Your engine looks really good!
I knew a jet could do it but I never thought I will not have to drill or tap, that's even better, thanks.
Mine didn't came with AC!
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  #74  
Old 05-31-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0 View Post
Thanks.
Here's a link to the bracket. I had all the factory brackets so this is the one I used. They also have one that allows you to pivot the compressor to tighten the belt.
Nostalgic Air has probably anything you'll need to do the conversion, including the compressor.
Nostalgic AC - York Compressor Adapter Plate / Universal Mount - Misc Compressor Mounts - Mount Kits & Pulleys
Wow, I was trying to remember who offered those brackets, and you posted the link. I bookmarked it for future reference.....
Dad's truck has factory A/C that still works, but it could really use an updated/upgraded compressor.....

Thanks for posting that!
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1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #75  
Old 06-03-2014, 10:52 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Here is a little update,
I find a machine shop in the West Palm Beach area and
here is what they charge:

- Bore and hone block: $35 each hole
- Clean block: $85
- Remove and reinstall cam bearing: $55 labor only no cam bearing part
- Reinstall piston: $10 each
- Recondition crank: $185
- Recondition rods: $15-20 each
- Recondition head: cast iron head: $105 each. Labor only no valves, guides or seats included

The crank and rods I will buy will be already reconditioned from Survival Motorsports.
And I bought a pair of rebuilt head with CJ valve.

I read the FE engine are internally balanced except for the 410-428 if I remember correctly. Does that mean I should do the balancing with the rods and pistons? the rods and crank are original reconditioned from a 390, and I don't know yet which piston I will have!

I know I don't want the compression going above 9:1

Concerning the camshaft I was thinking about the Comp Cam 33-321-3:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...view/make/ford

I am going to do the oil modification this week, and I will probably
bring the block next week. But I am a bit anxious when I compare with the price from Redroad's link: Engine House: engine house, crankshafts, engine block, cylinder head, connecting rod, automotive machine shop,
It is a more than double to bore and hone a V8!!!
What do you guys think?

I am going to try to find an other shop.
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:52 AM
 
 
 
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