Alright, I got it her to finally crank!!!
Yes!!!
So it was bad connection on the battery side! I don't know if you can see it on the picture with the battery, I replaced both connector, cut the wire to have clean copper. Did check everything, oil pump, took the valve cover off and saw the oil coming, same at the distributor gear (that small .30 hole in the plug give a nice squirt on the gear).
I had the battery charge for few hours, thought it is brand new but you never know right.
So I did everything right and it works! I thought I could reuse those old battery terminal but I was wrong, don't cut into corner, when you are that far in a rebuild that doesn't make sense.

But now I need her to spark! Since I am by myself I tried to put a voltmeter at the coil input and get ashy 3.6V when cranking, at least I have something, but I will imagine I will need a nice 12V.

But since I replace the dizzy with a MSD one, there is some unconnected wires.

Here is the wiring for the Dizzy 8595 MSD:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/msd%208595_zpshq2ci5ko.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/msd%208595_zpshq2ci5ko.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo msd 8595_zpshq2ci5ko.jpg"/></a>

So after installing the dizzy I have this connector standing by itself!!!!
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0417_zps9cw15ctg.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0417_zps9cw15ctg.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0417_zps9cw15ctg.jpg"/></a>

So I should have 12V, arriving to the coil. So My guess is I should disconnect the starter and try to crank it to see if Ihave the right voltage and spark, is there any problem doing that?

 

Yes, you should have 12 VDC at the coil, in "RUN" and "START." Did you measure the voltage with the key in "RUN?"

If you're talking about bench testing the starter, there's no problem in that, as Mike alluded to in a previous post. Be careful here as the starter will jump when 12 volts is applied.

If you want to test the starter with it still bolted to the engine, you can jump it by bypassing the solenoid - disconnect the starter cable from the solenoid and jump it to the + battery. The starter is grounded via its bolts to the engine. If it starts/cranks over you know the starter is good and the problem lies with the solenoid and/or its wiring. But you knew all that, yes?

 

I am at TDC but I have to make sure I am at the end of the exhaust stroke, and then reinstall the distributor and align #1.

Then if I run a 12V from the battery straight to the + of the coil, I should have spark right?

Then if the timing is right, the starter crank, and I have spark, it should start right?


When I tried this morning to crank her, I heard some noise and it was some kind of squirt coming out of the carb!! but not a single detonation, so I believe my distributor is installed 180 degree off, for this test I also had a wire straight from the "I" from the solenoid starter to the "+" of the coil.

Filthy Beast I don't have to check the starter anymore, it was not cranking due to bad connector on the battery side, so I did went thru all your advice, strip the paint for a better ground, change the battery terminal, and it crank right away!

 

Nicely done!! She's getting closer to running!

 

Double post .

 

NO! That is incorrect!
The #1 cylinder needs to be on the compression stroke (both valves shut), not the overlap stroke (exhaust closing, intake opening).
To make sure the #1 cylinder is on compression. Pull #1 plug, put your finger over the hole and turn the engine over. You'll feel pressure start to build, that's the compression stroke. Turn the engine until the #1 piston is at TDC, then put the distributor in with the rotor pointed to #1.
If you put the distributor in on the overlap stroke, the distributor will be 180 degrees off.

 

Yes Mike you are right, my bad!

Well My engine guy came last night to have a look, good thing is I was right on the timing, and I had spark!
So the problem was the Street Avenger that I bought on Ebay and that I rebuild.... there is no gas squirting, so I probably did something wrong when rebuilding it. And Danny my engine guy, told me he have a brand new one at his shop a 770CFM. So I went to buy it this morning installed it on the truck, and after a few crank, the engine started!!

You can not believe how happy I am to see that engine running!!! No mufflers, so it is just headers and it is loud but it sounded running very well. I still have to adjust timing (isn't it something with the vacuum line when adjusting timing???) and adjust idle screw it run a little bit high in RPM. So should I AIM for concerning the timing 12 degree BTDC???


Also when I wanted to turn it off, I turn the key but nothing happen, it kept turning, I then unplug ground from battery, and I had to unplug alternator and it stop before I was completed to disconnect the alternator, very weird!!! But it did that only on the first time and turn off properly after that.

But right now I am very happy, all that labor, all that money involve in that rebuild, and learning and doing everything almost by myself for the first time, YES I am a Happy man, this is not beer time yet but I will definitely celebrate tonight!

 

So here is the video of the first start !

http://vid1072.photobucket.com/album...pseqftalbk.mp4

 

Sounds pretty damn good! Congratulations.
Learn by doing is the best way in my opinion .

 

Hot damn!!! Yes, she sounds real good....you'll be sh**ting in tall cotton now!

On another note - I hope you have a fan shroud - it will help with cooling that new engine down in sunny Florida.

 

Thank you guys, it is a freaking awesome day!!!

Yes I know I still have some work to do before it is drivable. I am working on the break right now, got the Wilwood proportioning valve and the SS break line from Inline, but I just realize that the thread fitting are bigger on the line than the proportioning valve, I am going to look for adaptor.

Yes she sound awesome, I don't know if the cam is for something but I believe it does make it sound good, hydraulic roller cam and lifter

And yes Filthy Beast I will do the electric fan mod and probably replace the radiator with an aluminum one, because it is hot here in West Palm Beach!!!

Looking to install hydroboost, I saw different thread with people using hydro from Chevy Astro and Ford Super Duty F450, but you need to fab a bracket or shorten the rod going to the brake pedal. I also find that guy who seem to sell some bolt on hydro for the dentside:
Ford F100 and F150 Hydro-Boost Kits and Conversions

 

Actually you would be better off recoring or replacing your radiator with a stock type unit. Aluminum does not cool as well as a brass/copper radiator. And the difference is quite a bit.

 

So now that the engine is running, I run into a problem. the steering pump and pit arm are the same, I ordered the tie rod kit and installed it without problem.
But now that everything rest on the wheesl I can see the pit arm is very close to tie rod link!!! I saw on some forum that I could change the pit arm, because right now it is very close and I think it might rub the tie rod if I turn the steering wheel left to right.

Here is some pictures:


<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0461_zpsbazd7lbs.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0461_zpsbazd7lbs.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0461_zpsbazd7lbs.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0460_zpsdsedc7lu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0460_zpsdsedc7lu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0460_zpsdsedc7lu.jpg"/></a>

I will take a picture of the pit arm itself, but anyone have an idea what could cause this problem other than the wrong pit arm?

Thanks

 

Is that a Ford pitman arm?
If it is, there should be an ID number cast into it. Post it and I'll see if I can ID the application.

 

Hi Mike,
Thanks, I will look at it when I get back from work.
I appreciate