Hey guys, I'm hoping someone who has rebuilt one of these 4180 carbs can help me.

Last fall I rebuilt the carb in my 86, got it running and it has sat over the winter. When I rebuilt it the primary needle and seat was stuck closed but the ones that came in the rebuild kit were physically too small to thread into the hole. I managed to get it unstuck, but now it's sticking again and I would like to replace the needle and seat assembly.

Has anyone else run into an issue with different thread size needle/seat assemblies? I didn't see anything about it online, i suppose it's possible that someone switched out a float bowl or something but idk.

The numbers on the front of the carb are:

E5TE-9510-ZB
LIST-50264-1
3365



Here you can see the difference in thread and size, I am aware they no longer make them the way they came from Ford, My understanding is they now adjust with the nut and lock with the screw, opposite of how the originals are.



To further clarify the size difference...



Any help would be appreciated!

 

My first reaction was you have the wrong part. As I understand it the 4180 ones are not interchangeable with a holly. I hope the threads are OK.Try JEGS Performance Auto Parts - Holley - Billet Specialties - Edelbrock - MSD - Moroso - Mr Gasket - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS or www.summit.com

 

E5TE-9510-ZB = Carburetor parts list 5H

2) E6PZ-9564-B .. Needle Assy-Fuel Inlet (Motorcraft CV-118-A) / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati Oh has 5 = 800-543-4959.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 8 = 888-727-0418.

 

Beetle, thanks but the kit I ordered was for my particular model. That being said I will NEVER AGAIN buy a GP Sorensen anything, it was a headache from the get-go.

Bill, Thank you but unfortunately I have bigger problems now as I will explain.

I just went out and pulled the primary float bowl off and... there is some nasty grey sludge in the bottom of the carb, I have no clue what it's from but I can only assume it's something resulting from me filling the bowl with carb cleaner when I was trying to get the truck to start last fall.

Apparently I'm in for a rebuild AGAIN. If I rebuild it this time I will use a genuine kit from Holley, should I just try to get a 4160 already rebuilt or keep putting money into this carb? I've heard good and bad things about this carb. I'm already looking at another $60 so if I can find another used or reman carb for $100-150 that will work better, I will. What are your ideas?

 

The 3-1346 rebuild kit is currently ~$52 delivered from Ebay or Amazon Prime.
I see the same price from Holley themselves, but no free shipping. http://www.holley.com/3-1346.asp

The Motorcraft float bowls are unique to Ford OEM, so I imagine the float valves are too.

My 0-80457s was around $300 iirc.

 

Well Jim, I'm pretty sure it was you that warned me not to use an off-brand rebuild kit in the first place so... (in my defense, I had already bought it)

I find used carbs under $100 on ebay all the time so I just wondered if there was a carb that someone would recommend over the stock carb, I'm sure it's a decent carb, I just know that some people dislike it because it's "emissioned"

 

I remember that.
How would you know beforehand???

These are the same people who complain that 460's are too thirsty.
(even though the 4180 had Holley and Ford engineering departments working for economy and emissions)

Have you considered using a thread repair insert in your float bowl?

A 600cfm 4160 is a good choice.
Larger carbs have dual fuel inlets on the other side.
And a fuel log is anywhere from $50-$500...

You need one with a Ford kickdown and a pretty high numbered powervalve.

Manufacture after 1991(?) will have powervalve protection built in.

Swap the choke coil over from your 4180 so it will work properly with stator power.

 

I like the simpler aftermarket carbs. But if you buy a used one you might be worse off. It may be one that someone took apart, lost half the parts, and stuck it back together to sell. But if you are good with these carbs you may get a couple and be able to get one of them going. You will most likely have to mill/file the main body as when they get old they like to warp.

That muck in the bottom of the carb can be a common thing. That's what the new fuel turns into that you buy at the gas station now. If you are going to have stuff sitting around, you need to hunt around for a station in your area that sells fuel with "no ethanol". The alcohol in the regular fuels attracts moisture and as it evaporates creates a sticky gum that clogs everything up.

 

That's the Holley rebuild kit I used and I got it from summit racing. Came with inlet valves, a power valve, gaskets and O rings. It does not come with floats or the intake to ERG plate gasket so if you want those you'll need to order them separately.

As for the inlet valves I can't tell much from the picture you posted except it looks like you're putting them in upside down?

Edit: I looked again and I think I understand. The new one on the right looks correct. The adjustment "nut" really isn't a nut at all. It just slides over the top part of the inlet value that sticks out of the top of fuel bowl and engages the flats on the inlet valve so you can turn it. The big flat screw that goes in the top is what locks the inlet valve in place once you've adjusted it where you want it.

Short of buying a whole new carb (I bought a duplicate 4180 at the junkyard for $50.00 just cause I had to have an extra) about all you can do is get a genuine Holley kit and see if the inlet valves fit.

 

Okay, I found my old inlet valve and measured it. It's a tiny bit over 7mm (like 7.2mm) across the flats and like 9.1 mm across the round threaded section.

Hope that helps.

 

None of them come with floats or EGR gasket.

I bought the brass side hung floats and still have a couple of the updated OEM (pink polymer) EGR gaskets.
Felpro has the 60003 with the funky 'ear' too.

 

E5TE-ZB, carb parts list 5H.

FOPZ-9A586-H .. Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-1443-D).

Carb to spacer gasket furnished in carb kit / E8TZ-9447-B .. 460 4V Spacer to Intake Manifold Gasket (Motorcraft CG-536-B) sold by itself.

2) D8PZ-9550-B .. Float Assy (Motorcraft CM-3007). Not included with carb kit.

 

Bill,
I have e8tz9447-A

Was this part superseded again?

 

B replaced A, because...

Late 1980's: FoMoCo changed the package quantity of a gazillion different parts.

When the IDIOTS did this, they changed the part numbers suffixes .. which rendered all the previous part numbers obsolete!

Associated problemo: Next to none of these replaced part numbers are listed in 1979 and older parts catalogs, final editions 10/88 truck, 11/88 car.

When a number was obsoleted, it was listed in the price book for one year. Afterwards, the only way to find the original part numbers was by lookin' in the O-S-I catalog.

But some newbie partsguys were unaware of this, so when customers asked for certain parts, if they were not listed in the price book, newbies said, sorry, it's obsolete (in other words you're SOL!).

FAQ: 1965/77 F100/350 NSS Selector Lever: D0TZ-7B097-B (replaced D0TZ-7B097-A & C5TZ-7B097-A) .. This little charmer attaches to shift tube thru hole in steering column shroud.

It has a knife blade end that fits into the NSS, end is notorious for snapping off! 1989: Due to package quantity change, D0TZ-A was replaced by D0TZ-B

The 1973/79 C/D truck catalog available to the general public from hipoparts.com was scanned from a 1980 edition, only lists the A. So does the 1964/72 truck catalog (final edition 5/1975).

It's now obsolete, people looking for a replacement are unaware of the part number change (ditto many partsguys), and only a few A's are available NOS

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, there are over 3,000 B's available NOS! Carpenter bought all of FoMoCo's remaining stock, presently has 2,629!

 

The gasket has an '88 number. (after carbs had stopped being put in pickup trucks)
At least the pink ones don't seem to leak.

The "A" suffix is a pack of 5, the only way I could buy them.
Perhaps the "B" suffix are sold individually?

Thanks for your explanation!