2009 - 2014 F150Discuss the 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Ford F150
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Moving the scan gauge from the ROUSH dash vent gauge pod ...
To an A-pillar guage pod ...
A-pillar 2-1/16" single gauge pod from - part # 15212 (intended for 2002-2009 Dodge Ram) *Currently there is no offering for the 2009+ F-150s.
(optional) LH windshield moulding (A-pillar trim) from FoMoCo - part # 9L3Z-1503599-CA (Charcoal Black) *Could modify existing trim.
3M™ Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape - part # 06383 (7/8")
SEM CLASSIC COAT FLEXIBLE COATING Midnight Black - part # 17013
with the A-pillar trim as a fitment gauge, use a heat gun to carefully contort the sides of the gauge pod to conform to the outer contours of the A-pillar trim.
drill a hole in A-pillar trim to allow any wiring, hoses, etc. to pass thru to the pod and eventually the installed guage. *Insure that the hole will be within the length of the position of the pod on the trim.
clean (with soap and water) and degrease (with isopropyl alcohol) the A-pillar trim, the exterior of the gauge pod, AND the interior sides of the gauge pod.
apply the attachment tape to either the pod's mounting position on the outer edge of the A-pillar trim -OR- the inside bottom edges of the pod's sides.
attach the pod to the A-pillar trim and use small clamps along each edge to allow the tape to seat/seal.
clean (with soap and water) and degrease (with isopropyl alcohol) the trim/pod assembly.
when thoroughly dry, apply the flexible coating paint and let dry.
run any necessary wiring, hoses, etc. to and then thru the trim/pod assembly.
(re)install A-pillar trim (with gauge pod).
connect any necessary wiring, hoses, etc. to the gauge.
install the gauge.
Acknowledgement to NGA PLZ for paving-the-way for this mod' ...
2004 F250 SD SCREW; V10, 4R100, 3.73's -- 2006 Expedition XLT; 5.4 V8, 4R75 3.73's -- 1979 F350 Trailer Special; 460, C6, 4.10's Moderation Guidelines and how they are enforced
Be yourself - Always ... Unless you can be Batman, then Always be Batman
For those concerned about explosive bolts, jettisoned objects, and front, side air-curtain deployment ...
When the A-pillar air-curtain deploys it kicks-out the trim at the top and pushes past it leaving the trim/moulding still attached to the A-pillar.
There are 2 clips of different construct that retain the trim/moulding ...
close to the top.
This clip is made to separate at its top, narrow tip. *Learned the hard way that you have to carefully pull the top part of the trim/moulding to remove it otherwise it separates and can drop-down into the cab inner/outer wall.
the clip fits into a slot in the A-pillar that is behind the air-curtain.
~¾ the way down from the top.
this clip is a typical panel clip - teeth grip the plastic pillar on the trim/moulding and the head fits into a slot in the A-pillar.
given that the air-curtain is folded and only extends down (say) 4" from the top of the A-pillar and the fact that the clip is further forward (e.g. closer to the windshield), it doesn't come into any consideration when/if the air-curtain deploys.
When the air-curtain deploys ...
it's expansion pushes past the top of the trim/moulding though may(?) cause it to be slightly out and away from the A-pillar.
the air-curtain extends rearward along the side glass until fully deployed and then deflates.
the lower portion of the trim/moulding remains attached (somewhat) to the A-pillar, however, may be askew at the top
When I installed the scan guage, I left ~12" of wire within the trim/moulding+pod -and- its connection to the guage is a plug and is not bolted/screwed to any post(s). THINKING: Even if the trim/moulding+pod is TOTALLY pushed-out, it has 12" before the guage could separate from the pod, and even then it's a tight/snug 2-1/16" fit.
REMEMBER ... The RH A-pillar trim/moulding (with hand grip) is bolted to the A-pillar.
discussions with FoMoCo dealership bodyshop tech's.
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