Crossing chains allows the chains to fit without having to change lengths on turns. Which means, shorter chains.

 

We have a 16ish ft metal floor wood sides trailer and it was homemade by someone long ago. It is sitting on mobile home axles without functioning brakes. The axles are dead center as well so it is real easy to get too much weight on the rear. It is really a nightmare to tow that thing. I was raised with that trailer though and I thought pulling any trailer was going to be like that. Then a couple years ago we inherited an almost new gatormade 16ft car trailer. HOLY CRAP it is nice. It has all the safety features, everything is set up properly, break away kit, proper length safety chains, professional quality. It has never swayed on me or pushed me around when braking or anything even when it isn't loaded very properly.

My grandfather bought that trailer for around $1500 (Guy bought a 16ft car trailer to haul a golf cart and decided he didn't need a trailer that big). It was about a year old when he bought it. A new one can be bought now for $2000. I very rarely see a safe looking homemade trailer over 10 ft long. The small single axle mower or four wheeler trailers seem to usually be built properly, but these bigger ones, people just do really dangerous things when building and pulling them.

It isn't worth killing someone to save a few hundred bucks when professionally built trailers with all the safety equipment is so cheap. Get one a couple years old and they are still safe and really cheap. It just isn't worth the risks unless you really know what you are doing. It isn't hard to mess things up when there are so many forces involved with a trailer.

 

I had a open car hauler that I bought from a guy who had a few too many nasty accidents with the sprint car he would haul with the trailer. Beautifully built - but the coupler was worn out and something you wouldn't really look at if you saw the quality of the rest of the trailer. It split open on an interstate at 60 or so mph bouncing over a bridge dam. Crossed chains held the tongue while I was able to bring the trailer to a safe stop with my $$$$ street rod - albeit in the middle of the median. The coupler was replaced, the trailer successfully used for another several years until sold about 3-4 years ago. And yes, I did trailer my car to shows over a couple hundred miles, but it was not a trailer queen car.

 

Sad story.

The realities of unconscionable towers outcomes and how it can affect others in the worst way.

Thanks for posting.

 

The only trailer I have is Frankie, my ex-68 F100. The coupler is held onto the tongue with 4 grade 8 bolts. I have a safety chain plate and cross the chains every time I hook up. I have a locking pin for the coupler (theft deterrent) that gets installed and locked every time I hook up. All lights function and are checked each time I hook up. Frankie does not have trailer brakes, but I don't load him up too heavily.
I used to drive semis so I'm a bit **** when it comes to trailer hookups. The driver of the tow vehicle is legally responsible for the trailer, its load, and the safety of those around him. If you're not willing to do it right, don't do it at all!
Here's how I built Frankie: (first three posts following the link) The FORDification.com Forums • View topic - Re: Frodo, the '69 F250 CS: Mirror mounting

 

Thank you for posting this. And thank you to all the replies with advice and proper procedures. I'm new to towing and will be towing a 30' 5er. This just reinforced my mission of learning anything and everything I can about towing safety. I don't want to be the guy who loses a loved one, and I certainly don't want to be the reason someone else is in that position.

On to more research!

 

welcome!

feel free to start a new thread and post up any questions you might have.

great group of guys and gals here!