Any recommendations on what caulk to use on the seams of the roof on my pop up? The edges need it.

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Dicor self-leveling on the horizontal, Dicor non-leveling on the vertical, although I use self-leveling everywhere I can as I find it easier to work with. Pricey, but good stuff.

Steve

 

Any suggestions on the best way to clean the old stuff out without damaging the roof?

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I don't want to start a debate over caulking, but my position would be if it is well stuck down, leave it. The self-leveling will puddle right over it. Otherwise, I use a wide blade "Old Timer" knife I have been using for nearly 30 years. My dealers call it my "putty knife". Pretty sharp, but not like the one I use for fine cutting with a broad blade. Then I just take my time. It really depends on the shape of what is already there.

The worst removal jobs are the one where I have to install a second air conditioner on newer units where the caulking is still fresh and well stuck down. There is will take me longer to get the roof clean and the old vent up, then it does to install the AC. Hate those!

Steve

 

I'll take a picture of the roof when I get home. I will probably just clean it up real good and then use the self-leveling stuff over top of the old stuff. Thanks Steve!!

 

Unless it is really trashed, I don't think there is any reason to get into "overkill".

Steve

 

Just make sure the new caulk goes beyond the old stuff.

 

In my experience there are a number of factors that affect whether caulking holds. Usually Dicor over Dicor or something similar from the factory does pretty well and it is easy enough to tell. Try a little and see how it holds. Once it dries, try to pulling it free. Of course, over silicone or something similar forget it. I realize some folks feel strongly the only way to correctly caulk is to take the old up before putting down new, but I just haven't found that to be necessary in many cases.

Just my thoughts,

Steve

 

Just take it to your local rino liner dealer and have them to a color match rino line on the top.. I just bought one to gut. Top looked sealed well. took the top off and drained 5 gal of water out of it..

 

Steve,

Have you used Eternabond before? It also looks like a good alternative.

Your thoughts?

 

However, DON'T use Dicor on the skylights! They are made of polycarbonate (Lexan), and Dicor will cause them to crack.

There's a special sealant used for skylights only, called SureBond SB-140. Hard to find, but less trouble in the long run.


Pop

 

I used a roll of that Eternabond tape to reseal the seams on the top of my slides. It looks like the stuff the factory uses. It works well, you just have to make sure you press it down as hard as you can.

 

I do use Eternabond and it is good stuff but pricey. If you run it across the roof so the wind hits the edge, you should run a bead of caulk as it will lift over time. Also needs a clean surface. I do not use it to seal vents or sky lites as it seems to do less well in those applications, perhaps due to incomplete surface prep. It does not remove the need for careful workmanship and I too often see it applied carelessly as though it will make up for sloppy work (not saying that applies to anyone in this forum, I just see a lot of bad stuff).

Steve

 

If you buy a sky lite or sky lite kit, the caulking comes with it, at least with all the ones I order. You will also need a roll of putty tape if doing a replacement.

Steve

 

I ordered a skylight and I didn't expect to have the caulking come with it, so didn't go through the packing material very well. After ordering and waiting for the SB-140 to arrive separately, and after the install was complete and curing, I was throwing away the box, and I found the tube.

Now I have a spare that I keep in the refrigerator.

Pop