long story short, I am putting a new double roller timing set on the old 400. I have the crank at TDC but when I slide on my cam and crank gear with the new chain the marks seem to look a link off from being lined up. I did take it off and tried to bump it over a link to see if it would line up but no dice, it was way off. The crank sprocket is lining up with the the keyway, but it seems like the cam needs turned about 1/4" to make both marks dead on. Any ideas, should i turn the cam to line up? I haven't moved anything since pulling off the old crap, but it was so worn out I wonder the cam is actually a smidge off.

 

. Cam prolly lagged behind/retarded from the old stretched chain...

. Also, stock timing setups may have advanced or retarded the cam timing... Chevy advanced theirs, I think Ford retarded theirs, for emissions purposes...

 

yeah, originally it was retarded 4, I got a 3 slot crank sprocket, and was going to set it up straight up, but didn't know if I should try to turn the cam to get the marks perfect.

 

. Oh sure, once when close, can just turn the cam slightly to get it right... don't want to turn the cam a lot and push the valves into the pistons...

. If a stock low compression ratio '79 engine, may consider installing it 4 degrees advanced to compensate...

 

When I did mine I went straight up. I did have to give the cam position a little tweak.

 

its all good, got it on there with a slight budge. It has a mild isky cam in it, according to the build paperwork from the mid 80s, but it was still being run 4 degree retarded from what i could tell. Just waiting on the water pump, very worried that it needs rings though. I already had the pan off, and when i turned the crank to get TDC i could definitely hear a little hiss from underneath. I am really starting to think i just should have bought a used 460. Just when i think i am done with a tune-up something else is bad. All i want to do is drive the thing.

 

. Unless you have zero gap rings, definitely going to hear some air leak past the ring gaps when turning the engine over with the pan off... the ring gap tightens up when the rings get hot when running...

. Some 351C pistons from TMI can fix the low compression ratio, if not done already... make that Isky cam work better... boost MPG...

. You got 4-bbl. carb. and headers/dual exhaust?

 

just a 2bbl carb and regular exhaust manifolds right now. that is a relief to know about the rings though. My main reason for taking the pan off was to replace the rear main seal which i did, but when i heard the hissing sound, it made me think that there was extra pressure coming from the cylinder chamber which caused the seal to leak.

I have been checking some posts about getting a little more power out of the old dog, but it all seems pretty pricey for me right now. I may start looking for parts on craigslist for a 4bbl manifold but that will be down the road a bit.

Just a quick question though, i have all the paperwork for the the rebuild of the motor back in 1986, and found my Isky Cam specs.

Intake \\ Exhaust

Open 24 B-TDC\\ Open 60 B-TDC
Close 66 A-TDC\\ Close 30 A-TDC
Cam Lift .293\\ Cam Lift .293
Valve lift .518\\ Valve Lift .518

Does this sound decent for this motor? I know during idle the thing sounds mean as hell. I just want to get the best out of it if i can.

 

. Looks as big as or bigger than the 218/228 durations @ .050" cam I was considering for when I convert my 351M to a 400/408...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k5201

 

please correct me if i'm wrong, but when installing the timing set straight up, there isn't any need to correct ignition timing is there? I just finished up my timing set install along with a few other things and now the sob wont start. I haven't gotten the timing gun out yet, but wasn't really thinking i was going to have to. any ideas?

 

. Distributor runs off cam gear, so ignition timing changes with cam advance/retard...

. However, if it won't start at all, may have distributor stabbed in at the wrong crank rotation... also, make sure wires all reconnected... if have a horseshoe connector to coil, make sure it's making good connection... (check for spark (& gas) before getting wrenches out)

. Distributor/cam rotates ONCE for each TWO rotations of the crankshaft, so distributor may be on the wrong crankshaft rotation... put crank at TDC, pull distributor, rotate crank one turn, re-insert distributor with rotor ending up pointing at #1 sparkplug/terminal...

 

well, it is definitely an electrical gremlin of some sort. I believe the crappy old wiring harness is playing some tricks. No spark sometimes, then after just pulling and moving wires she started, then tried again and no spark again.

 

. A test meter or 12v bulb can help pin down where it's not making contact...

 

already on that, apparently the previous owner was an electrical engineer (or thought he was) lots of new stuff thrown in with the old stuff, such a PITA

 

. Mine died the other day... I thought it was the ignition brain box, because I jiggled the clip on the coil and it still wouldn't start... and I thought I hadn't replaced the box along with the pickup coil... paid $71 for tow home after 5 hour wait for tow truck... turns out I had replaced the box, put the old one back on to test that, still wouldn't start... still no spark... pulled that damned horseshoeplug all the way off the coil and pushed it back on... fat strong spark... started instantly, been starting and running ever since again... that clip gives trouble about every 3-5 years... I was pissed...

. Still may switch to a GM style HEI for Fords... my old Chevy Monte Carlo used to start so fast you seldom heard the starter crank... this 351M always cranks over several times before any sign of life... it starts reliably, but I'd like it to also start instantly... should make the starter last 3 or 4 times longer... make me stop wondering if it's going to start while it cranks... save gas, cleaner exhaust on startup...