looks like we're in a neck and neck race, Nick. hopefully we both win! i just straightened my rad support/hood latch strap last night as well. hopefully i'll be doing the final blasting and welding on the rad support tonight, then painting her up this weekend.

where are the pics of your progress, though. i have to make sure i'm doing stuff right :-)

 

Ha. I keep looking through your thread and saying, ohhhhh that's how I should have done that lol

 

I look at both you guys threads and see things I wish I had done!

 

ha - you guys are too nice.

...and the grass is always greener in someone else's rebuild, right?

 

See here's the thing JP. I'm doing a motor. I love to have the time and patience to do a whole truck

 

I have pretty much completed the efuel on the old girl. All I have left to do is solder the power and ground wires to the pump. For the wiring I used this as a basic reference point


The fuel pump and mount came from a 01 van. I made up a quick mount got the filter bases and bent the stainless to go in. A note for anyone doing this part. MAKE SURE YOUR TANK IS EMPTY. That tank is full. And the fuel comes out surprisingly fast lol. I connected the stainless lines with compression fittings. I'm going to try to find a shorter pre filter though cause I don't like this one hanging so low. I also want to build a guard for it. The filters are mounted right behind the transfer case.

Most of you have seen the routing on top of the motor but for those who haven't.


I didn't want relays and fuses just put wherever so I ran that part through the power distribution box. I put a 20 amp maxi fuse in and wires it to the relay and down to the pump. Then I took supplied power from the fuel heater down to the oil pressure switch and back to the relay for regular run time. I also ran a wire from the power side of the gpr to the oil pressure switch for startup. We will see how it works. The pdb was pretty easy to get Into but I could not find any of those fancy little clips that snap into them around here. I ended up raiding the wrecker for some and soldered them to the wires.

There are red clips that lock all the wires into place. There removed in the photo but they need to be out in orde to put the new harness in.

wires go in like so

Solder and shrink tube. I didn't get a pic with all the wires. Sorry

All back together.

 

Looks good Nick!

 

Looks real good Nick! i'll be referencing your pics when i put my system together!

one line concerns me a bit though:

you may have thought through this already, but won't you be backfeeding your GPs with power from the oil pressure switch when its closed? i.e. your GPs will be on all the time?

and an unreleated question: i'm looking at my SD bosch fuel pump here - which side is in, which side is out? there is no indication on the pump itself. i'd guess the threaded end next to the electrical contacts is "in" and the tube stub end is "out" but that's just an assumption... i think i see a rubber booted connector on the threaded end in your pic, above, but its hard to tell.

 

Wow that looks awesome Nick! Makes me wanna get E-Fuel on mine. Theres a crapton of stuff I have to get for that old girl, but for now it runs so I'll just keep it how it is.

I like your idea for going into the power distribution box. Makes for a clean looking set up for sure.

Keep it up!!

 

I think you would, but you could probably put a diode in the wire from the GPs to the oil pressure switch to prevent backfeed.

As for the wiring diagram you posted, I disagree with where the rollover switch is located. IMO it should be between the relay and fuel pump, that way if the relay fails (fuses closed) in an accident, the rollover switch can still cut power to the pump.

 

The op switch has 3 terminals. Normally open, normally closed and common. Only 2 terminals can be closed at any time with common being constant.
i.e.
NO and CO, NC is not connected.
Or
NC and CO, NO is not connected.

The power Cannot back feed to the glow plugs because once there is oil pressure the oil pressure switch will take the power from the bowl heater and open the glow plug circuit. I hope that made sense.

You have me a little concerned about the fuel pump. I'm sure when I took it out that the threaded end was out. Now I am questioning it though.

 

That makes total sense. I didn't realize it's a 3 terminal switch. That should work perfect.

 

Here's hoping. I'm going to attempt to put the starter in tonight and put the batteries back in it so I can check for leaks. Oh and run the power source for the gauges. Still gotta do that. Probably easier to check and fix anything around the motor before I put the rad and I/c pipes in. Crap I gotta go to the parts store too. I realized last night that one of my ic boots is almost blown through. Might as well get it now

 

You can't backfeed the glow plugs in anyway. The glow plug relay is controlled by a ground that comes from the pcm.

And the end of the pump with the wiring terminals on it is the "out" end.

 

I just figured the out on the pump.