My computer is throwing a P132B code, not seeing the boost it's expecting. I'm getting about 15 psi boost at WOT.

Now, I've got the characteristic back-of-engine oil leak which stops soon after shutdown, so I think my CAC boots need to be replaced.

But I also took the intake off last week and found my compressor blades are pretty badly chewed up.

Was just wondering, what's more likely to cause loss of boost: bad CAC boots or messed up compressor blades? I'm planning to fix both, but the boots will happen first as they're 1/3 of the cost of a used replacement turbo (or half the cost of a Wicked Wheel, if it turns out the compressor is the only problem with the turbo).

 

The boots are a big contributor. Prior to doing my CCv reroute into an approved container, I had boot issues. It got so bad that the main intake elbow that hooks to the compressor intake side of the turbo was completely eaten away at the bottom from the normal oil in the system before my CCV reroute. Can't see it until you remove it. I replaced all my boots with awesome replacement parts from riff raff (boots) and an OEM elbow.
I also chased an intermittent low turbo boost scenario for a while. Thanks to blade35 I found it. It was my MAF connection that was a bit loose from removing it. Problem solved.

Good luck
Joe

 

I'll start with the boots then. The oil drip is driving me nuts anyway.

 

man I would replace that turbo asap. Sounds like the chewed up compressor fins aren't being able to compress the needed air to boost the engine. Those are the things that turbocharge the air. I would replace turbo then figure out whats up with your air intake system causing them to get chewed up

 

Sorry.....I didn't catch the chewed up blade part (viewing on my small phone)

Yeah bro aside from what I told you that is applicable to a HEALTHY turbo your main problem right now is figuring out why your compressor wheel got chewed up. Did it suck something through the intake or is the lateral bearing play on the shaft so bad it is contacting. This needs to be figured out ASAP before you start dumping money into other stuff.

Good Luck

 

The dusted cyclinder from all the dirt that eat up the compressor wheel

 

I appreciate the concern about the compressor wheel. However ... this engine has very little blowby. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'd think if the engine had eaten part of the compressor wheel, the rings would be in bad shape (or the cylinder walls would be scored), causing significant blowby.

Now, how is that possible? The engine in my truck has a big "Ford Remanufactured" sticker on the passenger valve head.

I'm thinking what happened was the engine got replaced by the PO and for some reason the turbo wheel was not. But who really knows.

Everything I've seen with Torque Pro, blowby, and engine performance indicate the engine is in really good shape.

What I don't know at this time is how much side-to-side or lateral play there is in the turbo bearings. All I've gotten a look at so far is the wheel.

 

Axel and radial play should be .003 iirc.
What happens is the dust that enters the the turbo will polish the cyclinder walls to a mirror like finish. This is a result of high compression engines.
Just one possible awnser to your question.

 

Is there a way, other than blowby or a teardown, to determine whether that's what's happened?

 

Blowby test if you have the tools is very simple. Relitive compression could help if it was only one cyclinder down.
132b is a very hard code to diag and can be from almost anything from egr, ficm, fuel pump, base engine boost leaks, stuck turbo, bad icp connector or sensor, a bad high pressure oil pump.
The list of stuff that could be is hugh. Start with easy first.