1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Well I cked all 4 trucks and the frame rig (5th) and they all have the same holes that allow you access to the bolts that hold down some frame top plates/brake line clamps, and to get to the front motor perch hdrw on both sides, and the bump stop. And yes nice place for the mice to access the frame to build a home, the littel fuzzy chits.
In order of pics
1. L/H 79 ol red D44
2. R/H 79 ol red D44
3. R/H 79 ol red D44
(4) L/H silver 77.5 D44 (w/leaking steering box)
(5) R/H blue 78 D44
(6) R/H maroon parts truck D60
(7,8) L/H-R/H frame rig D60
FYI the cobbed up stuff (front spring perch drop, shock drop bracket and brake line BS) you see on the frame rig is thanks to the dumb a.. PO.
I also like the clean look of the chassis exits. There is plenty if clearance for the exhaust running down the chassis and really no issues with the crossmembers. It's a little tight going by the T-case, but I don't have any issues with mine. I have also been able to take the headers on and off with no problem.
Wow, I missed a bunch of activity on this post. Glad to hear I don't need to worry about patching up a bunch of holes.
L&L Motor mounts - I thought I read on their site that they claim to locate the engine in the stock position. When I used them, I found that the clutch linkage Z-bar no longer sat level (must have lowered the . I made a thread about knocking out the engine side post and relocating it to level out the Z-bar.
For the fender exit headers, yes, you do need to trim the inner fenders (especially if you don't have a body lift). I am planning to try a used set of plastic liners which will probably need trimmed also. If the melt and warp, I'll take them out.
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