Yea looks like there's another $150 bucks.. a never ending process lol

 

Disk brakes don't completely release like drums do, there should never be an actual gap between the pads and the disk. And as a result if you jack up a wheel and spin it, it will never spin freely with disk brakes like it would with a well adjusted drum brake. So it sounds to me like your right front brake is working correctly.

That said, if it were me I'd probably replace the right caliper after doing this much to everything else.

 

Makes sense. I think I'll replace it anyway. Better now while its tore apart then later I guess.

Thanks for the heads up

 

Replace both calipers.

 

Will do. thanks all Ill keep ya posted.

 

Calipers must be replaced in pairs. And they should not cost $150 each.

 

$140 for both is what I'm paying..

 

Shop around then. Rockauto.com has Motorcraft (top quality) unloaded (no pads) calipers for $57 each. The cheapest ones are $34 each.

 

Not completely true. DOT 3 and 4 will mix fine. Basically, the greater the number, the higher the boiling point and more resistance to moisture absorption. DOT 5.1 is a rare breed, although based on the same chemical makeup of 3 & 4, I wouldn't use it unless you were stranded somewhere and that was all you had...so we'll just forget about that one for now.

DOT 5 should NEVER be used in a system that wasn't designed for it. DOT 5 is silicone based, and will gel up when mixed with 3, 4, or 5.1. It was designed for use in applications where its resistance to water absorption (and therefore low corrosion) was desired - like in military equipment. It has also found use in antique cars because it does not dissolve paint finishes.

 

Yea I picked up some DOT 3 to put in there so to late now... I also ordered left and rear loaded raybestos calipers from rockauto, $140. I thought about motorcraft but I've used Raybestos for my ball joint, tie rods, etc. They seem to do their job..

Thanks ya'll!

 

Okay so I got everything put back together and bled the brakes. I'm still having some sloshy peddle issues. I heard I might need to bleed the ABS something or other along the frame rail?

I've tightened up the rear drums so please no comments on how stupid I am for driving around with no rear brakes!

Thanks y'all

 

You need to bleed the RABS hydraulic module too.

 

Thats what I thought, thanks wheres that located and in what order should I bleed? RR, LR, RABS, FR, LR??

Thanks

 

Yes and you should do it in the correct order.

Right rear
Left rear
ABS module
Right front
Left front

Ideally you do this with a partner. With the valve closed:
- pump the brakes up three times
- have your partner release the bleeder while you hold the pedal down
- close the valve
- release the pedal

repeat until you get clear, bubble-free fluid out of each bleeder.

 

Great thanks. Where's the ABS module located??