Re checked the ignition and it seems like I missed something last time around

When I took the cap off I noticed the rotor pickup (the springy thing in the middle) had a fair amount of corrosion on it. I cleaned it with a brass brush.

Then I started it on the rear tank. It started much faster then before but still had to crank for a few seconds and it stumbles a little. I drove it around a little and it is much better then before, but still past 60% throttle or so it cuts out and bogs.

Here's a weird thing:
I re-checked the fuel pressure with the truck at idle and it was a steady 30-32 on front and rear tanks.

 

Why don't you loose that junk ACCEL cap and rotor and just buy a Wells and see if that fixes it.

 

Man this truck has me stumped!! and angry...

Since replacing the cap and rotor she ran better for 2 or so weeks. Still took forever to start and it was cutting out and stuttering hard after 40-50% throttle. Then it completely died on me at an intersection and I had to push it into a parking lot!

I found that I was getting no spark at the coil so using the test light method and a Haynes manual I figured out it was the ICM. I had previously replaced this 5 months ago with a cheap Standard Motor Products one (it was black) so I figured whatever is really wrong is taxing the ICM more then normal.

So being the cheapskate I am I went and bought one from autozone that has a lifetime warranty . Installed it and the truck starts fast and smooth and idles nice and if you drive it immediately it runs well but less then a minute later it will start to cut out and bog after 50% throttle and it gets worse as time goes by. Hard starting after its warm, but when you come back it will start nicely and do the same thing as before.

What could this be? I have no codes besides 111, and the fuel pressure is a steady 32 at idle. I have tested the coil. Timing is at 12 degrees.

Please help! Its getting cold and riding my motorcycle sucks! haha

 

You're in Arizona. When you say "cold", you mean something like 80 degrees, right ?

You've got a tough problem, sounds like. Gonna be tough to track down.

 

Nah man, It was down to 60 if you can believe it!

Yea she's been the bane of my existence for the last 3 months. No way I'm paying a repair shop 90$ an hour to try to figure it out!

 

Sampson767 Good luck this exact thing happend to me on my 93 back a couple years ago. It had me so mad I ripped out all the computer stuff and put a carb on it! now its a mud toy though

Good luck man I really hope you find out the issue with you truck!

 

Haha thanks for the support slingsaws, kind of disheartening to hear you resorted to carbing the truck!


Funny you mention that though, all of my carbed engines run GREAT!


I have read about people pulling the PCM and inspecting the inside of it. I'm going to do this when I get home tonight.

 

I was a newly married kid with no money paying way to much for rent lol. It was the cheepest option. I dummped a lot of money into it and never figure out what was wrong and never figured out. I gota think these guys will get you squared away!

 

Yea money is tight here too. I've read a few posts where people have spent 500-1000$ on diagnostics from a repair shop just to replace the reccommended part and still have the same problem. Screw that!

Where you live do you have to do emmision testing? How did your 93' carbbed truck pass?

I have also tried unplugging the MAP sensor and it made no difference.

 

Nope down here in Florida we dont have Emisions unless they pull you over for smothing bad. Or if you a idiot to the cop on a traffic stop they will do a once or twice over your rig . few buddys got nailed this way.

 

one thought, I remember reading about a sencer located around the throttle body that would crack due to heat buildup and cause erattic problems. Any one have any idea what this could be?