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U Joint Installation - 1st Timer!

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Old 04-28-2014, 07:00 AM
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U Joint Installation - 1st Timer!

So in my quest to learn the basics I have managed with the help of FTE to successfully replace my output seal on my transfer case and now I need to replace the u joints. I had an issue with my output seal not fitting the first time we ordered one from napa so I don't want to have the same issue on my u joints. My truck downtime was a week and I can't afford that with my u joint replacement.

I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???

Thanks!
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:41 AM
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I would guess they are standard size, unless some custom work has been done to the d/s or input/output flanges?

Take one out and take it with you to be sure, or at least have the measurements cap to cap width.

There are probably a few options for u j-joints brands. Like cheap, sealed house brand, or a little more $ and have a grease zert that threads in. I like the option to lube it like the rest of the drive train.

Moog, Lakewood Performance, Dana-Spicer and Duralast Gold are maybe some options.

There is always aftermarket high dollar CTM, but now were are talking changing flange sizes.

Front Axle U-Joints - CTM Racing
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:53 AM
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Spicer joints are pretty darn good. If you can find them go for it. I am also doing my U joints and all I could find were the parts store hose brand.

For some mutual help here: Does anyone know some tips for getting the darn joint out of the shaft? I was using two sockets and a vice. The vice ended up snapping off at the base from too much leverage.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:58 AM
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I used a C clamp...
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:00 AM
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O'reilly's has a ball/u-joint press that you can use for free. Just have to leave a deposit that is refunded when you return it. I just used it to replace all my u-joints on my driveshafts. I replaced them with spicer joints I got off e-bay. Very easy to use.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:21 AM
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Using a press is the best route and the hammer and socket trick, is better for a trail side fix. They do make c clamp tool kits for the job.

Google
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Whistlepig Hollow
So in my quest to learn the basics I have managed with the help of FTE to successfully replace my output seal on my transfer case and now I need to replace the u joints. I had an issue with my output seal not fitting the first time we ordered one from napa so I don't want to have the same issue on my u joints. My truck downtime was a week and I can't afford that with my u joint replacement.

I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???

Thanks!
You probably have either a 1310 or 1330 u-joint. Measure end of cap to end of cap. Also measure the cap diameter.

For reference my 1330 u-joint is 3 5/8" with 1 1/16" cap diameter.

To remove and install I purchased a press tool a few years ago. Looks like a big C clamp with hollow ends. Works great and was a good investment.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:10 AM
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Going along with above suggestions, install the u-joints so the grease fittings are in line with each other. Makes it easier when lubing.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:07 PM
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Thanks y'all! I have splicer joints currently as I could read it on the visible cap. I forgot about tool rental from o Reilly that is a great suggestion. I guess I will try and source some new joints first before undertaking the replacement
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:40 PM
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I just got my Bronco back together Friday after getting new ball joints and front axle u-joints. Used Spicer u-joints and XRF ball joints. I used the rental tool from oreillys. I bought my own OTC socket for the balljoint adjusting sleeve. I already had the 4 toothed socket for the front wheel bearing nuts.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 06:57 PM
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All this tool talk got me to order this....OEM/Ball joint/U-Joint press set with 4WD service set (27089) | Ball Joint Press | AutoZone.com

I have some "stuff" that needs some work, so instead of a 24 mile round road trip, I decided to buy one instead of renting.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:31 PM
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Use the rental tool. If front housing and xfer case are both flanged, remove driveshaft and compare u joint in store, I've read that there are many many different u joints used from 73-79.

You many want to get the u joints with no grease fitting. They are solid, not hollow, thus stronger.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:45 PM
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Here is what he is talking about.

The "to be sealed and solid" or "have a grease zert, thus a real small grease channel to have grease in and that means weaker....." is a long heated discussion in some circles.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!to...ch/IevsvjiXZqc

U-Joints - Greasable Or Non-Greasable ??? - Jeep Wrangler Forum

greasable u-joints vs. non greasable

332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: U-joints, good ones?
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:36 PM
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I have to google search every term y'all use, I am that inept at wrenching. I found some spicer joints on ebay and they aren't too expensive. Now I have to figure out how to measure my joints!
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:04 PM
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Tape measure and go outer edge of end cap to outer edge of the other end cap. (W) & (D) just in case....Or take one with you to the parts store.

Here it the alternate method to the C clamp...lol
 
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