U Joint Installation - 1st Timer!
#1
U Joint Installation - 1st Timer!
So in my quest to learn the basics I have managed with the help of FTE to successfully replace my output seal on my transfer case and now I need to replace the u joints. I had an issue with my output seal not fitting the first time we ordered one from napa so I don't want to have the same issue on my u joints. My truck downtime was a week and I can't afford that with my u joint replacement.
I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???
Thanks!
I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???
Thanks!
#2
I would guess they are standard size, unless some custom work has been done to the d/s or input/output flanges?
Take one out and take it with you to be sure, or at least have the measurements cap to cap width.
There are probably a few options for u j-joints brands. Like cheap, sealed house brand, or a little more $ and have a grease zert that threads in. I like the option to lube it like the rest of the drive train.
Moog, Lakewood Performance, Dana-Spicer and Duralast Gold are maybe some options.
There is always aftermarket high dollar CTM, but now were are talking changing flange sizes.
Front Axle U-Joints - CTM Racing
Take one out and take it with you to be sure, or at least have the measurements cap to cap width.
There are probably a few options for u j-joints brands. Like cheap, sealed house brand, or a little more $ and have a grease zert that threads in. I like the option to lube it like the rest of the drive train.
Moog, Lakewood Performance, Dana-Spicer and Duralast Gold are maybe some options.
There is always aftermarket high dollar CTM, but now were are talking changing flange sizes.
Front Axle U-Joints - CTM Racing
#3
Spicer joints are pretty darn good. If you can find them go for it. I am also doing my U joints and all I could find were the parts store hose brand.
For some mutual help here: Does anyone know some tips for getting the darn joint out of the shaft? I was using two sockets and a vice. The vice ended up snapping off at the base from too much leverage.
For some mutual help here: Does anyone know some tips for getting the darn joint out of the shaft? I was using two sockets and a vice. The vice ended up snapping off at the base from too much leverage.
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So in my quest to learn the basics I have managed with the help of FTE to successfully replace my output seal on my transfer case and now I need to replace the u joints. I had an issue with my output seal not fitting the first time we ordered one from napa so I don't want to have the same issue on my u joints. My truck downtime was a week and I can't afford that with my u joint replacement.
I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???
Thanks!
I will be replacing the u joints on my front drive shaft as they are squeaking awful when I drive. My question is another silly newb one: how do I size my u joints to napa for replacements? Are they a standard size or will I have to remove them first before sourcing???
Thanks!
For reference my 1330 u-joint is 3 5/8" with 1 1/16" cap diameter.
To remove and install I purchased a press tool a few years ago. Looks like a big C clamp with hollow ends. Works great and was a good investment.
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I just got my Bronco back together Friday after getting new ball joints and front axle u-joints. Used Spicer u-joints and XRF ball joints. I used the rental tool from oreillys. I bought my own OTC socket for the balljoint adjusting sleeve. I already had the 4 toothed socket for the front wheel bearing nuts.
#11
All this tool talk got me to order this....OEM/Ball joint/U-Joint press set with 4WD service set (27089) | Ball Joint Press | AutoZone.com
I have some "stuff" that needs some work, so instead of a 24 mile round road trip, I decided to buy one instead of renting.
I have some "stuff" that needs some work, so instead of a 24 mile round road trip, I decided to buy one instead of renting.
#12
Use the rental tool. If front housing and xfer case are both flanged, remove driveshaft and compare u joint in store, I've read that there are many many different u joints used from 73-79.
You many want to get the u joints with no grease fitting. They are solid, not hollow, thus stronger.
You many want to get the u joints with no grease fitting. They are solid, not hollow, thus stronger.
#13
Here is what he is talking about.
The "to be sealed and solid" or "have a grease zert, thus a real small grease channel to have grease in and that means weaker....." is a long heated discussion in some circles.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!to...ch/IevsvjiXZqc
U-Joints - Greasable Or Non-Greasable ??? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
greasable u-joints vs. non greasable
332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: U-joints, good ones?
The "to be sealed and solid" or "have a grease zert, thus a real small grease channel to have grease in and that means weaker....." is a long heated discussion in some circles.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!to...ch/IevsvjiXZqc
U-Joints - Greasable Or Non-Greasable ??? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
greasable u-joints vs. non greasable
332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: U-joints, good ones?
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