Very simple way. get an Absolute RLS 130, 5-way relay, under $4.00 on Amazon.


Now remove the buzzer, (located above glove box compartment)

Take note and mark on the buzzer the ground wire (Black, Not the black with pink) mark the buzzer tab.

Note the Red/Pink dashed wire on the harness, and mark the buzzer tab.

Note the Green wire on the harness, and mark the buzzer tab.

Disconnect buzzer from harness.

Take the red/pink slot from harness and connect to relay #30.

To the left of red/pink, there is a brown wire that you can not plug anything into. Cut this wire and connect to 86 on relay.

Take ground slot on harness (black wire)and connect to relay 85, AND to buzzer green tab.

Position buzzer so there is the two tabs on top and four on the bottom, Top left tab of buzzer to 87 on relay.

With doors closed, key off, turn on lights, should be quiet, now open the door. should buzz.

 

Interesting, my 84 F250 had the key and lights buzzer working from the factory. I even upgraded it to the newer ones for the more plesent ding-dong. Must be a option on some trucks.

 

Yes, that was part of an option package. I've added it to Dad's truck.

 

Most didn't get the lights on one. that's why the buzzer on those trucks will not have the brown wire plug-in on the buzzer.
Thanks Gary for the relay lesson an while back,

 

Looks like the lesson "took". You've been using them, and using them well. This approach will let someone put the seatbelt buzzer, that all of them had, to work in a more productive fashion.

 

Mat upgrade the buzzer to a newer "chime"

 

Here it is Gary, done a while ago.

 

Is there any way to incorporate both features without the factory option wiring? I'd love to do this, but I wouldn't mind keeping the door buzzer.

-James Huston

 

Don't see why not, It's the brown wire on the harness (were the tab is missing on the buzzer it's self is the one that triggers the buzzer). But you'd have to experiment with the wiring config.

 

Is the Chime a direct replacement (plug in. No cutting/splicing) for the old style buzzer? If so, what is the part number (or year/model) needed to order one?

 

Is there anyway to make it so this chime works, instead of a buzz?


Is there a chime module on Amazon that I could wire into my truck so it only works when my lights are on?

 

I would REALLY like the lights only buzzer. My truck does not even have a buzzer.

 

That dinger was in the '90s cars & trucks and, *to my knwledge*, is a direct replacement in the later model trucks of the 80-86 generation (1982+? 1984+? Whatever year they began incorporating the two unique buzzers into a single unit... I think it was 1982 but don't remember for certain).

The "door open" buzzer, that name is a misnomer... it's intended purpose is actually a *key is in the ignition* buzzer to tell you you've left the keys in the ignition; I've found it useful at times but YMMV.

I wish Ralph were still here....

 

So what you're telling me, that in my loaded '86 Lariat, that came with a factory buzzer that told me my headlights were on and that my key was in the ignition...would basically be a plug & play for the 'newer' modules? Do you know if they have the same wiring connector?

 

Yes, that's correct - not basically but exactly - they *look to have* the same wiring connector as those used on earlier vehicles (making it truly plug and play) but I've never actually done it so can't definitively say one way or another.

I'll bet if you searched this forum enough, you'd find more info on it - look for posts by 81-F-150-Explorer on the topic, he was one of our resident wiring experts who seems to have disappeared.

I have one or two in my garage that I got from a JY but have never tried to actually install one in the truck (I can't do that without modifications, my truck is a 1981 and uses two unique buzzers). I *may* have even cut off a pigtail connector from the wiring harness of a donor vehicle, that would let me match up the wire colors to the truck. But all that stuff is in a box someplace in my garage and isn't real important ATM.

But I'll bet it would "just work."