Ok so I am in for the night. Went out to eat and a movie with the wife so I had to cut my day short but it was very productive since the truck is now starting easy and under its own power.

So the issues in order of my fixing were as follows.

1) My IPR somehow blew that little tun nut off into the valley and decided to slide the electro-magnet and spacer off the back.

Luckily I had been looking around on here and I found a post stating that this could be an issue so I had already picked up the correct nut and put everything back and was good to go on that.

2)The GPR was cracked and the output stud was not connected and needed to be replaced. (been in the teens and single digits the last week and the barn is not heated unless I am in it)

Picked up a replacement and hooked it up and all is good.

3) I had wired the fuel pump into the original wiring that my 5.4L had been plugged into. This causes a few problems. The old wiring was only carrying around 6V which the fuel pump requires 12V, so this meant that fuel pressure was not being brought up anywhere near as high as it need to be. the other problem was that the ground for that wiring was to the frame and not back to the PCM to complete the circuit.

To fix these issues I spliced into and made my own harness that connects to the correct pins up in the engine bay on the transmission harness. Once this was down the pump now gets 12v when you turn the key on.

4) I had taken the fender off to take a look at the IDM to probe the wires to make sure everything was good. In doing so I had also inadvertently unhooked the IDM grounding wire from the inner fender which I tracked down because of an intermittent buzz test.

Once I got this back tightened down the buzz test completed and passed.

5) Since it has been cold and the continuous cranking the batteries had been worn down so they needed a good boost.

Once I got the booster on it cranked and fired right up as if nothing had been wrong!


So a bunch of little things all added up to a no start.

I also got the headlights and grill back on and the pyro and trans temp gauges up and running.





And what you have all been waiting for!!!!!!! I give you the FrankenBee!

 

I just went to my garage and told my 7.3 that THEBIGBEE was alive and kicking.. correction FRANKENBEE

Pretty sure my truck blew its horn in celebration. LOL

CONGRATS your hard work has paid off.

 

Congrats bud! We'll have it out in the streets in a week or so.

Gotta love the sound of a good running 7.3

 

Good stuff......looks like the tach needs some life breathed into it.....lol

You probably mentioned it somewhere but what intake you using? Stock turbo and wheel or something different?

 

I have the 6637 going back on it from the donor truck. The turbo was swapped out for a van turbo so it is non-waste-gated and EBPV deleted as well.

As far as the tach goes and most all the gauges on the dash I will have to see as this is the cluster from my 5.4L so it may be looking for a different signal than the truck is giving now.

The only known working gauges on the cluster right now are Fuel level and Oil Pressure. the rest have not moved.

Rich stopped by this morning and got the drive shafts out so I will try and drop those off to get re-sized tomorrow.

I am working out a problem with an intermittent accelerator pedal at the moment, I am going to pull it and go and swap it out at Napa as it is brand new. When the truck starts it is reading 100% and almost 5 volts through AE.

Also I have to track down why my 4WD will not engage as well. flip switch on dash and nothing.

 

If you need pin outs for the diesel and gas clusters let me kbow i have all wiring diagrams 99-08 just give me thd year of each!

 

Thanks I have the program you have me but it does not include the 2002 f250 diagrams. I had to source them elsewhere. I believe it is different clusters between the gas and diesel but not for sure. I did a quick search and the ford part numbers actually seem to be the same for 2002 gas and diesel clusters.

 

Ok so the radio is back in and the exhaust is mocked up but I need to get hangers since I had custom headers and duals on the gas motor the hangers were all in the wrong places.

I have a bad sensor on my boost gauge I believe, anyone know how to get a new isspro sender for an ev2 0-40psi?

Need to figure out the 4wd issue still and get my F650 dash wired back up, but it is coming together finally!

 

Looks great congrats on getting it running!

I'm guessing you kept the transfer case that was already in your truck? If so, I'd want to guess it's a grounding issue. Use a set of jumper cables and take the negative from the battery and connect it to the transfer case and try again.

Probably worth checking the plug to the t-case motor and the fuse for it as well.

Good luck! I can't wait to see it first elevens on blacktop

 

I have checked the plug and the fuses but I have to check the actual wiring. (color and connector) As I reused my trans/transfer case wiring harness from my truck. If it comes down to it I can just make my own harness for the two plugs on the transfer case and wire them into the correct pins on the original harness. I believe it is only 6-8 wires.

I will check the ground as well thank you.

I am dropping my drive shafts off today to get re-sized and they should be done sometime next week.

 

Drive shafts have been dropped off I am having them replace my carrier and u-joints as well since its off. They should be done Wednesday at the latest.

I need to head to Napa too so I can swap out the pedal to see if that it my issue.

 

Xmontex4 if you could pull up the 2002 clusters both gas and diesel that would be great.

 

Will do ill get them tonight!

 

Got the new pedal in and it doesn't peg to 100% when I start the truck! Bad part straight from the box stupid pedal!

 

Sweet! Glad that took care of that one!!

I am assuming that it revs properly now also right....