Hi Guys, Replaced the seals on my turbos and reinstalled them this weekend, but now I am getting a no start condition. It sat about a week with the tubos off, but i drove it into the shop with no problem. I am assuming (pretty sure) that I have air in the fuel system. I have read several posts and am going to bleed the system after work today. My question is, I don't remember the specific codes, but will air cause the codes for fuel pressure regulator low and something about the HPFP to show along with the wrench symbol? Also, when I get the air out, do I need to clear the codes before I try to start, or will the codes go away when the PCM sees that everything is ok?
Get that sucker running yet, Geez Louise,
It should start without clearing the codes.
PM me your phone number, one of these days I might need a hand pulling a turbo off, and I know you know the in and outs.
No, it isn't running yet. Trust me, I am ready too. It's going to feel like a new truck when I get it going. I am home now and I cleared and ran the codes again. They are as follows: (new ones showed up)
P-1000 Mass/volume air flow circ range/perf
p-0488 EGR throttle pos ctrl (I know why this one is here)
p-0091 Fuel press regulator ctr circ low
p- 0003 Fuel Volume Regulator ctrl circ low
p - 0670 glow plug ctrl circ error
p- 0684 glow plug ctrl mod to pcm circ range/perf
and p-1000 monitor checks not complete.
Should it still start? I am not laying on the starter any longer than 20 seconds or so.
Also, I remember reading a post that someone had some kind of a no start issue and it ended up being his passenger side battery. My passenger side battery is bad (I have it disconnected and a battery charger/starter connected to it. Could that be my entire problem?
I will PM you my cell number. I can pull and install the turbos with my eyes closed now. I just need to learn diagnostics.
Check brake system is a tell tale to your battery woes. Before you start cranking on that thing is the upper fuel filter bowl full?? If not turn the key on and off a bunch of times leaving the key on for twenty seconds or so until the bowl fills. Then put the bowl cover back on and do the key trick another half a dozen times before you try to purge the fuel lines. Also check for an unplugged connection, the glow plug codes bother me.
I will check and try the purge again when I finish supper. I have looked at various plugs that I knew I laid on as I was doing the turbo. can't see anything that sticks out at me. where is the gpcm? I was hoping that low voltage might cause it.
Ty for the link, I found the GPCM. It is still covered with the heat shield. I checked the connectors, looked good. I checked the connector on the lower drivers side of the engine, the connector was plugged in good. I could not unplug it for fear I would damage it. UGH!! I am ready to pull my hair out. I am sure it is something that I have done because I drove it into my shop when I started on my repairs. The only thing I have not put back together is the heat shield on top of the turbo and the bolts that hold the body to the frame. I'm sure this has nothing to do with my problem unless it is grounded through the body or something, which I doubt since it is mounted directly to the engine. Are there any checks I can perform?
I am hoping that is it. I had the charger hooked up on a trickle charge all day Monday and when I got home and opened my shop, I could smell sulfer. The passenger battery was hot as crap and sizzling. That is when I disconnected it. The other one seems fine. I am going to "borrow" a battery from a donor vehicle this evening and see what happens.
I am also not convinced that I have all the air out yet either. I am going to remove the shrader valve tonight and let the pump work it out tonight.
I remember reading somewhere about someone with battery issues and the check brake system message came up and truck wouldn't start. It also through a bunch of other codes as well. My guess on glow plug code would be not enough juice to power the glow plug circuit so it's throwing that code.