Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

     
Old 11-19-2014, 07:06 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
 
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Coolant System Guides
Print Wikipost

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-21-2014, 09:15 AM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 187
VaFordman26 is starting off with a positive reputation.
89 7.3 IDI Water Pump Replacement

Well its time to replace my water pump and i am just looking for a little guidance on the procedure. I have read many other threads but just want to make sure and do it right.

First off, i want go make sure this is a decent water pump. Its Napas brand and is New.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Pump-New/_/R-TFW44018_0258177677

I know i need to rent the fan clutch wrench to get the fan and clutch off and i know the fan is left hand threads. I understand its a lot easier to take it off while all the belts still have tension on them? And then lift the whole assembly (fan/clutch) out together. Also that i should put the same bolts where they came from with some red loktite?

Should I take my radiator out? I know its not that difficult and would make it easier but if i dont need to i would rather not because i have to get the truck running asap to finish a job im working on.

I know another issue is with the top 2 bolt that go in the timing cover. I am a long time user of the cardboard trick where you outline where the bolts need to go and stick then through. I also understand i need to use thread sealer on the top 2 and bottom 2 bolts for the water pump. Should i just seal all the bolts or is that bad? I know i also need to use some gasket maker on the mating surface and gasket of the pump and block.

Im sure im missing some stuff on the thread all help is much appreciated
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-21-2014, 01:01 PM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 187
VaFordman26 is starting off with a positive reputation.
The guy at advance auto said it would be $65 to rent the 1 7/8" clutch wrench for 45 days? Why would i need it that long? Im gonna try carquest and autozone i only need it for a day. Any suggestions
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-21-2014, 01:40 PM
akamacgyver's Avatar
akamacgyver akamacgyver is offline
Clueless spectator!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,450
akamacgyver is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.akamacgyver is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I bought a huge crescent wrench from Harbor Freight that works great for about 15 bucks IIRC

This helps a lot too.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...new-trick.html

Remember the top two bolts by the timing gear are shorter to clear the gear. Make sure you get the right ones in there.

Good luck,

Mac.
__________________


Remember, none of us knows more than all of us!
93 F-250 2WD E40D Bone stock except for a Banks Sidewinder, exhaust and gauges.
94 F-250 S-cab 4WD IDIT E40D SAS w/ shackle reversal & 3" rear blocks, Glowshift gauges, Coolant filter, Trans cooler t-stat.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-21-2014, 02:36 PM
jesse24spd's Avatar
jesse24spd jesse24spd is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 102
jesse24spd is starting off with a positive reputation.
The Advance Auto "rental" should just be a deposit that you get back in full when you return the tool. Basically you pay full price for it in case you decide to keep it. If they try and tell you otherwise talk to a manager. The tool loaner program rules are set by corporate not individual stores.
__________________
1993 F250 7.3 IDI N/A 2WD 9FT Enclosed Utility Body SRW 202,xxx

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-21-2014, 04:04 PM
Johnny L's Avatar
Johnny L Johnny L is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
Posts: 246
Johnny L is starting off with a positive reputation.
I would take all the belts off. Be really careful not to drop the fan and smash your rad fins.
__________________
1988 F350 7.3 IDI N/A Crew Cab 4x4 ZF5 Swap 4.10's 37's
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-21-2014, 08:51 PM
kla94's Avatar
kla94 kla94 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Centerville TN
Posts: 588
kla94 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
The rental I got from autozone was crap. It wouldn't budge my fan clutch,just sprung open. I just used an 1-7/8 wrench. I'm in the process of replacing my water pump also. Got a few things that I have been procrastinating on that I'm gonna take care of.
__________________
94 F-350 7.3IDIT ZF5.Upgrades By NMB2. 1850psi E-codes turbo cal pump, 3" elbow/down pipe, 4"straight exhaust. Quad -pod gauges. Carrier e-pump.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-21-2014, 09:09 PM
Macrobb Macrobb is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 931
Macrobb is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I used a large crescent wrench myself. Make sure your belts are tight(or put pressure on them), then use your wrench to loosen the large nut.
The whole thing will then spin off easily. Just make sure to use some locktite when putting it back on, lest it fall off when you shut the engine off.

(Do note, however: Unless you're hauling, you should be fine driving around *without* any fan. These trucks are surprisingly cool, especially at idle. The thermostat is closed most of the time, unless you're maxing the engine out).
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-21-2014, 09:58 PM
whiteboyslo's Avatar
whiteboyslo whiteboyslo is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Poway, CA
Posts: 1,014
whiteboyslo is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VaFordman26 View Post
The guy at advance auto said it would be $65 to rent the 1 7/8" clutch wrench for 45 days? Why would i need it that long? Im gonna try carquest and autozone i only need it for a day. Any suggestions
Unless Advance works differently from any other parts store I have rented from (or worked for), what he means is that you have 45 days to return the tool and get your money back. It's just a deposit.

I have not replaced my water pump yet, but I have replaced the fan clutch. You do not have to remove the radiator, but if you don't, use some cardboard or something to protect the fins. You will need to separate the fan shroud from the radiator and lay it back against the engine to get the clutch out, so you might as well remove the rad since it's only 4 more bolts and a couple of hose clamps. It would give you a chance to inspect it better, perhaps even reverse flush it with a garden hose.

For the fan clutch, I used a rental tool from O'Reilly. It was a little sloppy, so I wrapped the forks with duct tape. Worked fine after that. They also rent a tool that helps hold the fan in place while you turn the nut, but try the method where you leave the belts on first because using both tools simultaneously is a serious pain.

Mike
__________________
Ol' Blue - 1991 F-250 XLT Lariat Supercab Longbed 2WD IDI w/ Banks Sidewinder. ZF5. 3.55s. 70K original miles!

Looking for a chrome/stainless/polished push bar. If you have one for sale, let me know.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-21-2014, 11:50 PM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 187
VaFordman26 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks for the help everyone. I was out today just kinda doing some prep work for the job because i couldnt get the pump today. I knew there was something strange about what the guy at advance told me. He really didnt make it clear. Anyway i should be able to get it tomorrow.

I was just unhooking a couple things and realized itd be ALOT easier if i just pull the radiator and i might as well flush it anyway. Got everything drained and just ran out of light for today. Will get back at it tomorrow. Im just gonna firstt try and loosen the fan clutch nut with the belts on and the wrench. Hopefully it wont give me to much of a problem
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-22-2014, 11:06 AM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 187
VaFordman26 is starting off with a positive reputation.
So im gonna also do the t-stat while im in here. I know were only supposed to use the correct Motorcraft 190║ one and i had the part number from another thread. Its E5TZ-8575-C. Well i called my local Ford dealer and asked if he knew where i could get one. He told me that was an old part number and that its now a Motorcraft RT1049 and that he could normally find me one but his locater had been down all morning. Well i did some lookong and O'Reilly seems to have the Motorcraft 1049. It says 190║. Is this the right one? I was told only dealers and the internet had them
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-22-2014, 11:39 AM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 187
VaFordman26 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Nevermind about the t-stat i just went ahead and ordered it online. That way i know i got the right one and dont have to drive all across town
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-22-2014, 11:56 AM
Etone Etone is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Or
Posts: 38
Etone is starting off with a positive reputation.
my experience on an 85, 86, and 89 was that the pulleys just turn with with the belts tight. I borrowed a powerbuilt fan clutch wrench master kit from my local auto parts store with a $100 deposit. it has a second tool with 1/2 in sq drive that goes around the four pulley nuts like a big open wrench. the first time i did one was stuck on pretty good, I had someone help me while I held the tool on the pulley with both hands. the other guy tapped the end of the wrench on the fan clutch with a 4 lb hammer till it broke free. I also found its nice to have someone hold the waterpump while you guide everything into place and get the bolts started. rtv on all bolts is fine + a bead that goes around the entire gasket around each bolt hole.
__________________
Ethan

86 f350 6.9 4x4 cc
89 f250 7.3 4x4 extcab
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-22-2014, 04:32 PM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 187
VaFordman26 is starting off with a positive reputation.
So i got the radiator and shroud and everything out today. Glad i did that now i have alot more room to work. I did a good flush with the hose. Im happy to find out that my radiator is "almost" brand new. No seepage or corrosion even in the outlets. The water i flushed out was only green. No nasty brown stuff like ive seen in some others. Replacing the lower hose also.

As far as the bolts for the water pump, should i use the gasket maker on then or loktite? And i should loktite the fan clutch nut? Or the bolts for the fan? Or both?

Thanks for the help everyone
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:56 AM
akamacgyver's Avatar
akamacgyver akamacgyver is offline
Clueless spectator!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,450
akamacgyver is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.akamacgyver is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I have always used RTV on the four bolts that it says to seal. Definitely locktite the threads on the large LHT nut on the fan clutch. There is no reason to do the other four.
__________________


Remember, none of us knows more than all of us!
93 F-250 2WD E40D Bone stock except for a Banks Sidewinder, exhaust and gauges.
94 F-250 S-cab 4WD IDIT E40D SAS w/ shackle reversal & 3" rear blocks, Glowshift gauges, Coolant filter, Trans cooler t-stat.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-23-2014, 04:38 PM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 187
VaFordman26 is starting off with a positive reputation.
So i got the fan clutch kit from advance auto for a $65 deposit. It has the 1 7/8" wrench and the fork looking thing that goes around the bolts on the pulley. It the right size and everything but i am doing this by myself and damn the fan clutch nut is on there tight. I only weigh about 150 lbs so i dont have alot of leverage but i got a buddy coming over to hold the pulley while i turn the wrench. Any suggestions?
Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2014, 04:38 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First time ever replacing a water pump.. help please mozzles Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) 40 08-29-2014 11:53 PM
GUIDE: How to remove the Water Pump in a 1990-1997 4.0L OHV V6 Ford Aerostar Lee Binder Aerostar 5 02-19-2014 03:28 PM
Help me diagnose this thing! ididntdoit99 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 6 08-12-2013 11:39 AM
Re: 97 Ford F150 Cooling Fan and waterpump tigertail222 1997 - 2003 F150 0 02-20-2011 10:27 PM
Can you remove water pump with the fan attached? ErrorS 335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland 9 09-19-2007 11:50 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


Participate In The Forums

Create new posts and participate in discussions. It's free!

Sign Up ╗





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford« is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup