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Wiring nightmare

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Old 04-19-2014, 11:05 PM
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Wiring nightmare

I started diving into the wiring nightmare in my F350. I think it was from centurion but basically every single wire hase an add tap even if it didnt need one. I am trying to clean it up so I have a few questions.

What do these relays do and what are they spliced into(2nd picture)




Also what is this? It appears to be stock but has 3/4 wires cut.



There will be more but this is what I got to today.
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 05:29 AM
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The relays look like they're part of an alarm or remote start, to activate the power door locks. Not sure what the underhood harness is...
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:46 AM
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So that connector is for the door locks?
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:27 AM
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To start with, assuming everything is working, you might want to remove any wires that do not go anywhere. I know that seems obvious, but now you will be able to better visualize and trace the remaining wires. Over the years, (I have an '89 BTW) it is likely that a lot of security and A/V has come and gone, as well as maybe radar detectors, CB radio etc. So If you have a wiring harness with something which was plugged in and is now cut off, you are probably safe to assume that you can follow it back to any where it is tapped in, and remove back to the tap. The pic where your vapor canister is, you can likely remove the loose wire but I'd check to see where that vacuum line goes. And I would guess that those relays are for the door opener from the alarm.
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:26 PM
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The wires near the vapor canister(though it was vacuum?) there is a connector and one wire goes some where, three are cut.

I am trying to remove what is not necessary.

Did some testing and those relays do go to the door locks.
So I have a question, pink with white, pink with orange, black with white[or light blue?] what controls what?
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 05:43 PM
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With a relay, you have 2 circuits; The circuit being controlled,or the load, and the controlling circuit. Think of it as a light switch, the control circuit is like you flipping the switch, and the other circuit is the power from the battery to the load, in this case though, the door lock. If I had to guess, I'd imagine that the smaller gauge wires wrapped around may come from a previous security system, and echo the factory door relays, though I cannot be sure of this. The easiest way to check would be to simply unplug the relays from their sockets and see if the door locks still function properly, with the door switches. If not, the only thing you can get rid of is the set of wires wrapped around.
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil Woolfson
With a relay, you have 2 circuits; The circuit being controlled,or the load, and the controlling circuit. Think of it as a light switch, the control circuit is like you flipping the switch, and the other circuit is the power from the battery to the load, in this case though, the door lock. If I had to guess, I'd imagine that the smaller gauge wires wrapped around may come from a previous security system, and echo the factory door relays, though I cannot be sure of this. The easiest way to check would be to simply unplug the relays from their sockets and see if the door locks still function properly, with the door switches. If not, the only thing you can get rid of is the set of wires wrapped around.
Maybe I worded that poorly, I am asking what ford wire colors:
Pink with white stripe
pink with orange stripe
black with white stripe
red with black stripe

do in relation to the door locks. You are correct that the small wires are for the coil not the contacts.

Also the FSS wire which is red with green stripe, is that the only red with green stripe that comes through the main firewall harness?
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by infinite-foamies
basically every single wire hase an add tap even if it didnt need one.
Oh I hate those scotch taps... I wish they were never invented.
How anybody thought it would be a good idea to invent/use this thing that damages stranded wire is beyond me...

If you're having problems, I'd go thru and remove ALL of the evil scotch taps, seal up the wire insulation where they were hacked in, then troubleshoot any remaining issues while you've got just the factory stuff hooked up. After that, reconnect all the Centurion stuff to a protected distribution block.

I like these too (minus the crimp connector on the end):

Amazon.com: Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit: Automotive
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:40 AM
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I plan to remove the whole interior and do that at some point however I am 350 miles away from home at school and it is my DD so I am limited to what I can do but I'm working on it.

I just run a wire from the battery and use something like this:
Amazon.com: HELLA H84960091 6-Way Lateral Single Fuse Box: Automotive Amazon.com: HELLA H84960091 6-Way Lateral Single Fuse Box: Automotive

My overdrive was power by a wire shoved into the stock fuse block

I had already rewired the main centurion stuff when I added my control panel for the RV power system. I will add pictures when I can.
 
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