There's no reason to shift into 1st unless you're at a standstill anyway. On a T5, 1st gear is between 3.50 - 4.03, compared to 2.76 on yours. If you downshifted into 1st going more than 5 mph it would pitch you thru the windshield.

The engine/trans combination you've got is very desirable. Have you tried shifting without the clutch in OD?

 

I'm not even trying to shift down to 1st, I often grind gears just trying to drop from 3rd to 2nd, and even with rev matching about 50% of the time I grind the gears. I just feel by the time I master shifting this damn tranny I'm going to destroy it and have to replace it anyways. Plus the vacuum overdrive seems to shift at different rpm's depending on how warmed up it is and to me is just a pain. While I appreciate the nostalgia of the three on the tree, I'm definitely looking to upgrade to a 5 speed.

 

Hey XQ, '
We are running the other engine you asked about - 351W.
Anything in the 289/302/351W family fits fine & will make you happy.
We started with a rebuilt short block ($500) & added an Edelbrock top end Kit from Summit Racing ($2000). They had several to choose from - we went the 400HP option. All the belt brackets, etc. were sourced from salvage.

It's a nice cruising engine when paired with an Explorer 8.8 inch rear axle with 3.73 gears. Is it economical? I'm sorry I can't hear you over the side exit exhaust..... It's not bad on the highway.

Looking good over there in California. Good luck.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)

 

Thanks for the reply. I like the idea of going with a top end kit on the slightly smaller 302 block since it is a bit cheaper and will leave me with some cash for a nice new carb. What kind of torque numbers do you think I could pull with a 302 and Edelbrock top end kit with an appropriate carb and exhaust? Are you running stock pistons and rods? Would a properly maintained 302 last as long as a 300 6?

 

I don't understand why he is having trouble shifting down from 3rd to 2nd gear.
It has synchros in it, right? If working it should shift as any other.
I must say I have always liked the 3 sp OD trans. I wish it was still an option.
When I was a young buck and drive many cars and trucks from the 50's and
60's with this trans it shifted great as long as the bushings in the linkage was good.
I just stuff the clutch and shift it down. Even from 3rd to 1st and swap ends
and scare hell out of everyone in the car.
We must be talking about a different tranny. Right?

What am I missing here guys.

The last one I had was in a 78 F150 short bed with a 302. Now that was
a damn fun truck to drive. I would have kept it but for the fact she was
a rust bucket. But that engine and trans combo was super cool. Quick,
Fast and strong. It may have been a 79. Was red and white. And I don't
remember 78 as having any tu tone per say. IDK

All I do know is I love the three on the tree. I would have it in every rig
if it was possible or feasible.

 

Hey XQ
The torque #'s Edelbrock lists for the $1600ish kit - 321hp/337 ft. lbs of torque.
Our 351W is around 400hp/412 ft. lbs of torque & honestly I've never felt comfortable going for it - I think you'd be happy with the 302 package.

We are using case hardened rods but stock pistons. (If you go this route get the hardened rods). I can't speak to the in line 6's durability. I think you would get the best durability from a stock engine vs. high performance.

Good luck over there in California.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Let me first say that although I would consider my grandfather a great mechanic, he definitely wasn't an expert. From what I remember is that he had rebuilt the tranny himself, more than once I believe, and maybe that's why it doesn't shift properly or like it should. I was kinda under the assumption that the problem arises from a little combination of old technology and the fact that it was rebuilt by my gpa who was just following a book. Again please understand this is going to be my only ride and I want to be able to use it like a truck and not something I just take out on the weekends for a little joy ride. So far I'm still leaning towards a 300 - 6, with a T5 or ZF 5 speed manual transmission. I'm also looking to actually throw some bigger tires on it, and not keep it low to the ground like most other 56's.

 

For what you want I think your on the right track. Aint no way to go
wrong with a 300 I6 and 5 speed. I would love a 5 sp in my Bronk.
And if and when I find a donor truck if it has a 300 I6 in it I will also
swap out the 351W for that as well. It's a great combo Bud. Go for it
and never look back. You will love it. And with EFI it can be pretty fuel
friendly as well. She wont win any races but will work way harder than
you can or will. Easy to work on and parts are everywhere like a SBC.
So go for it and git er done Bud.

I would even consider if your donor is a 4X4 to use the transfer case and
Front 4X4 axle as well. Now that would be a very versatile daily driver
my freind.

 

Just to give you an idea, I had a 300/6 in an 81 F250 with a 4 speed manual. I got 12-15,mpg, depending on city/hwy driving on 3.54 gears. As said earlier, it was no speed demon but it got you there.

I have a 289 with a c4 in my current F1. Much more fun to drive and similar mileage (but haven't gone distance on hwy yet), but both are good, reliable engines.

 

Can anyone shed some light on whether or not a 67 ford 9 inch rear will be able to handle the torque of the 300 six? According to F100central the 67 rear end swaps right in for a some extra durability. If not what some other good rear ends that I could swap in to handle the extra power and some larger tires?

 

Seriously??? The Ford 9" is the strongest rear in existence. Stock or modified. It's used in every NASCAR race car, and are the axle of choice in rock climbers, monster trucks, drag racers and tractor pullers alike. They are the basis of rear ends in 10,000 HP Fuel dragsters. Completely stock it can easily handle 700 HP. I honestly doubt you could build a 300 that a stock 9" couldn't handle. There are a few 9" rears that are stronger than others: nodular iron pumpkins, 31 spline axles, but even the cast pumpkins and 28 splines will handle anything you could throw at one on the street. Because of the popularity there are the most extensive ring and pinion ratio sets available for it.
For your reading pleasure:
1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps | Ford Trucks

 

Truck looks nice. I agree with bigger tires and a truck stance!

For ease and cost I would suggest getting a 5 speed from an 80's F150 that is already bolted to a 300 if that is what you want. The 300 can come from some other year if you really want a carburetor.

If changing the engine I would suggest going with Fuel injection, that is just my preference though.

I am not certain on this but I would think there would be more aftermarket support for the 302. Not sure if that is something you may want to consider.

The 300 should be slightly better on gas.

The 9" will be perfect for what you want. If you get a truck one pre 1972 it should bolt right in.

Might be able to sell your existing equipment to help pay for your "new" stuff.

Good luck!

 

Is there a cheap way to install door key locks? Will the $50 kit on midfifty work with the stock parts I already have?