1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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73 SCS Rehab

  #31  
Old 04-19-2014, 01:30 AM
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HOLY TANKS, MAN!!!! that is amazing!!
 
  #32  
Old 04-19-2014, 01:32 AM
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lol you should have heard it
 
  #33  
Old 04-19-2014, 08:06 AM
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holy buckets!!!! glad you are OK!!!

i've never seen anything like that!! WOW!!!

i know you got bigger fish to fry right now, but before i forget i wanted to suggest that you look into a Pertronix Ignitor points eliminator module for your distributor.

they are hands-down the single best upgrade you can do to an old points type ignition.
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx

i would suggest the Ignitor 2 module. it has a couple advantages over the Ignitor 1, mainly variable dwell and an automatic shutoff so it doesn't burn out if you accidentally leave the key on (which is why most of the original ignitors failed back in the day). they are usually about $100. Totally worth the money!

when the time comes, that is ....

I know you
nice to see it run!
keep us posted!
 
  #34  
Old 04-19-2014, 08:42 AM
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Glad you are ok first and foremost. I have never seen anything like that. That's some nice garage wall art there.
 
  #35  
Old 04-19-2014, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bucks77ford
Glad you are ok first and foremost. I have never seen anything like that. That's some nice garage wall art there.
Ya someone was like they may be able to repair that abs I was like hell no that's going on my wall!
 
  #36  
Old 04-19-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by meborder
holy buckets!!!! glad you are OK!!!

i've never seen anything like that!! WOW!!!

i know you got bigger fish to fry right now, but before i forget i wanted to suggest that you look into a Pertronix Ignitor points eliminator module for your distributor.

they are hands-down the single best upgrade you can do to an old points type ignition.
Ignitor II

i would suggest the Ignitor 2 module. it has a couple advantages over the Ignitor 1, mainly variable dwell and an automatic shutoff so it doesn't burn out if you accidentally leave the key on (which is why most of the original ignitors failed back in the day). they are usually about $100. Totally worth the money!

when the time comes, that is ....

I know you
nice to see it run!
keep us posted!
Yes eliminating the points was always the plan, I was just trying to see if this engine would A. Even run at all and B. Do it as cheap as possible. Now that I know it is (or at least was) capable of running I wouldn't mind upgrading ignition, and fuel delivery over stock (ie Holley carb) and obviously a new Radiator! I had plans to purchase one of these. I build race engines and hei hook up is nice just much cleaner, also no coil to go bad.

Essentially the same thing.

At this point I am trying to decide if I pull the engine completely and go through it or replace the radiator and try again as is.... I have a feeling it will get pulled, I would like to tidy the engine bay... I am used to getting engines that look like this and making them look like this... so I have a strong desire to make the engine look pretty.


BEFORE
























AFTER






















 
  #37  
Old 04-19-2014, 05:44 PM
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Glad your ok! Another member here had the same thing happen a few months ago. I'd recommend replacing the thermostat, if the top rad hose wasn't real hot I'll bet it's stuck.

Sam
 
  #38  
Old 04-19-2014, 05:52 PM
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That is 1 of the nastiest gunked up POS chevy motors I have ever seen.And it wasnt long from galling the crankshaft. And slinging at least 1 rod.
 
  #39  
Old 04-19-2014, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gatorfor88
That is 1 of the nastiest gunked up POS chevy motors I have ever seen.And it wasnt long from galling the crankshaft. And slinging at least 1 rod.
Lol I know, it came out of a running corvette and the customer said (seems like it runs fine, just down on power)
 
  #40  
Old 04-19-2014, 07:20 PM
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I also would say a stuck thermostat or a mouse nest plugging things up. Get the coolant to flow properly and I think your engine is just fine.
 
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