ac recharge
#1
#2
Plug and play...you can get everything you need at the local auto parts store. Just hook the r134a to you a/c line and let the refrigerant flow. It will probably take a couple of cans. Stop filling when the temp gets cold. Do not overfill, you can always add a little more, but releasing the coolant is a different issue.
#3
Plug and play...you can get everything you need at the local auto parts store. Just hook the r134a to you a/c line and let the refrigerant flow. It will probably take a couple of cans. Stop filling when the temp gets cold. Do not overfill, you can always add a little more, but releasing the coolant is a different issue.
Spend a little more and get the ones with a gauge, ensuring you are filling to the correct pressure.
Ensure the compressor clutch is turning as the low pressure switch won't allow the compressor to operate without freon.
Pretty straight forward.
#4
This vacuum pump will evacuate the system. This, along with a set of gauges, should confirm that the system has no leaks. Several YouTube videos on how to use it and recharge the system.
I am not AC person, but I used it to recharge my AC system when a rock took out one of my AC lines.
#5
fgtex makes a good point. You MUST evacuate the system before charging! This removes the air (and moisture) that will be in the system. I wonder how the HF pump would work for $17. Tool rental places used to have vacuum pumps for rent. Back in the "old days" (R-12) there was a dryer that usually got replaced when a system was opened.
#6
The HF vac pump does work, noisy and slow but it does work. Also the accumulator the big can looking unit should be replaced as it has a desicant in it and at the age of your truck probably has absorbed its max amount of moisture. As long as the system is opened up replace thw orifice tube, they do wear out and plug up, cheap insurance. Moisture in an A/C system spells death to it, turns to acid, bad juju. Also when you think you have evacuated the system enough, give it another 1/2 hour with the HF pump and make sure you also add the correct oil back to the system.
#7
fgtex makes a good point. You MUST evacuate the system before charging! This removes the air (and moisture) that will be in the system. I wonder how the HF pump would work for $17. Tool rental places used to have vacuum pumps for rent. Back in the "old days" (R-12) there was a dryer that usually got replaced when a system was opened.
Sometimes it's just better to have the right guys services these.
It's another thing to just top off the freon.
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#8
I never heard of evacuating the system before but I have to charge my ac every spring because its warm by the time winter is over then it will last all summer and spring comes...warm again. That's been going on since it was new when my dad bought it and at first Ford was servicing it under warranty trying to find a leak but had no luck. They just said they plugged it in filled it through the port and that was it. I pumped it full of the UV die stuff found it was the seals near the radiator and the mechanic "tightened" them but still i do it every spring but i never do anything special just turn the truck on run the compressor and charge the system never had an issue. It usually takes two full cans of the synthetic Freon stuff to get cold again.
Is that normal to charge a system or is this bad practice i have never heard of this before just read the instructions on the cans lol.
Is that normal to charge a system or is this bad practice i have never heard of this before just read the instructions on the cans lol.
#9
Many years ago I had a truck that would bleed itself out over a 2-4 month period and I would just recharge it (that was when a 5gal jug of R-12 was like $50 and the little cans were $0.97 on sale). It got worse and I tracked down the leak, replaced the condenser and dryer, ran the vacuum pump, charged it and was good to go.
#11
#15
If you open the system for any amount of time (over a few hours) you MUST replace the receiver/drier. It's the canister by the fan housing on the passenger side. There is also an orifice tube up in the line that should be replaced as well. Then you pull a vacuum on the system for at least an hour. It lowers the boiling point of water in the system by lowering atmospheric pressure via the vacuum. It allows the moisture to evaporate. You then leave the system for a time and see if it holds a vacuum. If it does, it means it's not leaking. YAY!
NOW, you add the refrigerant and the proper oil to replace what you lose in the drier. The oil's only purpose is to lubricate the compressor. Not enough, it's toast. Add refrigerant according to size of system. An excursion with rear air will hold more than a reg cab f250. Fill it while vehicle running, AC on max, fan on high.
Compressor will cycle while filling. Now you should have cold air.
NOW, you add the refrigerant and the proper oil to replace what you lose in the drier. The oil's only purpose is to lubricate the compressor. Not enough, it's toast. Add refrigerant according to size of system. An excursion with rear air will hold more than a reg cab f250. Fill it while vehicle running, AC on max, fan on high.
Compressor will cycle while filling. Now you should have cold air.