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  #46  
Old 07-02-2014, 02:35 PM
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Muddy74Ford Muddy74Ford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie View Post
Also the van spindles will work as long as the Kingpins are the same size, it's common for guys to do with 2wd prerunner lifted trucks so they can build "double swinger" steering setups that have equal length tie rods.

Not sure as to which year the van changed the length of the I-beams so you may or may not be able to use those, just measure (which you seem to be good about).
So as far I can see this is true, the 1987 Van I checked out had the same Kingpins as the 1977 2wd I found, the only thing I need to do is get the I beams out and check them out... if the entire beam is the same dimensions then I'm going to swap all of it over since I'll have the steering stop pads on the Van I-Beams. I just haven't had a chance to go play at the Scrap Yards lately or I'd already have my definite answer...

But yeah me and Tape Measures and Dial Calipers get along really well haha.
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  #47  
Old 07-02-2014, 07:04 PM
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So, as I managed to post earlier I managed to grab a 4wd Transmission Crossmember off a 1979 F150 Pickup at the Scrapyard a Week or so ago, just in case any readers don't know which Crossmember came with the Married T-case on the later Fords I'll post a photo down below. I'll have a write-up on mounting this crossmember in the 2wd Frame here shortly...

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"Just for clarification and in my defense, let's just say that both Paint Stripper and Nitroglycerin are both clear liquids..."

"If it ain't broke... you aren't trying hard enough."
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  #48  
Old 07-02-2014, 07:11 PM
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So I decided to commit! I have the 79 4wd Crossmember all bolted in and nice and snug in the Frame now, I took quite a bit of Measurements before I did the deed, and I found a great Center Point to go ahead and do the Mounting... There will be PLENTY of photos down below...

All the Measurements that I did I based off of the back of the Radius Arm Support Crossmember, so if you decide to replicate what I did that's the best Crossmember to center from...

Now first thing is first... I made sure where I was going to Mount my Crossmember was going to center up well in case I ever had to move my Engine Forward or Back on the Frame (at this point it's going to be forward Mounting, due to the Turbo but I have more than enough room to go either way). My Measurments I first made were where the Crossmember started and ended on the inner frame-rail, that measurement (you can see in the photos below) came to 9" to the start (this is front to back) and 17.5" at the end on either side. I then marked this on my frame-rail, marked where the framerail ended on the Crossmember, and then pulled the Crossmember to mark where the Holes were centered for the Crossmember along with the 2 centering Holes left by Ford. I made my Marks long enough that I could see them when I put my Crossmember back in, and measured the centers of the holse to find their depth on the frame would be 1-1/4". I then replaced the Crossmember and found that in the Position I had my first Marks that the Centering Holes left by Ford were both at exactly 13" from the Radius Arm Bracket. So the Crossmember is for sure centered. I then marked and measured the center of the Mounting Holes and found that they were at 10-5/8" and 15-3/8" so I marked those also. (Photos and continuation below)


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I went ahead and drilled my Holes by first using a Small bit to Pilot the Holes where I had center-punched the Frame and then went ahead and Drilled those holes out to 3/8". Not just a shameless plug, but, I've found the best oil to use while drilling through a Frame with a Drill Bit is Kano Areokroil, my neighbor (he works for Peterson CAT) turned me on to the stuff and I'll tell you what it is amazing. Moving on... after drilling everything out and then cleaning I went ahead and fit the Crossmember and checked my center one more time and tightened everything up, so I can cross that part off as done. (Photos below and then one more note below that)


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Now all that I need to do is go ahead and make my own lower Crossmember support Brackets for the Frame because the 2wd Frame seems to have alot more of an angle to it than the 4wd frame (4wd has a squared frame where the Crossmember mounts, if you look back to Page 2 you will see an example of this on my 79 F150 Frame, but this shouldn't be a huge deal and I have quite a bit of 1/4" steel plate to play with. I will need to move the transmission over on the crossmember and use the IDI Transmission Mount instead of the 79 4wd Mount and location like I thought I would be able to get away with though, mostly because it looks like the 4wd Transmission sits quite a bit further over towards the Passenger side (Makes sense having a Transfer Case to get in to one side) and this pulls the yoke too far over and the rear of the engine becomes way to close to the edge of the frame this way. The 4wd 70s Trans mount is also quite a bit taller than the IDI Mount so it brings the Yoke up a little too high to keep my Engine angle correct. So that will all need to be corrected. Below I put photos of where the Crossmember is sitting now on the Frame and where the Transmission needs to sit versus where the Trans Mount is currently... This will be my next hurdle.


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"Just for clarification and in my defense, let's just say that both Paint Stripper and Nitroglycerin are both clear liquids..."

"If it ain't broke... you aren't trying hard enough."

Last edited by Muddy74Ford; 07-22-2014 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Resized Images
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  #49  
Old 07-22-2014, 09:53 PM
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Ok, so not much has been done on the IDI swap, but just to stay updated I've been throwing around Ideas on what I want to do with the Transmission Mount... I didn't want to go and try to adapt the original IDI Trans Mount into the 4WD Crossmember because, quite frankly, I don't think it's going to look right at all, and doesn't give me much adjustment. I can't use the original Plate Mount because I will have fitment issues, so what I am looking at is making myself a new Base Plate that I will be able to adjust foward and back and still manage to retain the Factory Holes in the Crossmember with the addition of 2 more holes. I will then cut the original 2WD Crossmember and weld it to the new plate making something close to the original 4wd type Mount pictured below.

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"Just for clarification and in my defense, let's just say that both Paint Stripper and Nitroglycerin are both clear liquids..."

"If it ain't broke... you aren't trying hard enough."
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  #50  
Old 07-22-2014, 10:38 PM
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Wow, I'm a bit late, but nice score on the turbo! AND a zf5 in the scrap yard. Why can't I have that luck? It's looking good, keep up the nice work.
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  #51  
Old 07-23-2014, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 51fordf5 View Post
Wow, I'm a bit late, but nice score on the turbo! AND a zf5 in the scrap yard. Why can't I have that luck? It's looking good, keep up the nice work.
Thanks! Yeah I've been lagging a bit but it's progressing, I should have more done once my 1/8" and 1/4" plate comes in...

As for the Turbo that was sheer luck... second I saw that truck came in, I closed the Hood, cut the Hood Latch Cable and ran Home to get every tool I'd need, then I spent half the day at the Scrap Yard pulling it out... a few guys were surprised it was even in there... one thing I hated is that I didn't grab the IP. I really needed the fitting on it and it would have been nice to have (I collect IPs and Injectors every time I'm at the Yards). As for the ZF5 I don't know if anyone managed to grab it... I should have gone back for it because I could have sold it and the T-case for twice what I payed for it there... I think the Truck has been crushed by now so hopefully someone got it.

Usually I get to everything when it's already gone, I have no idea how I've been so lucky in this build.... must be a sign or something
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"Just for clarification and in my defense, let's just say that both Paint Stripper and Nitroglycerin are both clear liquids..."

"If it ain't broke... you aren't trying hard enough."
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  #52  
Old 09-23-2014, 04:18 PM
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I bet most everyone figure I haven't been on here forever without an update so I must be giving up... hardly haha. I haven't had much time to work with the build lately, not too much more has gotten done, but I have found a few parts needed and have gotten a few small things done in the past few weeks, including swapping to a whole new set of Motor Mounts, more to come shortly...
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"Just for clarification and in my defense, let's just say that both Paint Stripper and Nitroglycerin are both clear liquids..."

"If it ain't broke... you aren't trying hard enough."
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  #53  
Old 09-23-2014, 04:37 PM
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Glad to hear there's progress. Why the motor mount change and where are the pics?
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  #54  
Old 09-23-2014, 05:35 PM
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IDI Motor Mount Update

So here is an interesting tidbit of Technical Information that I never knew and learned a few weeks ago... apparently the 1980s Van IDI Engine Mounts differ from the Truck Mounts quite a bit, so much in fact that they actually help me fit the 6.9L IDI into Red's 2wd Chassis better than the Truck Mounts, Here's a little bit of comparison I've done below between the two (yes, complete with Measurements, and lots of info below ).

Some Quick Background and then onto the Mounts... So Robert (Bronco78IDI) and I were cruising around the Scrapyard and came across a 1989 Ford Centurion Conversion Van (Pictured below) that had been burned out from the inside (looks like it was a heater fire) but otherwise was pretty nice, so we poked around looking for parts here and there and I popped open the hood and there was a 7.3L IDI under there. Well, Robert and I have been looking for an N/A 7.3L for a bit for his 1979 F350 Chassis Cab Conversion and figured we'd check out the engine and see if it was any good, I had to break the Plastic around the Speedometer to read the Mileage and low and behold the Miles were only 94878 Miles, so wee bet with the fire and all that the engine was in Running Condition and probably just had the fire and that was it (The whole front of the thing was in great shape, no fire damage).

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So we pulled the motor and I pulled everything including the Crossmember Plates from the Rig and take it home, and while we get to tearing into it I noticed that the Engine Mounting plates are way different than any of the Truck Mounts I have ever seen, so I take a set of Truck Mounts to compare and find that not only are the Van Mounts Taller than the Truck Mounts, but they are also more biased towards the front of the Engine, leaving me with a perfect platform to make up for the differences in the 1980s Truck Crossmember and my 2wd 70s Crossmember. It couldn't be more perfect...


So far by my Measure the Driver's Side Mount for the Van is not only a Cast Part (opposed to Steel Plate on the Pickups) but sits out 1-1/2" further out from the Block Mounting than the Truck Mount (3-1/2" on the Truck vs. 5" on the Van), the Offset from the front of the engine is Minimal on the Driver's side (Probably due to the added length of the Mount).

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Now for the Passenger Side Mount, both the Van and Truck Mounts on this side are both Steel Plate, but from there the similarity ends, the Van Mount sticks out 1" farther than the Truck Mount (2" on the Truck vs. 3" on the Van) and then the Van Mount is biased to the Front by 1-3/4" more than the Truck Mounts.


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I'll make sure to update further on the Fitment of these Mounts when I get to finishing the Fabrication of the Perches, so far I'm about 1/2 way done on the Engine Perches and I'm awaiting the arrival of 1/8" Steel plate for me to make my Custom Transmission mount as shown previously. I am also preparing for the Hydraulic Clutch Conversion here soon and already have the Clutch Pedal Mounted... More soon
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"Just for clarification and in my defense, let's just say that both Paint Stripper and Nitroglycerin are both clear liquids..."

"If it ain't broke... you aren't trying hard enough."

Last edited by Muddy74Ford; 09-23-2014 at 05:55 PM. Reason: Photo was not flipped properly because Photobucket sucks ;)
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  #55  
Old 09-23-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie View Post
Glad to hear there's progress. Why the motor mount change and where are the pics?
Just Posted above

I found the Orientation of the Engine worked better with the Van Mounts over the Truck Mounts, that and the Van Mounts will minimize the height of the Perches I will be making to fit the engine to the Chassis.
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"Just for clarification and in my defense, let's just say that both Paint Stripper and Nitroglycerin are both clear liquids..."

"If it ain't broke... you aren't trying hard enough."

Last edited by Muddy74Ford; 09-23-2014 at 05:59 PM. Reason: I suck at typing...
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Old 09-23-2014, 05:49 PM
 
 
 
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