Okay so here's the deal, my 1996 f-250 extended cab single rear wheel drive 5spd(used to have the e4of but made the swap from that piece last year) powerstroke diesel has the infamous freeze plug crack(crack is between the passenger side rear freeze plugs). In order to fix this problem permanently is to get a new block, which isnt easy to replace due to the entire engine teardown and moving the external parts to the new shortblock. Money wise, its less for me to just get a engine that is a drop in to simplify things. Now I havent had any luck finding a 97 ( my desired model), so a local has a 01 7.3 that I am interested in and I would like to know what would have to be done so I can fit this newer model into my 96 body. I know I will need to install the intercooler and run fuel lines down into my tanks to get everything to work. Now I dont know what it takes to do the e-fuel so I need some help with that. Also while im putting in the new engine i'm getting a chip from dp tuner so electronically everything will be sound and im also installing a diamond eye 4" dual exhaust with a two piece downpipe. Will I need a 4" or 3" downpipe for the turbo connection? Shortly after I get the truck running im getting a pyrometer and boost gauges by autometer. Last question my zf5 is a zf542 from a 91idi, I have a zf547 in the garage however it has a cracked bellhousing. Can I use my zf542 case and dump the zf547 gears into it?

 

I can give a little insight on the efuel as I just did mine this last fall. It really isn't that hard especially since your new engine will have all the hardware in place. Running the fuel lines is just securing them onto your frame and removing the old metal lines. Mounting the pump isn't hard either and the wiring is just a relay and an oil pressure switch. There are lots of good write-ups on here from different systems and solutions.

 

Physically, the blocks are the exact same minus the hole in the valley for the mechanical fuel pump. Use your OBS heads; they have the fuel return system and don't require a dedicated regulator. There's a lot of info on electric fuel pump conversions; it's all up to you which one to buy depending on your skill level and how much work you want to put into it.

I doubt you'd be able to squeeze a 4" downpipe into your truck. I suppose it may be possible, but the biggest I've heard of without any problems is the 3".

Just out of curiosity, how much are you paying for the SD block? And does it come as a complete unit? Or just a long block? There's a guy on PSN that regularly has 97 model engines for sale for around $1100-$1500 range.

 

The block im buying is from a wrecked truck that got broadsided on the passenger side from the behind the drivers side door. So far the owner isnt for sure if he scrapped his pump because it might have been trashed in the wreck, with that im expecting to buy a new carter pump and the lines. complete with the intercooler and up pipes for $1400 im going to go ahead and intercool it while im doing the swap.

 

The engine is complete*

 

The front cases on the S42 and S47 trannys are the same. The dual mass flywheel on my 97 crapped out, and when it did it cracked the bell on the S47. I found a used S42 case on Ebay, and swapped it to the S47, along with a bearing kit. While I haven't installed it in a truck yet, I now have a spare tranny.

 

So instead of doing a whole gear swap, I can just remove the bellhousing from the 42 and put it over the gears and rear housing of the 47? That would definitely make things much more simplified. Did you do the switch yourself? Or should I take it to a transmission shop and have them do it?

 

So instead of doing a whole gear swap, I can just remove the bellhousing from the 42 and put it over the gears and rear housing of the 47? That would definitely make things much more simplified. Did you do the switch yourself? If this is an easy job i would like to save cash and do it myself, or would you suggest I take it to a transmission shop and have them do it for me?

 

I swaped the case myself. it was't to hard. Mine was a 4X4 tranny, so I bolted two 2X4s to where the transfer case bolts on, and stood it on the 2X4 runners, unbolted the front case from the rear and lifted the case off. The gears,shafts, and shift rails all stay in the rear case. You should remove the caps that hold the detent *****/springs in place. They are built like miniture soft plugs, and to remove them I had to drill a small hole in them and screw a metal screw and pulled them out.If the detent *****/screws aren't removed, it will take some doing to get the shift rails back in place in the front case. The bearing kit I got had all the pieces for the bearing replacement.

 

There are other differences in the motors, like the 96 has stronger push rods. There are some threads on here that lists all the differences.

 

Yeah im aware of the pmr's. If I have them in this 01, its no biggie im keeping my 96 around so when I get some more money together ill send my single shots to rosewood and swap over my forged rods( thats if I have pmr's). Hopefully I dont!

 

Yeah, I didn't mean push rods but you got the point, LOL

 

Why would you need to change the fuel lines to (or from) the tanks? E-fuel is all downstream of the selector.

 

I can hook up e-fuel using my fuel lines? I had assumed the fuel lines would have different bends to hook up to the fuel pump. I am also curious as to how I can make the system work with duel fuel tanks..

 

Yes, there's some re-plumbing, but again, it's all FORWARD of the selector. So no plumbing required back to the tanks, and dual tanks work by definition.