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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

International doesn't agree with Ford diagnostic, need opinions!

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  #16  
Old 04-07-2014, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt390 View Post
There is a fairly good tester at Harbor Freight that will work for a basic test in a pinch and includes the correct adaptor fitting for the regulator housing.

Called an oil pressure tester kit, works just fine for diesel fuel...

Engine Oil Pressure Test Kit

Specs call for 40+ psi at all times, better to see 45+ psi even during WOT.

Blue Spring kit should push PSI well over 55+

Josh
Thank you, I'll be picking that up tomorrow after I pick her up from the dealer.
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2014, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jayc3169 View Post
Thank you, I'll be picking that up tomorrow after I pick her up from the dealer.

I would get it out of there too


Saw your Video

They were starting to troubleshoot your truck in that Thread

You Need a Gauge Still?????Or you have one??

Autozone has SGII
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  #18  
Old 04-07-2014, 11:35 PM
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I haven't been able to get one yet. I'm still using the bully dog and I've been getting 0275 and 0278 codes while driving even when it warms up. Sometimes one at a time and others they are both at the same time. and still a noticeable miss. Rev-X and oil change actually made it worse! Now it will shut off when cold!
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  #19  
Old 04-08-2014, 10:25 AM
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Fuel pressure was 38 psi I double checked what they want to do the truck: 8 injectors, Fuel pressure regulator (blue spring mod), Filters (even though they were changed 2 weeks ago, and clean my fuel pump assembly. I'm headed to get my truck, I'll probably do it all myself and pay myself $106.74 an hour LOL.
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2014, 10:45 AM
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I too would suggest starting with the blue fuel pressure spring and then looking at the fuel pump.

When the one in the 7.3 croaked, I had plenty of warning, I just wasn't paying attention to the obvious signs.

With the 6.0, it took more pedal to get the truck moving and the throttle response was ridiculously inconsistent.

As soon as the fuel pump was replaced on both, I had a brand new truck again.
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  #21  
Old 04-08-2014, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel View Post
I too would suggest starting with the blue fuel pressure spring and then looking at the fuel pump.

When the one in the 7.3 croaked, I had plenty of warning, I just wasn't paying attention to the obvious signs.

With the 6.0, it took more pedal to get the truck moving and the throttle response was ridiculously inconsistent.

As soon as the fuel pump was replaced on both, I had a brand new truck again.
It's been like this through winter, what are the chance my injectors are shot?
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  #22  
Old 04-08-2014, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jayc3169 View Post
It's been like this through winter, what are the chance my injectors are shot?
I'm no Ford tech, but if the fuel pressure ran too low for long enough it would tear the injectors up.
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2014, 12:30 PM
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The Ford subject matter expert (apparently a legit senior engineering title at Ford) told me 50 PSI minimum at full power. The tester to simulate full power is a manual pressure tester with the gauge on a tee fitting, after the gauge is a ball valve with a .047" orifice to meter the fuel, and hose to send the fuel back into the fuel tank. You idle the engine, open the ball valve so that fuel gets bypassed back to the tank and read the pressure. 36 psi at idle will absolutely kill all 8 injectors or make them read bad. Get the pressure up to 60 psi at idle with the kit and start from there.

Brian
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:16 PM
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So here's an update. Went to pick it up and it won't even start now (would when I dropped it off but won't now) and killed the batteries. Waiting on them to charge now. But the tech said the all injectors were dropping and fuel pressure was slow at 38 psi, the fuel pump needed to be cleaned and a couple of the injectors are sticking open causing compression to get into the fuel (I've done the bubble test and saw no bubbles). All totalling to 9 hours of labor and a $3,791.67 bill and replacing all injectors. I've seen a couple of vid on YouTube about taking out and cleaning the injector spool valves and replacing all the o-rings. Should I replace them all or clean the ones I have?
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2014, 03:51 PM
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Last thing you want is to ruin NEW injectors because of low FP..

ONLY after you have adequate FUEL pressure (FP) you can diagnose the injector health.

Do the upgraded blue spring first, see what FP you get.
IF that restores your FP - great, if not, fuel pump is next.. etc.
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2014, 04:11 PM
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Replace the regulator spring and proceed from there. No need to jump in with both feet if it isn't needed.

Josh
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2014, 07:30 PM
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I assume this is an 03 truck?
If so start with looking at icp based issues. Bad sensors and bad high pressure pumps with low volume output will make the ids think you have bad injectors. Mix that with low fuel pressure its easy to think its a simple injector concern.
I have seen a few truck with 8 bad injectors before but its not common.
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  #28  
Old 04-08-2014, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
I assume this is an 03 truck?
If so start with looking at icp based issues. Bad sensors and bad high pressure pumps with low volume output will make the ids think you have bad injectors. Mix that with low fuel pressure its easy to think its a simple injector concern.
I have seen a few truck with 8 bad injectors before but its not common.
I've changed the ICP already, HPOP went out last summer and was replaced.
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  #29  
Old 04-08-2014, 08:54 PM
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Then do the blue spring, recheck and then we can help give you direction. But you need to do the spring first.
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  #30  
Old 04-08-2014, 10:53 PM
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Jc , and get your self a Gauge ,I know it wont see fuel pressure that would be separate Idem , but it will look at the other things to help you resolve , Take a look at Riff raff diesel product for the Blue spring.
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