It was the G Series as far as I know, $349 plus shipping

 

October 8th... Tic-toc Tic-Toc some more. "We are looking into it" guess they felt nuff said.

 

Sorry for the delayed response, guys. It's tough to keep up with everything sometimes. I've GOT to figure out how to get a day to last longer!

To answer the questions, while I cannot of course for certain say whether I see all of the calls on the DC Power product, my shop has certainly taken two or three (but not more than that, if memory serves). In each of these cases, it was user error.

I have also been contacted by DC Power in one other case when one of my customers called them directly. That, too, was user error.

We started making our own cable kits for a few reasons. The first is that as a business, we are in business to make money. Frankly, there was zero margin in it for us by using the DC Power kits. We were providing product and technical support for it (cable routing questions, general installation questions, etc), of course spending our time to do so, and seeing nothing financially out of it. Time is money.

The second reason was product availability. While DC Power's cables were always of the utmost quality, they weren't always on the shelf and ready to go. Now they will be.

Hope that clears things up!

 

"i can get a cable crimper at harbor freight, for eleventeen dollars, and it
works great!"

a common refrain, heard over and over in online forums, is how you can
do something for almost no money.... you can't. not really. you can buy
something crappy, and maybe it'll work, and mostly it won't.

"it's just a cable, why do they charge so much?"

'cause they are trying to make a living, after buying what they need
in the way of raw materials, and tooling, to produce something for
sale. the equipment to properly make swaged connections is not cheap.

neither are the connectors, unless they are the cheap chinese ones where
the ferrules split when you crimp them.

so, you have to buy the tooling, and then the material, then you have to
pay someone to do the work, then you have to try to sell what is made,
and have some money left over for you.

couple months ago, i had to buy a crimper... the tool, and the three different
sets of dies needed for the work i do, amounted to $7,000... the tool is $4k, and the specific die sets are about $1k each.

that's why the cables cost what they cost.

 

Ed,
What constitutes user error? I'd like to know what not to do to protect my alternator from such a demise. I don't own a DC power alternator, I do own a set of cables.... but if it's possible to hurt the alternator based on something an owner could do, it could happen to a stock one also and the high price of an alternator, DC Power version or not... feel this kind of info could be useful to everybody.

Thanks

 

Excellent question. In nearly all cases it's been people not disconnecting the negatives off of both batteries prior to removing the old alternator. This commonly results in a positive cable shorting to ground if the ends are allowed to touch anything. If that cable is connected to the back stud of the alternator, well, let's just say its not good.

In one case on an HD unit, someone had disconnected their batteries but hooked up the positive cable that belongs on the back stud of the alternator to the grounding block. When they went to reconnect, the sparks flew.

 

Truer words have not been spoken.

 

I don't understand why people think if a high amp alternator is only showing 13 volts it is "bad?" I've installed car stereo for years and monitored voltage on a lot of cars. Things are rated at 14.4 volts but that's a best case scenario. 13 volts is average and is plenty to run all 12 volt accessories. And with one of these massive alternators, the additional amperage required by the same load at 14 vs 13 volts (minor) isn't a factor.

I know if I say then mine will die but the stock alternator is still working great for me. I change batteries every 2 years and I try to keep it on the plug in winter to minimize subfreezing starts but that's about it.

I think sometimes it's easy to go to extremes with things. Not many people need an alternator with over 200 amps. That's extreme duty. My guess is that like a 700 hp engine, a 270 amp alternator is going to be if anything maybe less reliable than a lower rated one.

 

Sheesh...

Placed an order with Mechman September 28th, alternator scheduled to ship out Monday the 13th.

Josh

 

My piece of crap was as low as 12.6 at idle, operating my window would lower that to "oh crap I'm going to screw something up" status.

My stocker, works fine 13's and never drops below 13.4....

In all fairness to DC it did work for almost 2 weeks than after repair I got 4 more days that it was working like its intended to work.

Still tic-toc and no news as of today.

 

Hey there, I posted a message to your user page! Need to get in direct contact with you regarding your alternator. Thanks! Bump!

 

Just sent you my number

 

Got a call from Dave, looks like a bad batch of parts were used in the 320... They will be replacing the unit soon. Glad to see that a principal in the company stepped up to handle this.

 

The squeeky wheel gets the oil don't it?

 

Will see, but that call did make me feel better. I already had written the 1k off as a mistake.